So...it sounds to me like (even though you live in that "Enchanted land") you're not availing yourself to the "beer, cheese & brats" there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Judson Green
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So...it sounds to me like (even though you live in that "Enchanted land") you're not availing yourself to the "beer, cheese & brats" there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Judson Green
My hand is at 4" across the palm, about 8-3/4" thumb tip to tip of the pinky and 8" from middle finger tip to the edge of the heal at the wrist.
Reading this thread highlights the importance for a person to be able to put a tool in their hands before purchasing. At least when considering their first high dollar tool. Over the years there have been comments on preferences for Veritas' or Lie-Nielsen's handle style on planes and saws.
On old tools one is pretty much stuck with what comes with it. Many of my tool handles have been 'adjusted' to my hand. Most of us know how a Stanley/Bailey plane is going to feel in our grip.
jtk
Oh I've plenty of all but I'm one of the chosen few who can eat and drink not show it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Harold Burrell
Edit: I might get a bit wobbly with too much drink
It also highlights just how adaptable we are. Show of hands (no pun intended) how many here use stock vintage Stanley planes? Stock vintage disston saws?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Koepke
This is interesting. I measured my hand, and it's 3-1/2" just below the fingers. But, when I get gloves, I always have to get the XL gloves; and my hands aren't fat, by any means.
I never have any trouble with Disston saw handles, nor with Stanley planes at 4 and up; but, on my Stanley 10-1/2 bench rabbet, I have to leave my hand open on the tote, letting my fingers run up alongside the blade.
The handles that always confuse me, wandering from hand tools, are the 1950s 1/4" electric drills, which all seem to have handles for people with two fingers.
Hi David,
I am another guy that isn't real big. Width across the web of my hand is 3.5", with a span of 8&3/4". I like Stanley totes and Disston hand saw handles, however.
Regards,
Stew
Indeed hands are all size and shapes. Some female hands can be only 2.75 to 3" across the palm, with fingers as long as a man's hands. My theory is men and women, despite being taller these days with longer fingers/ hands, did not have as robust, more muscular, hands as the old craftsman due to no longer having to adapt to manual labor. We do however for the most part gain weight in our hands with age thereby needing larger gloves, etc. as we grow older. My hands along with my belly seem to have grown out instead of up these last few years. My hair on the other hand just plain decided to go on a diet, became anorexic and disappeared leaving behind a trail of white wanna be s.
Some day I may indeed get to build those hand planes. I won't put a name on them so folks can go crazy trying to figure out the maker. :)
Hey Bill. I noticed the electric drills as well. I have noticed when I would use my electric drills I would support it with mainly two fingers while using my thumb and fore finger up around the body in line with the drill bit for more power and control. So maybe there is something to that. I never really thought about it until now. Hmmmmm quite the quandary.
Mine are just shy of 2.75; I can make just about any tool work for me...but always not for long, comfortably. On saws in particular, the handles dictate the ones I most often use.
When I was a young man, I worked constantly with my hands. They were not only calloused but larger; fingers and hands. After about 30, I only did work around my house and woodworking as a hobby. Over they years, my ring size dropped and I'd bet my glove size dropped as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Bontz
This is quite the interesting thread.
My hands measure:
3.5" across the four knuckles below the fingers (useful for carpentry!)
8" from wrist to tip of middle finger
9" (full stretch) from tip of thumb to tip of pinkie.
David makes this sound like it's perhaps average or so, but in my experience, the only people I meet with larger hands are former football players who are still in a manual labor job, and tall, skinny guys (though their hand width usually is similar to mine)--a small minority. I've always been somewhat athletic, but not necessarily into organized sports, and my profession involves much manual labor (painting). I have excellent grip strength. Someone I often work with is a former football player, and he's impossible to shake hands with--his hands, nay, paws are thick and wide, probably close to 5 inches across the knuckles. Considering that the average height of a male in the U.S. is about 5'10", I figure I'm probably above average in the hand department, too, at 6' even.
Interestingly enough, even though my colleague has larger hands, because of the extra thickness, he prefers using an extension pole for rolling that is thinner than what I like. In other words, if you loosely curl your hand, how big is the "doughnut hole"? Mine is larger than his. This would be another consideration when making tool handles.
When I buy work gloves, I like a snug fit, which almost always means 'large'. However, a few years ago, I bought a box of large nitrile gloves for when I have to stain, and they've almost gotten to the point where I can't use them--they're difficult to put on. Next box will definitely be XL.
At least 4 1/8" across the web of the palm. I'm pretty sure it's 8" or 8 1/2" from tip of pinky to tip of thumb. My palms are actually wider than my fingers are long.
Large/XL gloves usually fit my palms just fine. However, I end up with excess material on the fingers something fierce.
What's funny is where I grew up, I have dainty little hands. Guess there's something to be said for corn-fed country boys.
And 2.75" for a woman? That's a tiny little hand!
It would be useful to have summaries of the various systems used to size tool handles, especially those used at a distance. For instance the system that Lee Valley has for measuring fit for their new planes at shows and in stores is great in that you can physically try and compare a bunch of handles, but when buying from the catalog the only measurement referenced is width across the palm. I dont know if the three sizes and two styles are different in say diameter, but if so it appears to be strictly linear by length- it doesnt appear to be possible to get say the short handle in fatter grip or the longer handle in a smaller grip diameter. LV has to do inventory control, so they need to keep the parts count to a minimum. 6 options of handles is the number they have landed on as manageable and its far more than anything else available at that level of production but for smaller custom makers who need to provide better customization a more sophisticated system is needed.
Handle design varies by more than just hand size. Some tools are used with push forces, some with pull forces, some with twist forces, and the direction of those forces greatly influences handle requirements. Most tools probably use some combination of push pull and twist. some things like feel can't be readily codified and will be greatly influenced by things like surface finish and texture. An interactive tool that could accurately predict an optimized handle shape would be very useful but would likely need quite a bit of back end code.
Handle geometry can be quite complex, but then a rounded stick will still give something to grab onto, too....
For some who are less concerned with aesthetics or comfort a round stick was their replacement for a broken plane tote or saw handle. If you watch the auction sight they show up on occasion.Quote:
Handle geometry can be quite complex, but then a rounded stick will still give something to grab onto, too....
To me, the feel of a tool in my hand is rather important. If it doesn't feel right and can be modified for the better, it will be changed.
jtk
I can only comment on plane handles, but it's my aim for my planes (and the one I'm making for a gorilla handed friend) to be usable without squeezing the handle, and to have the handle not trouble the outside of the pinkie nor the web of the hand.
All of the handles I've made have been about 1 inch wide, which seems universally OK to me. The hump in the handle has to be in the right place, and if someone squeezes their handle when they use it, not my problem. It's more useful to have the fit right, push the handle without squeezing and then lift the plane off of the work surface with the web of your hand without having to put any pressure on your grip.
The one nice thing about a 5" handle is if it's too big, I can steam it back out and make another handle pretty easily. I doubt it will be too big, though. These are the reasons it's nice to make someone something for free than it is to trouble with trying to make things for pay. If the guy who got me into woodworking considers the service poor, he can return the plane for a full refund of $0 :)