Saw Recommendations - Ripping 8/4 Red Oak

Thanks, James and Bill!

Looks like TGIAG have saw plates, not much as far as hardware to hold the frame saw blades, though.

Bill, Thanks for the advice! I'm glad I'm not the only one looking for self-punishment. I saw one blade made using an old Disston saw plate cut down for a frame saw, but that's a thicker blade. I've actually seen some recommend thicker and thinner blades now. Thin seems like it could flex and break easier. Thick seems sturdier, but requires more effort because it removes more wood in the kerf.

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Originally Posted by Eric Schubert

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Looks like TGIAG have saw plates, not much as far as hardware to hold the frame saw blades, though.

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For the Roubo / resawing frame saw parts: Blackburn Tools and Bad Axe Tool Works have the hardware.
For regular frame saw parts: Blackburn Tools, WoodJoy Tools, and Tools for Working Wood have the hardware.

There may be other ones.

David Weaver setup a Roubo saw for resawing. I used a 4.5tpi Disston when I did it. It’s work but you learn a lot about how saws function.

I still would not discount a large ryoba. The thin kerf is easier to pull through the wood and the position you would typically use it in is easier on the back. The fact that it’s not controllable is frankly crap. Use gravity and the cross cut side to set a level kerf and then go to town. It is a learned skill like any sawyering but it’s not that difficult.

Might look up Tom Fidgen's videos on how he made his frame saw.....and kerf plane....Might be over at the Unplugged Woodworker?

The 48" Blackburn Roubo kit is where it's at. Ripping through 8/4" red oak, I would expect it to cut at about 1" per stroke. I've resawn quite a bit of 6" wide red oak with it and get about 1/2" per stroke. The big saw is not difficult to use -- balance it on the material you're ripping or resawing, and push with your whole body, not your arms.

Thanks, guys!

I blanked on calling the cabinet shop today. Gonna set a reminder to call them in the morning...

Depending on cost at the cabinet shop compared to those Roubo kits, I may just invest in one of the Roubo kits. They'd be handy to have, look good in the shop, and I'd learn something new in the process. I even have some pieces to practice on sitting around the shop that I want to cut anyway. And it's a suitable substitute for a band saw, if at least temporarily until I can afford to buy one.

I checked out those videos from Tom Fidgen. It was fantastic to watch him build his frame saw and kerf plane. Definitely a master of the craft. Thanks for the recommendation, Steven! Gives me some ideas for building a saw...

I have been resawing by hand for about 45 years and I made a veneer saw, 3 teeth per inch, in 1981. However, this kind of work is more dependent on skill and experience than on having just the right equipment. For this reason I recommend you start out with small work like boxes. You could make a box for files or bits. Or if you make a chest for tools make a small one for small squares, marking gauges and the like.

I made a kerf plane around 1983 and used it for a few cuts. For someone with skill I think it is a waste of time. There is a reason that this is not a historical tool.

Is 8/4 red oak really cheaper than just buying 4/4 (and not having to resaw the stuff)? Where I get my wood most species get more expensive the thicker you go and there's a noticeable jump in price for 8/4 red oak vs 4/4. The other thing is, assuming in this case the 8/4 is cheaper, is there any reason the entire drawers need to be red oak? Why not just do the fronts in red oak and the sides in poplar or something easier to work and likely cheaper as well if cost is a concern with this project.

I've done a bit of resawing because my bandsaw is pretty small so I don't bother with it. I use a 26" 4-1/2tpi rip (and wish it were a 3-1/2!!) There is definitely a learning curve. You get faster and screw up less with experience. This might not be the best project for your maiden voyage.

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Originally Posted by Tony Wilkins

I still would not discount a large ryoba. The thin kerf is easier to pull through the wood and the position you would typically use it in is easier on the back. The fact that it’s not controllable is frankly crap. Use gravity and the cross cut side to set a level kerf and then go to town. It is a learned skill like any sawyering but it’s not that difficult.

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Agreed. I resawed a bunch of ~5" wide box parts in hickory, white oak, hard maple, etc. a while back and the Gyokucho 300mm Ryoba (with two-handed grip) was faster, more accurate, and less tiring than a 6 point Disston rip saw. I don't know how it would compare to a 4.5 ppi or coarser hand saw, but the 6 ppi was the best western rip saw I had. I was surprised at how well the Gyokucho cut even in 5" of hickory.

I would recommend a pull saw, but not a ryoba ... the teeth on the back of the saw can grab in the kerf, make a ragged mess of your board if it's pinching OR can cause your saw to stray.

If you're into DIY and want to do it on the cheap ... take a large point full sized rip saw. Take off the handle. Make a handle to attach to the toe. Drill some holes in the sawplate at the toe. Attach your new handle with your drilled holes. VOILA ... pull saw. It works.

I have a nice Disston 5 1/2 point rip saw that will make that cut easily.

It's interesting to see how varied the recommendations are. Pull vs push. Frame vs standard western vs Japanese. Tooth pitch anywhere from 3TPI to 5-1/2TPI.

Warren, that's excellent advice. I planned to use this to make a chest of drawers for storing my tools. It's nothing fancy, just a 2x4 frame with plywood skin and some full-length drawer slides. It doesn't need to be perfect, and I feel it's a good starter project to both help organize my shop and get me making something again. The experience making drawers will be good, as well.

Chris, the red oak is already bought, so I just planned to use that. I considered other species, such as pine or poplar, but want the drawers to stand up to tools that might hit the drawers. Oak was the cheapest I saw at the vendor I visited, so I went with that. Is it cheaper than buying 4/4? Doubtful. Is it less work than trying to glue up multiple pieces for drawer sides? Yep. (Though, I still plan to do that for the taller drawer sides.)

I'm still pretty new to woodworking, so I'm not terribly educated around wood choices for various applications. I figured oak was a pretty basic hardwood to use, and it was the least-expensive hardwood I found. If I should save most of it and go with poplar for drawer sides instead, I can do that. I'd just prefer not to spend more than I already have on materials, if I can avoid it. (And, if it makes sense.)

I also checked with a local lumberyard that has a lot of good, quality product. They typically do commercial projects, but sell plenty to hobbyists and home woodworkers, as well. For 1x3 poplar boards (actual: 3/4" x 2-3/4"), they want $2/ft. If my math is correct, that's over $11/bf! Of course, wider boards are a little less per bf, because there's less cutting involved. But, even 1x6 boards (actual: 3/4" x 5-1/2") are $2.85/ft, which ends up as $8.29/bf. In contrast, I have my red oak, which is 8' (actually about 8'-1" or slightly over) and a true 2" x 9-1/2". Again, if my math serves correctly, that ends up being approximately $5.32/bf.

Here's my math to double-check...

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1905/...3eb3fcb3_z.jpg

I've now checked with multiple places, including a Woodcraft and a couple local woodworking/lumber stores, and only one is willing to do this, so far. Looks like charge is based on time, and is $50/hr. I'm guessing minimum of one hour, possibly more, depending on how long it takes them to cut each strip.

Also, for comparison... Poplar at the local BORG is $12.16 (before tax) for 1x3x8ft. Works out to $9.73/bf. So, not exactly a cost-saving route over the 8/4 oak, unless there's a better place to get it.