Drill press depth adjustment

I have a drill press that allows you to control the depth with an adjustable screw on the side:

http://mr.porteiro.head.googlepages.com/dp4.jpg

Do drill presses without a screw like that just not have that ability, or is there some other way to set the depth of the hole?

For example, here are some picture of two other drill presses. Does it look like they just don't have that capability?

http://mr.porteiro.head.googlepages.com/dp1.jpghttp://mr.porteiro.head.googlepages.com/dp2.jpghttp://mr.porteiro.head.googlepages.com/dp3.jpg

if you look on your 3rd and 4th pictures, look at where the three handles come out of the drill press, notice how there is metal cylinder between the handles and body of the machine. that should rotate around, and what you do is lower the bit to the right depth, spin that cylinder around, then there is a set screw with a tab on it ( on that cylider) by tightening that, you have set the depth
the attched pic should help

IMO, the depth stop on the walker turner DP is far superior to the rotating collar setup shown on those imports.

I have a ShopSmith in my shop that uses the rotating collar setup, it is accurate to a 1/64" and can be tweaked if needed, works great for me. On the rare occasion that I have a long piece that needs to be bored in the end, I can flip the headstock to the horizontal position and do any length needed, helped a friend with a garden entrance and drilled 3/4" holes in 15' long 6x6 cedar posts. Lots of folks here laugh at the ShopSmith, but it is a very versital tool for many applications, the tablesaw is not one of them. :D

Heather

This can also be done on a lathe. I have a drill chuck with a No.2 Morse taper for lathe. I havent used that technique in over 20 years and forgot all about it.
Thanks Heather for the reminder.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alex Shanku

IMO, the depth stop on the walker turner DP is far superior to the rotating collar setup shown on those imports.

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I agree with you on this, but it isn't just imports. My Delta 17-900 made-in-the-USA has the same rotating collar arrangement. It works okay, but I would rather have the threaded rod type depth stop.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alex Shanku

IMO, the depth stop on the walker turner DP is far superior to the rotating collar setup shown on those imports.

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Not surprisingly the rotating collar on the 1940's Delta works smooth as glass. The same mechanism on my new Delta is a pain. My 1950's DP200 uses the screw and spin-nuts which are tedious but reliable. A good implementation of the old design would be welcome.

Yeah, I had a delta 12" benchtop (import) that used the collar stop setup. I thought it was a pain to use and frustrating.

The 1947 14" delta I have works very nice. The integrated pointer/ruler is awesome, too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alex Shanku

Yeah, I had a delta 12" benchtop (import) that used the collar stop setup. I thought it was a pain to use and frustrating.

The 1947 14" delta I have works very nice. The integrated pointer/ruler is awesome, too.

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I'm with Alex on this one. The old jam nut depth stop with the integrated pointer/ruler is so simple and effective, why mess with anything else? I've used the rotating collar setup on my Shopsmith machine, but much prefer the configuration on my old Delta Rockwell.

We should start a club.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by glenn bradley

We should start a club.

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I agree!

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/IMG_3775.JPG

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/IMG_3777.JPG

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Porter Bassett

Do drill presses without a screw like that just not have that ability, or is there some other way to set the depth of the hole?

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If a DP doesn't have that depth stop, or similar, it won't be in my shop.
Too many uses for it.
They're starting to make them without a quill lock now. Talk about getting cheap.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Myk Rian

They're starting to make them without a quill lock now. Talk about getting cheap.

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i use the quill lock more than the depth stop. It's getting to be difficult to find DPs that have the lock.

On this one I have Up & down stops.
The bronze down stop is set with a set screw, not to loosen.
I have another with a stop that hits the top of the work.
That one can be set to + or - .001". Its advantage: Cares not what the thickness of the work is.

Some guys say they don't need a quill lock. I suspect most of them never had one to know how useful it is. On my skinny belt Craftsman, I added a quick adjust stop collar, backed up by the nut. Newer ones have a quick adjust nut.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alex Shanku

IMO, the depth stop on the walker turner DP is far superior to the rotating collar setup shown on those imports.

