I picked up a piece of corian and I will be rebuilding the fence, any recommendations on what screws to use? also how many? 4 or 5?
Printable View
I picked up a piece of corian and I will be rebuilding the fence, any recommendations on what screws to use? also how many? 4 or 5?
Aluminum will flex.
You can do this:
Attachment 308307
Attachment 308308
For more information on what I did go here
i got the piece of corian, I just need to remove plywood fence and attach the corian.
Sorry Cody. We weren't ignoring you ;-) I would use 5 but, I cannot say just why; more fasteners equals less stress per fastener maybe. Corian will flex so you want to get your tube surface shimmed, bond-o'd or whatever to where it is flat before you screw your corian down. I have seen several posts wqhere people have used corian successfully. Do you plan to counterbore the face and attach from the outside by theading into the steel tube?
Corian needs to move. I used to install it and it was never fastened, just set in a bed of silicone. For this reason I am not sure I would bolt it. You may end up with a wavy fence, not sure as I have never tried it for this purpose. I would be more inclined to try bonding it to the fence first with silicone by clamping the fence/Corian sandwich to a known flat surface for a couple of days. If temps in your shop stay constant summer/winter it may not be a problem.
Just a thought....
Let us know how it works out as I have a couple of Biesmeyers that could use a reface and am curious.
I did some research, corian moves 2/32 over 42 inches with a 100 degree change in temperature. assuming center screw is tight, outer screws would each have 1/32 of flex, if I drill slightly oversized holes would this be ok? or will the flex just elongate the holes for me? I did 100 degrees as summer winter variance. it would only move that much over months.
sorry for the duplicate posts above, I couldn't see them being posted... I need to switch to linear view.
Scott, I don't disagree with your comment entirely a 24T WWII rip blade leaves a very acceptable surface with no visible tooth marks. It is a bit rougher than a more refined blade such as the red rip line blades, neither of which in my opinion are joint worthy.
I think it is at least partially the blade, I have a wwII cut everything type blade, it makes nice rips on most stuff, but seems to burn my walnut (freshly sharpened, did the same thing on my old table saw before it was sharpened) the 24t doesn't burn but leaves teeth marks.
Checking side clearance variance
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7032df3xJk
thanks I only have a dial indicator, and the side dial ones are $$ I would have to find a new tip and make some sort of jig to measure it. I think it is mostly the blade, since my wwII cuts with no saw marks
Are you sure that your straight edge is accurate?
I know I'm late to the party but I had a Beise fence on a new Uni that was not flat. As others suggested I was able to get it dialed in perfectly with plastic shim stock. Keep this in mind the Corian may have the same issue.
Mike