Thanks Joshua. I don't have the plane but at this point am just speculating what other uses I might find for it.
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Thanks Joshua. I don't have the plane but at this point am just speculating what other uses I might find for it.
I've used Stanley #45 beading blades in the Small Plow. They are too long to engage the blade adjuster - remove it and adjust the blade manually.
You could also cut down and add slots to old blades ..
Regards from Perth
Derek
Here are a few pics of the Small Plough using a #45 beading blade.
The blade fits well as long as you forego the adjuster (remove it).
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...w/Beading3.jpg
The depth of cut is actually controlled by the skate now (the blade is hollow), and not the depth stop. You will need to set it twice: once for the initial cuts, and then again as the blade needs to go deeper.
Here is the result on an edge (Tasmanian Oak - similar to White Oak but more interlocked) ..
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...w/Beading1.jpg
.. and on the face ..
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...w/Beading2.jpg
Regards from Perth
Derek
Rob
Nice addition to the small pow plane. I like your idea of making one tool more versatile instead of a dedicated tool for each task. Could I ask you to seriously consider making blades for beading detail too? The sizes of 1/8 and 1/4 diameter would be great. Everything is already there for cutting the bead detail as far as fences and depth stops. All we need are the blades.
Ed
When I mentioned the use of the #45 blades to Alf, she had a go as well. Alf noted that the skate was interfering with planing, as I had mentioned but, unlike my successful efforts, she experienced difficulty creating any beads. So it may not be as reasonable as I indicated early. Try it for yourself. You may be happy .. or not.
Regards from Perth
Derek