Rasps - Help Required

Hi!

I have a Nicholson 6" Knife Bastard File. I guess I got mixed up with the terminology and thought "bastard" meant really rough cut but this is a really fine (at least to me anyway) cut tool. I remember my Dad's rasps (really big S.O.Bs. that I guess they don't make anymore, at least not that I can find) and he always told me that "bastard" was the roughest cut, which is what I want.

Do they have a Pattern Makers Cabinet Rasp that is the same shape as this "knife file"?

I searched with google but am not having any luck.

Also, anyone know where I can get the really big wood rasps on-line?

I remember my dad had some that were probably 18" long, 2 to 3" wide and could take your hand off if you weren't careful. Like I said above, I am not sure they even make them anymore.

Thanks,

James :)

I don't know that much about shaping wood as I'm in the middle of my first project requiring such.

I used Microplane brand rasps for heavy stock removal followed by regular mill files and then sandpaper abrasives. Quick working and inexpensive. For traditionally designed rasps, I keep hearing Aurio (sp?) makes the best. Joel sells them as well as Japanwoodworker.com and I'm sure there must be other retailers.

I have severa that used to belong to my Dad but I'm not going to part with them...:D
I goggled Woodworkers rasps and found a whole lot of them. Here is a link to get ya started.

http://www.tools-plus.com/merbcom08.html

Thanks!

About the "knife" one. Do they make a wood knife rasp?

James :)

I have a Nicolson 49 and a 50 they are bigger..

Look in the yellow pages under farrier suppliers. Most of the really big rasps one would see around are still available there. I've got several. That's where I use to pick them up.

18" long and a couple inches wide. Very coarse. When new, wear gloves or wrap the end with tape (I always use cloth-backed tape).

For cabinet work, the Nicholson's mentioned (#49/50) are good (got a bunch). The Aurious are hard to beat for both how much they can take off and the finish they leave behind.

Mike
(the one with a rasp problem <g>)

Thanks!

You brought back a memory too. My Dad used to wrap the end of the rasp with masking tape. Masking tape to him was like duct tape to Red Green. Used it for everything. LOL!

James :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark Singer

I have a Nicolson 49 and a 50 they are bigger..

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Jamestown Distributors occasionally has Nicholson #49 & #50 rasps on sale for less than $30 ea. These are nice rasps and cut stock very fast.

Auriou has a large selection of rasps, from small fine model makers rasps right up to some that remove wood at a scary rate.On the less agressive ones the finish is beautiful. I've been using them for a little over a year now. Before I was using Nicholson 49's and 50's. I thought they were great until I tried the Aurious.

The drawback to them is the price, but you get what you pay for. I have 7 Aurious and don't regret a penny spent. Just think of the difference between a box store smoothing plane and a Veritas or Lie-Nielsen. I would suggest that you talk to Joel about what you want to do with a rasp and he'll suggest which ones you need.

Brent

Will check out the Auriou ones.

Have a link for Joel?

Thanks,

James :)

The following sell Aurious
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/
http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/newtools.htm

Mike

Regardless of where you go with rasps, for a very low cost, you can get rasps "sharpened" by Boggs Tool Service. I sent a farrier's rasp, a cabinetmaker's rasp, my #49, and a number of others, and the improvement is significant.

One other suggestion: get one of the new file handles Lee Valley is selling. It clamps over the end of files and rasps and permits a safe two-handed hold. I've used mine a few times and it really adds to the control you achieve.

I also use microplanes, and the cut is somewhat different. The very small (3/8"??) seems too flimsy to be of much use, but the larger sizes really grow on you.

Tony Z.

In addition to the Nicholson and Auriou rasps mentioned above, I've grown quite fond of this little Japanese
Shinto rasp .

Pam

Thanks Everyone! Much appreciated!

I also found an Italian Knife Rasp at an on-line Canadian retailer in Edmonton called Bedrock Supply. Looks like just the thing for fret work.

James :)

Pam,

When would you use the shinto rasp in favor of of another such as a #49 or #50?

Thanks, Charlie

Hi James,

Please let me/us know how you get on with that rasp. It does look useful--and did I mention I have a rasp problem? <g>

Mike

The Shinto is substantially larger than the Nicholsons, so that's part of it; but it's also a bit coarser, so I'd use it first.

Pam

Hi Pam,

I've always been intrigued by the Shinto...but never plunked down the cash. There's a coarse and fine side, correct? So is the fine side (or fine one, if they're not a combo) still coarser than the #49?