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I guess I'm the loan dissenter but I really prefer the turret style depth stop.

I recently bought a Grizzly model G7946 radial drill press. While I like the adjustability of the headstock, etc, I very much dislike the depth stop. you have to lock two nuts together to set the depth, and it is very imprecise. I would like to get a Delta depth stop assembly with locking nuts. It is one round threaded nut and above it a cone shaped upper nut that slides down the stop rod and locks it in place. Does anyone know where I can buy the complete depth stop assembly? I have used this type on a friend's old Delta and I found it easy to adjust and very accurate, but can't seem to find one online. Any help would be appreciated!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rich Bygness

I recently bought a Grizzly model G7946 radial drill press. While I like the adjustability of the headstock, etc, I very much dislike the depth stop. you have to lock two nuts together to set the depth, and it is very imprecise. I would like to get a Delta depth stop assembly with locking nuts. It is one round threaded nut and above it a cone shaped upper nut that slides down the stop rod and locks it in place. Does anyone know where I can buy the complete depth stop assembly? I have used this type on a friend's old Delta and I found it easy to adjust and very accurate, but can't seem to find one online. Any help would be appreciated!

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Instead of two nuts that lock , will a nut with a nylon insert work on the stop

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ray hampton

Instead of two nuts that lock , will a nut with a nylon insert work on the stop

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If you are referring to a lock nut, yes it will work until the nylon/plastic wears out. Those nuts have a finite duty cycle ;-)

re: quill locks

It's funny. Some time ago I complained that nothing comes with a real quill lock anymore, in particular the DP we happened to be talking about. At least not anything less than a big Clausing or something like that. I got a PM from someone saying that they worked for so-and-so a company (a popular woodworking tool company we all know), and the "quill lock" design they use is same kind of mechanism used on Bridgeport mills. Yah, the DEPTH STOP is similar to a Bridgeport, and a million other drill presses for that matter, but it's not a quill lock. Yes, technically you can snug up the nuts on both sides and hold the quill in one position, but a quill lock clamps down on the quill and prevents any movement whatsoever, including vibration. Very useful not just for setup work, but also when running something like a drum sander. Just try and mill something on a Bridgeport just using the depth stop without engaging the actual QUILL LOCK. Good luck. Makes me think that the engineers designing these things have collectively forgotten how to design a decent drill press, hence split heads and quill locks have all but disappeared. Instead, they concentrate on nonsense like part trays, lasers, built in lights and other garbage that has absolutely nothing to do with a functional drill press.

My drill press has the depth stop collar thing on it. I know some people like it, but I find it to be the most incredibly annoying thing to use. Number one, it's on the wrong side of the drill press and it's hard to get to because the spokes are in the way. Just how are you supposed to conveniently set this thing with your arms crossing your body, completely blocking your view of the work and forcing you to contort yourself to avoid the spokes? Then they put this stupid little set screw on it that is again very difficult to get to, and sometimes practically impossible because a spoke just happens to end up in just the wrong place. I find the screw is always getting stuck too. If I tighten it enough that it doesn't move, I have a heck of a time getting it back off. You can't "fine adjust" the design in any way...you have to hold the quill in the exact position with one hand and fumble with the twisty thing with the other hand. The design is an absolute abomination and shows a complete and utter lack of ANY actual drill press design knowledge beyond "Move this turning thingamabobber up and down, and make sure there's at least a couple of lights on it". I don't understand how manufacturers could possibly be so detached from the actual use of their products that they can come up with stuff like this. It would be 10 times better if it were at least on opposite side of the drill press. At least then it would be somewhat ergonomic and comfortable to use, and though I still like the traditional method better then it would just be a matter of my personal taste vs. a terrible design.

