What depth of cut could I expect using a 8" dado set on a 10" unisaw.
Cost is not my issue but quality of cut is. Which brand would you recomend? I have read the previous threads but it seems no clear winner.
Thank you
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What depth of cut could I expect using a 8" dado set on a 10" unisaw.
Cost is not my issue but quality of cut is. Which brand would you recomend? I have read the previous threads but it seems no clear winner.
Thank you
"Deep" cuts with a dado set on a table saw requires a bit of caution. ;) The larger benefit of the 8" set on a 10" saw is that the tip speed is faster than with a 6" set and that can result in a cleaner cut with a quality setup. The downside is that it requires more power to get it spinning, etc.
To generally see what the approximate maximum depth would be, make a mark on your 10" blade that represents the 8" diameter mark and raise the blade all the way...then back it off just a little. That's your theoretical max depth, but again, I'd caution you about going really deal on a TS unless it's with a sled and the workpiece is securely held in place. Deeper cuts, for things like half-laps are safer on a RAS.
Dar,
I don't know exactly how much above the table an 8" dado set will come on your saw, but I never maxed out my 8" set. Unless you're regularly working with 12 and 16/4 material and need to either half-lap or otherwise cut very deep dados in it, I'd think that size would do.
I'm not sure how much more a 10" set would cost than an 8" one, but if you'll only need the extra capacity every once in a blue moon it might be more economical in the long run to just use a regular blade w/ multiple passes on those occasions.
I have 2 of the Freud sets and have been very happy with them, not cheap, but nothing good is.
good luck,
JeffD
It depends.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dar Lounsbury
It depends on width of cut, the cutter profile, material, feed rate, and of course actual horsepower.
Any variable can change the result.
Of course you can get a Felder with a 15 horspower-80% motor and laugh at all the other variables.
Dar, I don't know about the depth but I second the recommendation for Freud. Everyting that I have that has the Freud name on it has been very high quality and I am very pleased with it. I'd recommend the 8" SD608. Just make sure your arbor is long enough to accept the full set of blades and chippers.
The depth I am looking for is 3/4". I know the 8" will do the more common shallow cuts but am unsure if there is enough blade to go full 3/4. I will do the 10" if necessary but really don't want to tax saw that much. I only have a 3 hp Unisaw and should have bought the 5.
Someone mentioned arbor lenght. I would think all unisaws are alike and the wide set should fit. Or should I measure first to be sure.
Thanks again, Dar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dar Lounsbury
I would think that an 8" set would do just fine for a 3/4" deep dado. The 8" set is probably adequate to do a 3/4" deep dado even if you use a sled for the workpiece, provided that it is not too thick.
Doc
Dar
I'm almost certain the 8" set will cut 3/4" and more, but to be sure raise a 10" blade as high as it will go and measure straight down an inch from a tooth at top dead center; wherever that comes to will be the equivalent of an 8" blade at maximum height.
Almost to simple, I just did not think of that method.
Using this method shows nearly 2" depth of cut with 8" blade. More than enough.
Now I feel really stupid.
Thank you, Dar
We run the Freud Dial-a-width blade, 8", and even when using a 3/4" sled we "could" cut to 1-1/4" depth, or a bit more. However, when cutting deep, take it in a couple of passes as it is easy to have a dado throw wood at you. The dial-a-width works well in terms of speed of set up to a precise width. The extra $50 or so for this option is a good value, at least to us.
I really like my 8" Infinity Dadonator set. It costs $200, but considering that a good regular blade costs more than $50 now, this is not unreasonable. That being said, $200 is approx my threshold for pain on any blade purchase. The cut quality is great. The bottoms are dead flat. There are some visible scoring marks when making multiple passes, but within the width of a single pass, the bottom is perfect. At the corners, there are small "ears" from the tips of outside blades but they are very slight. Any cleaner, and I think you'd have to use a flat top blade or a router. It takes some oomph to get it going. When I use the full stack, my saw trips a 15A breaker, but it's fine on a 20A. The arbor holes are very tight and at first it is tough to get them on and off, esp off. It takes a couple uses to deburr them. I have a 2hp General Int. contractor's saw.
David
I have the Freud 8" (model 508 I think), on a 3hp Unisaw. Plenty of power! I just used it to make 7/8" (max. is 29/32) dados to a depth of 5/8" (three passes) in plywood (2 pieces 23/32" glued together and faced with plastic laminate). It is near perfect in quality of cut. For $50 more, the dial-a-width, would be worth the additional cost. good luck.
John
Forrest makes a nice dado set too. I like mine. Freud is a good set and comes with a better case. I'd like to try that dial a width.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dar Lounsbury
Depth of cut with an 8" dado on a 10" saw should be 1" less than the D.O.C. with a 10" blade.