You shouldn’t have to live with it, my 25+yr old FS350 didn’t have snipe on a regular basis nor does my Felder ad941.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacob Mac
Printable View
You shouldn’t have to live with it, my 25+yr old FS350 didn’t have snipe on a regular basis nor does my Felder ad941.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacob Mac
I was taught many years ago that jointers are often set up By FACTORY to be like that. The theory is that user will tolerate that easier thanQuote:
Originally Posted by Drey Ray
a too high outfeed which makes the board “climb” , often not cutting anything at the end of the board. Remember: a tiny nick in knives
will make a perfectly set up jointer “climb” and drive you nuts. Proper realignment will get easier once you understand the problem. Your
outfeed table is too low.
Are you sure the machine is on a flat base? If yes, then someone likely used the tables as a lift point for it to now be out of adjustment if it was OK before the move. First thing I would do is to open and close the tables a couple of times and make sure there is nothing obstructing the tables from closing properly. It doesn't take much, just a chip of wood, to throw one out of closing properly. Assuming that's not the issue then I'd start with your straight edge and check to see if the tables are flat. If they are both flat, or within a few 0.000's" then check to see if the outfeed table is parallel with the cutter head. If it is, I'd be inclined to move the infeed table. If it's not then I'd be more inclined to do all of the adjustments on the outfeed table, because it needs to be adjusted anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Houghton
The tables on mine (older FS-35) are held by a single hinge on the backside that has two machine screws. The front side is held by a single, adjustable machine screw. The only way I know to adjust them is to shim under the hinge. There may be shims under one or both hinges already, done at the factory, so check carefully on the one you want to move. Adjustment isn't rocket science. Loosen the machine screws and place shims under the hinge until both tables are in the same plane. However, getting those machine screws loose can be a real challenge. Mine were installed with some kind of incredible thread locker and I sweated bullets getting them loose for fearing of breaking them. Fortunately, they did come loose. Once the screws are loose, you slip shims under the front, back, or both ends of the hinge until the tables are coplaner when you tighten the screws. Sounds easy, but it's a suck and seek proposition and can be pretty frustrating. Perserverance often is required. You also may need to adjust the height of the screw on the front side of the table.
John
Yeah...I was hoping it was going to be easier than this. The real story is that we dropped the machine in moving it. Total accident but I had to rent a skid steer to get it out of one garage and onto a lift gate...more to that story, but the machine wasn't damaged too badly and still works fine other than the bed adjustment and some plastic parts being broken. I can see how to shim under the hinge and I think that will be a PITA trial and error experience.
Will report back once accomplished!
Jay
So I think this is the block with two cap head bolts in it that you're referencing. They are definitely in there with thread lock. I put some Kroil on it and I'm going to let it soak and then maybe a little heat, but breaking those would be a total disaster.
Wish me luck....
Jay
Attachment 489599
Woah, what's all that other stuff? It almost looks like there might be another way to adjust the table. I'd call MiniMax or the sales guy to find out before going forward.
John
this doesn’t look any different than the fs350 I had either late 80’s or early 90’s. The only adjustments are the bolts on user side of the table and shims under the hinge block which I had to do. Here is a pic of mine.
Attachment 489689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Houghton