It's also interesting to note how many traditional depth stops have the nuts on the same side of the rod. Not only does that mean that you can't hold the quill in the down position at all on newer designs, but you also loose the ability to fine adjust the position by setting the bottom nut and then snugging up the top nut (not a big deal, but convenient and an easy mod if you want). In addition, when you try to lock the jam nut you ALWAYS turn the other nut on the new designs because, you know, that's what happens when you turn one metal thing against another metal thing. You get friction, and it makes it seriously frustrating to do such a simple task as set the depth stop. The older designs were designed for this...a little washer with anti-rotation features between the nuts. The newer ones are just two flat nuts half the time and it doesn't work well. I had a DP like that once and the first thing I did before I even turned it on is I took the mechanism apart and put the nuts where the belong. I really like the design on the new Delta with those quick release nuts. Too bad it's not a split head and has no quill lock...LOL.

It's interesting to note in the OP's pictures that all of the DPs with this stupid rotary depth stop design, even the older one, are also missing a split head and a quill lock. No surprises here.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by John Coloccia

re: quill locks

It's funny. Some time ago I complained that nothing comes with a real quill lock anymore, in particular the DP we happened to be talking about. At least not anything less than a big Clausing or something like that. I got a PM from someone saying that they worked for so-and-so a company (a popular woodworking tool company we all know), and the "quill lock" design they use is same kind of mechanism used on Bridgeport mills. Yah, the DEPTH STOP is similar to a Bridgeport, and a million other drill presses for that matter, but it's not a quill lock. Yes, technically you can snug up the nuts on both sides and hold the quill in one position, but a quill lock clamps down on the quill and prevents any movement whatsoever, including vibration. Very useful not just for setup work, but also when running something like a drum sander. Just try and mill something on a Bridgeport just using the depth stop without engaging the actual QUILL LOCK. Good luck. Makes me think that the engineers designing these things have collectively forgotten how to design a decent drill press, hence split heads and quill locks have all but disappeared. Instead, they concentrate on nonsense like part trays, lasers, built in lights and other garbage that has absolutely nothing to do with a functional drill press.

My drill press has the depth stop collar thing on it. I know some people like it, but I find it to be the most incredibly annoying thing to use. Number one, it's on the wrong side of the drill press and it's hard to get to because the spokes are in the way. Just how are you supposed to conveniently set this thing with your arms crossing your body, completely blocking your view of the work and forcing you to contort yourself to avoid the spokes? Then they put this stupid little set screw on it that is again very difficult to get to, and sometimes practically impossible because a spoke just happens to end up in just the wrong place. I find the screw is always getting stuck too. If I tighten it enough that it doesn't move, I have a heck of a time getting it back off. You can't "fine adjust" the design in any way...you have to hold the quill in the exact position with one hand and fumble with the twisty thing with the other hand. The design is an absolute abomination and shows a complete and utter lack of ANY actual drill press design knowledge beyond "Move this turning thingamabobber up and down, and make sure there's at least a couple of lights on it". I don't understand how manufacturers could possibly be so detached from the actual use of their products that they can come up with stuff like this. It would be 10 times better if it were at least on opposite side of the drill press. At least then it would be somewhat ergonomic and comfortable to use, and though I still like the traditional method better then it would just be a matter of my personal taste vs. a terrible design.

It's also interesting to note how many traditional depth stops have the nuts on the same side of the rod. Not only does that mean that you can't hold the quill in the down position at all on newer designs, but you also loose the ability to fine adjust the position by setting the bottom nut and then snugging up the top nut (not a big deal, but convenient and an easy mod if you want). In addition, when you try to lock the jam nut you ALWAYS turn the other nut on the new designs because, you know, that's what happens when you turn one metal thing against another metal thing. You get friction, and it makes it seriously frustrating to do such a simple task as set the depth stop. The older designs were designed for this...a little washer with anti-rotation features between the nuts. The newer ones are just two flat nuts half the time and it doesn't work well. I had a DP like that once and the first thing I did before I even turned it on is I took the mechanism apart and put the nuts where the belong. I really like the design on the new Delta with those quick release nuts. Too bad it's not a split head and has no quill lock...LOL.

It's interesting to note in the OP's pictures that all of the DPs with this stupid rotary depth stop design, even the older one, are also missing a split head and a quill lock. No surprises here.

