The tapered blade and the actual wedge act like folding wedges, so that as the force of the plane pushing through the wood pushes the iron back, the wedging action gets tighter. Prevents the iron from sliding backwards (losing its setting) in use.
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Stu, that'd be great. I also would prefer a flat iron if given the choice. To be able to get a nice no nonsense blue steel blade would be an absolute dream. I have one of the Stanley replacements and really like the actual blade, the plane isn't my favorite though.
But having that thickness and no slots involved would be a very nice thing to have available to us.
What's the price point looking like?
this is probably a bit different from what most of you will post. I made this because I really needed a butt mortise plane, and I needed it quick. it 'aint beautiful. I started it with a 5/8 chisel as a cutter, which worked OK, except that it made the thing top heavy and ungainly to use. and the taper of the chisel was backwards, which meant that I had to really slam the wedge in to keep it set, which is probably why it broke. so I fixed it and used a 5/8 plough blade from a multiplane, which is where it is right now. I'll put it to work tomorrow and see how it does.Attachment 225527Attachment 225528Attachment 225529Attachment 225530
Sheesh, a butt mortise plane. There must be planes to make planes.
Bridger, I like it. Just wish I knew how to use it.
So many planes, so little time...........
last few of a quick and dirty woodie butt mortise plane...Attachment 225536Attachment 225537
Stu sign me up for one of those new irons, I need something for a couple of infill's I need to make later this year.
or maybe more..........
Hi Kees,
As mentioned "I'm not entertaining various widths, lengths or other details just now, it's best to just get 'something' available than to have a myriad of options", something more tailored to a particular purpose might be available later after the 'need right now' is addressed in some way.
I also need to be able to show that these kinds of irons are wanted in numbers that make them worthwhile. In order to just get something going, I'm leaving a lot of the details up to the folks making them, depending on what they have available on hand so they don't need to get anything in specially, just bash on what they've got lying about.
I'm thinking that a straight on all sides (no taper), 150mm long and 50mm wide, or close to it. Might be a little wider, a little narrower. Just so long as they're easy and cheap to make so we can get them out there at a nice, competitive price. What that price will be exactly I do not know right now, but I'm willing to trim some niceties to hit that price point if it's needed.
I'll do what I can and see what happens.
Stu.
I've got a slightly off topic question for you. How well does that Stanley chisel sharpen and retain it's edge? I've got a set of three of those that have been my beaters for years and was considering doing some work on them to get them flattened and sharp.
When it comes to hollows and rounds, there are definitely planes to make planes <g>. I can't recall the term used for them, but they are basically negative versions of the hollow or round you want to make. Used for shaping the sole. All of this based on my personal experience....surfing the web and scrounging fairly useless information <g>.
I think they're called mother planes. But i don't have any mother planes, so I'm not sure. (it would be nice to have them!)
I think that'd be the best size to start with. 175x50 might not be bad, either. I'm assuming that everything other than two inches at the cutting edge would be mild steel. I'll get back to you on how long my two commercial 2" wide infill irons are, unless someone else provides the courtesy of doing it earlier.
An iron like that could go in krenov style planes and infill planes, and if it's mild steel or iron backing and the krenov people don't like the length, they can cut it with a hacksaw and file the end decorative of whatever they'd like - something that's not nearly as easy to do with a full thickness fully hardened iron.
Mild steel or iron back would also get the people who hate to sharpen thick irons less trouble.