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Originally Posted by
Noah Wagener
I'll take yous guyses words about not paring the abutments though i do not understand why. I think the chipbreaker is going to be loose when i ever get to this and i would think that paring the bed would exacerbate this and paring the contact portion of the abutments would help.I guess you just bend those dogears on the breaker to remedy this?
Yes, bending the dog ears is one way to handle this.
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Plus the abutments are only contacting the blade near the top. To fix this via paring the bed i'd have to lower the bed angle and it is already at 36 degrees. Is this common with the back of the blade always being worked near the edge? Should the whole back be honed?
You only need to hone the front edge of the back. In fact, it is considered aesthetically unpleasing if you flatten the entire back and cause the flats on the side to widen. I typically hone so that the flat behind the edge is 2-3mm wide. On tough blades, I am happy to get 1mm. Be sure to use a crayon or pencil on the blade so you can see where it is contacting the bed of the dai. You really want to lightly scrape these areas then test the fit again. I am very cautious, and it takes me many fittings (more than 10?) to get an acceptable fit.
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This blade is concave on the bevel side, the larger portion that contacts the bed. Is this normal? The bed is rounded convexly to fit.
Yes, this is normal. The goal in fitting a blade to a dai is to have the blade drop in to the convex area.
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The slope opposite the bed (the wear?) changes directions like a western plane so that it is almost parallel to the bed. I thought this slope was straight and the they laminated a piece of wood on to it to tighten mouths with endgrain being the part that receives wear.
On dai's I have, this area is typically ~80degrees. Having a piece of wood to tighten the mouth is optional and may be added by the dai maker, or by the user after the fact.
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David, i saw your thread on tapping irons. Can chisels be tapped as well? Small chisels. I was thinking of skewing an old chisel for tenon shoulders but i would be in the hollow then and i am not equipped to lap that out. What is the Japanese method for tenon shoulders?I never see skewed chisels. Maybe those saws cut so smoothly or straight chisels are so sharp as to not require skew?
Actually, that thread was on how NOT to tap out a plane iron. I do not use a skew chisel for tenon shoulders. I find my bench chisels adequate, but I guess it depends on the wood. I would not attempt to tap out a small chisel. Just lap the back until a large enough flat area is created. On small chisels, it really does not take that much effort. I use a #220 grit stone or a sigma #400 for heavy removal on the back of blades.