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I agree with John and some others who are annoyed with adjusting depth stop by the use of two nuts. If ayone is familiar with the Old Woodworking Machines web site, OWWM.ORG there is an incrediably talented machinist who goes by FRANKS44 who made me a knurled brass bushing that is intended to replace the annoying nuts and can be secured with a thumbscrew or T Bolt. Now instead of fooling around turning two nuts up and down, I can adjust to the desired depth in seconds.

As much as we complain about Craftsman tools, often they seem to try to include features that are innovative or at least needed. That doesn't always work out, but in the case of my DP, it did. I was really skeptical about the skinny v-belt design that allowed 8 speeds with a single belt, but I used it in production for 15 years with only one belt change. They included on the machine a nice chart of belt position/speed along with recommended belt speeds for different drill sizes and materials. They included on the machine a tap thread and corresponding drill size chart. They included a real honest-to-goodness quill lock. The depth stop used a collar with a thumbscrew and a back up nut (which I eventually replaced using a allen head cap screw so i could use a 1/4" tee handle wrench on it). All it was missing was a crank for the table.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ole Anderson

I was really skeptical about the skinny v-belt design that allowed 8 speeds with a single belt, but I used it in production for 15 years with only one belt change.

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Those pulleys look pretty finely machined.

That drill press also has quite a bit of quill travel, doesn't it?

Those are pretty neat drill presses.

I prefer the turret lock.
It is alot quicker and easier than the double nut.

Excuse my ignorance, but could you tell me exactly what a "turret lock" is? I have found on ebay a Depth Stop for Delta Drill Press 1/2"-10 TPI Hole It looks like a pair of nuts I used on a friend's Delta that I liked very much. It seemed very quick to set and kept it's depth very accurately. What I haven't been able to find is a threaded rod that is flat on two sides that I can be sure has the same TPI. If I can find both, I will try to install it on my Grizzly DP. Thanks for the help!

This is the Shopsmith Turret lock. Not a real clear photo but you can preset it or you can run it to the desired depth, lock the quill and then set the depth stop. Although there many who bad mouth the system and I agree the table saw leaves much to be desired it is very good at some other functions as has been previously mentioned.
http://www.shopsmith.com/markvsite/images/router_7.jpg

One advantage to the "turret" lock is that besides controlling how far down the quill will go, you can rotate it around and control how far up the quill will go. There are times when this is very useful. This is very hard to do with the threaded rod stop, and I do have one of each.

My Delta 17-925 (about 8 years old) has a quill lock, the depth stop has a speed nut which helps a lot, variable speed (reeves) with a two speed gearbox, and six inches of travel. Love it. One thing I would like to add is a second nut on the bottom of the stop. The only thing missing is a task light built in like my old Craftsman has.

Brad, maybe you can get a speed nut for yours at McMaster Carr?

Rick Potter

My Wilton has a depth stop that clamps to the graduated depth stop rod: quick, easy, effective and robust.

Attachment 259940



Our Delta at work has the threaded rod configuration. It came stock with the nuts that you have to spin up or down. We quickly replaced those with a "push button" depth stop commonly found on Bridgeport style milling machines (1/2"x20tpi thread). We had to replace the threaded rod to match the thread of the stop, but fortunately it was a simple matter of removing a couple nuts and putting in a piece of threaded rod with the correct pitch.


Another option is a "clamp-on" depth stop which can be handy on those occasions when you don't want the quill to retract all the way since you can put it above or below the piece that the stop "stops" against. Of course both of these types of stops can be found in a range of prices.