If so, that appeals to me. And I have always thought the extra width would work well for a lot of work. Do you know how they stack up to the Farrier's rasps mentioned as far as cut goes?

And one last Q. How long do they last? I assume they're disposable when used up?

Thank you, Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mike Wenzloff

Hi James,

Please let me/us know how you get on with that rasp. It does look useful--and did I mention I have a rasp problem? <G>

Mike

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Will do.

James :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James Farrow

Will check out the Auriou ones.

Have a link for Joel?

Thanks,

James :)

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James, They are cheaper here.

http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/files_rasps.htm

And now for those predisposed to having too many raspy things:http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...16&cat=51&ap=1

And Rob knows I have a problem ;) ...

Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mike Wenzloff

Hi Pam,

I've always been intrigued by the Shinto...but never plunked down the cash. There's a coarse and fine side, correct? So is the fine side (or fine one, if they're not a combo) still coarser than the #49?

...Do you know how they stack up to the Farrier's rasps mentioned as far as cut goes?

And one last Q. How long do they last? I assume they're disposable when used up?

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The Shinto has a coarse and fine side that you reverse (or rotate, everything's packed up for building the new workshop and I don't remember exactly which). So far, with not very heavy use, it's lasted for a couple or three years. I don't know if Boggs can resharpen the Shinto.

I don't know squat about Farrier's rasps.

As to comparing it to the Nicholson 49, I honestly don't know how to answer that. Given the plane type handles, I can apply a lot more force to the Shinto, tend to use the 49 and 50 more gently. However, there's some crossover, I don't always follow the Shinto with the Nicholsons, don't always use the Shinto to start with, etc. I'm also not one for testing tools exhaustively, so I'm sure there's someone better to ask.

Pam

I have done a lot of wood shaping...lamps. tables, headboards, chair legs.....many projects I have posted here on SMC. I consider te Nichloson 49 and 50 essential tools...I have used them and a good spokeshave, draw knife, gooseneck scraper on most of them....You don't need to start with both....I would start with the #49 , in time you can add the 50. I am thinking of getting a Shinto rasp...but I have not tried one.

Handed? I am new to all things wood, still poking and prodding for information while creating little of use - let alone value, and looked at the Auriou rasp link. It mentioned that they were "handed" - right or left. What would be the difference so far as a rasp is concerned?

This rasp is designed to be pushed in a stroke that is straight, bot with the rasp held at a slight angle. For one who is RH, that means that that handle side would be to the left, and the tip to the right. Reverse that for a lefty. I only know this from a discussion with Joel. I am a righty.

I have a shinto. To me it is for really rough work, even with the fine side.

It looks like hacksaw blades on edge. I like the 49 and 50, Jamestown Distributors has them on sale a lot for about half price.

I can't imagine needing a coarser rasp than a 49. It leaves fairly substantial gouges that have to be removed with finer rasps. I have a very coarse Nicholson half round rasp that really takes off large chunks, but you have to be very careful about grain orientation or you get tearout. I think I'd use a drawknife, spokeshave or bandsaw if I neded really hog off a large amount of wood. I have three progressively finer Arious that I use to smooth the shaping done with the 49. They are very nice rasps but are pricey. For me they will probably be once in a life time purchases.

I don't know if the same system is used for rasps but for files
it goes dead smooth, smooth, second cut, bastard, coarse, and rough for the main six categories.It also depends on the size since a rough cut on a small file may be a second cut on a larger file.Look at the spacing between the teeth that is what counts.

Update - I haven't forgot. Just haven't received them yet. They mailed out the box on Aug.31st. I tracked it today and it was returned due to incomplete addressing. Dang it - they missed something on the box label I guess. I sent an e-mail to the place for them to expect it back and for them to send it again.

It's always something.

James :)

I bought 4 vixen files from here :
http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?a...ry&Category=30

$9 ea, American made and they cut much faster than my 49 and 50 rasps. They are close cousins to plane maker's floats and leave a glass smooth surface. You have to see it to believe it, such a coarse file would leave a nice surface. I bought 4 for shaping wood plane totes, these are indespensible.

Mike

Neat, Mike. Another few tools for the short list...

Mike

Thanks!

Just ordered 3 of those.

James :)

Well I got 1 knife rasp from that Bedrock place. The 6" one. The 8" is out of stock.

Anyway, it looks fine. It's like a rifler rasp, only straight instead of curved (like most rifler rasps I have seen). It's better than the knife file for sure. It's not a bastard cut, but more like a second cut rasp. Looks like it will be fine for fret work. And I can still use the knife file for finishing. Not bad.

James :)