I doubt a v-channel is needed if you're not epoxying it in. The epoxy is what creates the air seal. DaveQuote:
Originally Posted by John Kananis
Printable View
I doubt a v-channel is needed if you're not epoxying it in. The epoxy is what creates the air seal. DaveQuote:
Originally Posted by John Kananis
Even better and a great tip - thank you, Dave.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Mount
I'm confused. You said the gouge measures .515 and think a 7/16 (.437) bit will work. Do you mean a 9/16 bit?
Bob, not sure what I was thinking in that particular post. The bit is 17/32. Good catch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Vavricka
+1, I typically cut a v-grooveQuote:
Originally Posted by Dave Mount
IME, the epoxy does a couple of things.
Makes the handle/tool connection "complete" for the entire length and circumference of the connection for an extremely strong hold.
Reduces any vibration caused by an ill fitted connection.
Keeps everything tight in climates where seasonal changes can affect the connection.
Makes the tool easily removable when a change is necessary by simply applying a small amount of heat.
For me, it's just a tiny bit of insurance, I never have to deal with loose or vibrating handles.
JMHO
I'm in the same camp as Edward. My couple of non-epoxied handles have ferrules with 2 set screws.
I looked at a Raffan video making a 1/2 gouge handle and he ground a vee on the back end of the gouge so it would bite into the wood and not rotate. He also said if the gouge loosens you can whack the end of the handle to reseat it. Why bother when a bit of epoxy cures both ills and you don't have to jump through any hoops if your drill bit isn't exact for a tight fit.
In this type of situation, I'm in the camp of, just because others don't use it, doesn't mean you shouldn't.
I know everything years ago was all friction fit and it worked, no doubt about it.
What no one ever says is how much frustration and upkeep it took keeping everything wedged together when the weather/seasons changed. The amount of time one could spend fettling and tweaking all the woodworking tools just to keep them together and in working order is staggering.
I think if our woodworking predecessors had access to epoxy, they would have ditched the pine resin and grabbed some with both hands.
Don't believe me, just take a look at some old hand tools. Not the pretty rehabbed museum pieces, I mean the tar coated, electrical taped, split handled, no handled, mushroomed socketed, worn, split, botched repaired and generally abused relics that are everywhere. Just think if they had epoxy
No time yesterday and I'm jammed with work this week but finished up for the day and hopped on the lathe to make my handle. It was going great until the very end when I tried to peel back the end into a ball with my skew and caught the worst runback. Wrecked the whole spindle. I might not get a chance to get at it again until later in the week but I'll post up when it's done.
I think it's the size of my skew (and the lack of experience of course) that's an issue for me. I have a 1 1/4" that feels too big in my hands when I try and roll it and a 3/4" that mostly works ok but feels way too small. I have a 1" on the way from Thompson and should have it this week but I'll need to make another handle for that one too.
I don’t think size matters so much, more just getting comfortable with it. I started out primarily using a 1 1/4” but over the last couple years have gravitated to a much smaller 1/2”. They both work well, it’s just a matter of practice and comfort.Quote:
Originally Posted by John Kananis
I started out learning the skew by turning a bunch of wands from free branches and scrap wood rather than using nice/purchased wood, that way when I messed up it didn’t cost anything.
Here are a few of the early wands from cedar and untreated 2x4 pine that I turned with a skew….. not the best, but it was great practice. I gave away about 30-40 wands to the kids in my church and neighborhood and became really comfortable with the skew.
Good luck!
Tom
Attachment 516824
Thanks for the encouragement! I'll keep at it and those wands look pretty decent for firsts especially.
Thompson Lathe Tools said the bars are supplied to them (and presumably other tool manufacturers) slightly oversize their entire length. Before beginning the working end of tools, Thompson first mills the handle end of the bar to 1/2" diameter. I have noticed the hendle end of their gouges are slightly smaller diameter, and fit very snugly in a 1/2" drilled hole.
This is nice to know, thanks for passing it along. I have a skew on order from Thompson (obviously not round stock) and I look forward to trying out the steel. I hear everyone rave about it.
My 17/32 made a slightly larger hole than desired in a test piece. I guess I can just fill the gap with epoxy - hoping to get since time tomorrow and finish it, if not then Monday when the skew gets here also. .
Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Stephan
I've never had a 1/2" bar dianeter shank be a loose fit in a 1/2" diameter drilled hole. In fact the handle has to be driven onto the shank, A tapered tang can raise questions what diameters and depths for drill diameters, but again I've had to drive handles onto tapered tangs. One very old tanged tool, perhaps a scraper, can get a slight bit of play n the handle, but a tap or two on the handle tightens the handle on the tang again, never had a problem with it. And not everyone may have a commercial grade heat gun to get an epoxied tool out of a handle. So for me, expoxy is not necessary.
Don, there's zero chance that the gouge is going to fit in a 1/2 inch hole as the shaft diameter is .515. I ordered a 33/64 but that should get here tomorrow. The 17/32 was just way too big.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Stephan