Attachment 259933
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Quick-Quill-Stop/G7316



Attachment 259936

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...&PARTPG=INLMK3


Attachment 259937
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Quill-Stop/G9306

I have a very, very old Shopsmith (circa 1954?) I got when I first started woodworking. I got it with the jointer, bandsaw, jigsaw, belt sander, etc. accessories. I had never used it as a drill press, but I can see how it works and it seems to be excellent for setting it as you described. Over the years I have acquired other "dedicated" power tools (jointer, table saw, miter saw, etc.) that the Shopsmith could be used for if I wanted to take the time to change the machine to the use needed. I have been amazed at the precision that each of the accessories seems to be. I still come back to the drill press issue for the Grizzly I recently acquired. I would still like to get the pair of thumb nut with the conical locking nut that slides down over it to lock it in place(you can see the pic on my previous post). I just want to be sure I can find the double flat sided threaded rod needed to make them work. Any recommendations for the best way to redesign my DP depth stop so it is easy to set and accurate when I get the depth where I want it? TIA Rich

Hey Rick,

From the looks of Grizzly's parts list, it may be quite simple to replace the depth stop rod with a plain 'ol piece of 1/2-20 threaded rod, then you could use the Bridgeport style push button or clamp-on depth stop. The push button is very convenient - you depress the button and the stop slides freely for quick adjustment, with the threads engaged you turn the stop for fine adjustment. You may not get a scale in this configuration, but the ease of use and positive repeatability are worth the trade-off.


Attachment 259953

Thanks Kevin.

I called Grizzly Tech Support to see if I could get a push button depth stop for my DP. I had searched their site and they sell a Quick Quill Stop (part #G7316) like you mentioned, but it is size 1/2-20. He said they don't have that stop in the metric size(M12-1.5) and suggested I try Granger. I find it very strange that they have a push button quill stop but not in the metric size that they use on their own DP! I will go ahead and order a push button stop, probably a 1/2-20 and a threaded rod to modify my DP. Is there any particular brand that is better than others?

I just found another thread on this forum that originated by Chris Barnett back in 2009 that had the same issue that I am having. The name of the thread is Grizzly drill press depth stop adjustment nut . It seems that he had exactly the same issue and couldn't find a push button depth stop nut for his Grizzly either. He also wondered why Grizzly would have a part wanted, but not in the size of the depth rod they use on their machines. I still have the same problem he had--there doesn't seem to be enough room to bore out a large enough hole to fit a 1/2" rod, so I am still searching for a workable solution.


Update: I took the original depth rod off, measured the size of the hole area and found I did have enough room to drill a 1/2" hole using a metal boring drill bit. Got some 1/2"X20 threaded rod and ordered the Quick Quill Stop. I'll post a picture when I get it all put together--I am hopeful it performs as advertised. Got an email from Grizzly saying they will have a tech support person call me about my problems with their stop rod and nut locking configuration--should be an interesting conversation.

April 17, 2013 Update: I just received a phone call from a Tech Support person at Grizzly. First, what we have known about the depth stop on their drill presses is accurate: they only use a two nut locking system for setting the depth stop and they still use an M12-1.5 stop rod. They also do not produce or sell a Quick Quill Stop in that size. He did not have an answer for why this is still the case, even when I told him that the woodworking community through forums like this have been trying to deal with this issue since at least as far back as 2009. I informed him that many of us base our purchasing decisions for drill presses with the highest priority being the ease and accuracy of the depth stop. I recommended to him that it would be beneficial to their company to remedy this problem and that they are losing sales because of the inferior quality of their depth stop. He was polite and listened to my concerns, but could only offer apologies for not being able to resolve this problem. I told him that I understand that he is not responsible for this situation, but should consider informing those in the Grizzly company that changing the depth stop configuration to improve their product would be beneficial to their company's sales and reputation. I also indicated to him that if anyone ever asks about purchasing a drill press, that I would strongly recommend that they not purchase a Grizzly. My recommendation would be to buy a 20 year old Delta before considering a Grizzly. All I can do now is hope that the 1/2"X20 rod and Quick Quill Stop I have ordered will resolve the problem.

I have a Steel City drill press with a quick release nut that works really nice. You can press a button to quickly set it close to the desired position, then rotate it slightly to fine tune it to be as accurate as needed.

Steve

On mine, which I believe has Acme threads with flats on each side of the threaded rod, I just set the bit to the depth I want, lock the quill, then slide the stop till it hits, tighten the setscrew with a 1/4" tee handle allen wrench and spin the nut as a backup to the stop.