We use this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1 It's a rechargeable battery emergency light. We plug it in to a receptacle where one might plug in their electric shaver. During the day, it's off and is charging. At night it puts out an angled down horizontal light. When removed from the charging station you can select it to work as a regular flashlight, or hold it vertically and have it put out a horizontal light. It has selectable bright or dim.
Add another lighting circuit.
That's a fan control so it may or may not work for lighting.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Koepke
I think this is just a double-throw, center off switch with nothing inside to regulate high or low; if so, it assumes you have a high lead and a low lead from your device to select. This wouldn't be the case from a regular light fixture.
I just realized he actually needs a three position switch. I think he needs high low and OFF.
BillD
I like my tiny bulb. A dimmed 10 watt bulb still uses 10 watts, the dimmer or resistor turns a portion of the current into heat. Our tiny bulb is less than 1 watt.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Becker
The switch description and the diagram indicates it is a Single Pole Double Throw with a Center-Off position.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Howatt
Attachment 513853
This is what led me to include an edit (Looking closer) on the possibility of wiring a diode across the outputs of this switch to create a home made two position dimmer switch. Also note this may require a heat sink and some knowledge of electrical workings.
There are multiple ways to do this. However I am reluctant to advise on such things since the end user and environment is unknown to me. An improper installation of such a set up could cause a dangerous situation.
As mentioned earlier this was a method that worked with incandescent lamps years ago. For all I know it would work with todays LED lamps. For my own purposes it would be easy for me to spend about a half hour to gather the parts and set up an experiment in my shop. It would either work, or it wouldn't. My suspicion is different LED lamps would react differently. Some may have internal circuitry that would negate the effect of half wave AC power, others may flicker most annoyingly.
This switch would also be useful if the OP wants to consider two separate lamps controlled by a single switch. If a second wire is easily run to the light fixture, it could have two bulbs of a different wattage, problem solved.
jtk
Jim, that "style" is exactly what I was thinking, though!
With LED bulbs, I'm suspicious that the diode approach might not work, although I love the idea.
Certainly many ways to do this, I was just surprised that there isn't a commercial switch with this option.
For this application...I'd likely use a smart switch with "scenes" that can be addressed by discrete buttons on the faceplate. Of course, that's a bigger commitment and also involves "picking your system" since they are not necessarily compatible across brands. On the advice of a good friend, I've been using YoLink when I need a smart switch application.
The commercial switch with this option lost favor when the adjustable dimmer switch came on the market. Some dimmer switches do not work with LED lamps. Some LED lamps do not work with dimmers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Friedrichs
An LED lamp made to work with a dimmer could possibly work with a simple diode in the circuit.
Like mentioned in an earlier post, if it was my project, a test set up would be built as proof of concept. This would be done using the same lamps as are to be controlled in the finished project.
Another approach, if this were my project, would be to look up > dimmer switch circuit diagram < and build my own unit to a set level to incorporate with a Hi-Lo switch to accomplish the desired result.
There are multi-level switches in ceiling fans that use capacitors to vary the motor speed. That might be another consideration. Though with motors it might be more of how a capacitor acts like a resistor in AC circuits. It could also be due to a capacitor having phase shift characteristics opposite of a motor. One of my college instructors wanted me to stay for his course on motor controls, but I needed to graduate and get a job.
jtk
As Bill posted, a 3 way switch (SPDT) and resistors could be made to work. DIY will likely not pass inspection.
https://electronzap.com/how-to-learn...-and-low-side/
Attachment 513891
My solution was to just add a cheap large LED clock. One with 5 levels of brightness so you can set it to however bright you want and leave it. Also one with a battery so if the power goes out you still have a light. The one I have has a USB C power cable. When the power was out for over a day I used a battery pack to charge a phone to keep it going. I don't mind having a clock in the bathroom so it works well for me.