Extension table - design and mounting

I built an extension table on my saw 2 years ago when I purchased it.
However, in the 2 years of use the melamine has chipped fairly badly.
It also was not attached very well and is sagging.

My design used a frame of 1 x 2 (3/4" x 2" real size) with the 3/4" melamine attached to the frame.
The frame also has cross-members about every 12 inches.

Finally, I mounted my router in the table and when the router is mounted the table sags a bit (I have a brace that I use to prop up the table when using the router.

Does this design of a single 3/4" sheet table match what you have done?

I remember reading that some have used 2 sheets of the 3/4" for the table in which case I'm confused.

My rails (that I attached the extension table to" are "L" shaped and the holes to mount the table are 1 1/4" below the surface of the table.

If I use two sheets of 3/4" then the thickness of 1 1/2 inches puts the bottom of the table below the mounting holes.

For those that use the 2 sheets how do you mount your table? :confused:

Thanks,
Jeff

My extension table is made from 3/4" MDF that I added a laminate surface to. I think that even though MDF will sag under it own weight, its much better that the melamine covered chipboard that they sell.

I have a frame under the top of 3" wide MDF on edge with intermediates much like you described. I mount using the same bolts that attach the back 'L' of the fence rails by adding two 'L' brackets. One attaches between the rail and the saw the other to the extension table. They connect together. The back side is supported on braces that run down to the mobile base.

This is the only picture I have, but you can see the distance that I had to drop down below the L for the fence.:
http://thomjoy.us/00006.jpg
The larger table is mounted with three door hinges and the legs fold up so that I can close the garage door:) and is braced underneath like a torsion table.


I believe Rockler sells a kit with a 'U' bracket that slips into a connector on the extension table to make it removable.

I'm curious about the table that people mount to the right of the saw in between the fence rails.
Sorry for the confusion. :o
Jeff

I was looking at this as well--I bought a second hand Unisaw, and the guy who owned it mounted the delta extension so that it wasn't even close to level... It stuck up a good 3/4" on the far end. The factory table was 3/4" particle board faced with linoleum or something slightly slippery. But, the factory table didn't even have any cross bracing, and the frame supports were some cheapo softwood.

I started thinking about designing something more substantial, because I planned to hang a router under it. Then I bought a Bench Dog ProMax cast iron wing to replace the cast iron table extension on the other side and decided to live with the old extension. I did redrill the holes so its level and even, but didn't go too nuts trying to get it perfect, since it is really just a support...

That said, if you really did want to go with two 3/4" pieces of MDF or something, you could build the frame, mark the holes, and--for the lower piece of MDF or ply--cut some access holes for the bolts before you glued/screwed it up. Doubt a series of 1" x 1" cut outs along the side would affect the structural integrity that much.

Good luck.

I was wondering about the reference to the router...:confused:
That's my next shop project although I will not mount a router there, I already built a router table. However, I think my comment about MDF or Plywood versus chipboard is still valid. That stuff just does not hold up. FWIW, I will be using oak 1x4 for the frame and intermediates and MDF or plywood with a laminate for the surface. My fence rails have screw holes about the same distance down that you mentioned.

If I wanted to double up the top, which would be good for a router top, I would probably use cleats on the sides to support/connect the top and notch the lower layer (and cleats?) to allow access to the nuts. If you are putting a router plate in you need to make sure that the intermediates support the weight properly. Again I would suggest hardwood for the frame and intermediates or buying some angle iron to reinforce the long sides and center pieces.

Is it a contractor type saw you have Jeff? I am currently constructing a tablesaw workcenter unit that has a router station in it. I've sent you a PM about it if your interested.

For my extention table (which includes a router lift, woodpeck quick lift) I borrowed a design from a shopnotes magazine that I had. I built an oak frame, 2.5 x 3/4 around the outer edge then braced it with supports front to back. I layed them out in regards to where the lift plate would sit. Two edges of the lift plate rest on those braces and for added measure the for the remaining lift plate edges.

So essentially I have a square frame right under the lift plate with 3/8 of the lift plate sitting over that small square. Then the extention table is capped with 3/4 inch MDF and laminate. Then far end of the table is braced with an adjustable mount. (wood frame with two threaded rods with nuts to allow for level adjustment)

It has been rock solid with no give or flex. If I can I'll shoot some pictures of it tonight.

I have a GI 50-220 with the long rails and their Bies clone.
Attachment 78941
Hopefully in the picture above, taken from behind the saw while I was building a outfeed table which accounts for all the "stuff" on the table, you can see the extension table.
Also, the blue that you can see on the table is a router plate where I can mount the router.
Hopefully the picture shows a pretty beefy rail on the back that I was able to mount the extension to.
Now that it's 2 years later and the table is pretty beat-up I'm wondering if there's a better design.
thanks,
Jeff

I was going to make a new extension table to take my router lift. The melamine surface on the existing table is beat up. I was going to make it a torsion box of 1/2" BB top, bottom, and grid. I was going to edge it with 3/4" thick maple and cover it with a sheet of laminate. I was going to attach it to the side rails with lag bolts. The end will be supported by the cabinet underneath which will sit on the mobile base.

Mike

A single layer with underlying support is how I did mine when I had my cabinet saw. More than sufficient and pretty much the same way that the OEM right-side extension table was constructed.