Delta Rockwell Wood Lathe (left outside for a year)- should I buy?

Hello!

I am completely new to turning (have used other power tools, band saw, table saw, radial arm saw, etc) and was looking at this one wood lathe
(same model as the one pictured, but not the real deal). It has been left out in the elements (Denver, CO) for over a year but looks not too rusty. I can post pics if you are interested sometime soon.

Anyway, it has all of the parts besides a safety shield but it is rather rusty. The electronics cabinet looks to be sealed pretty tightly and the motor is underneath the headstock, so they should be in good condition (hopefully). It also comes with about 6 or so turning chisels and maybe a couple live or dead centers if I ask nicely.

Bottom line, they said it would cost $40 and takes 115V. Nothing wrong in my mind with starting a new hobby, and already have built my own 3D printer.

However, I will probably need to get lessons (recommendations?) and I will also need to move it to my home. Will a pallet jack and a flatbed truck be good enough for that? And can I put it in the garage?

Anyway, here is a photo of the exact same model (same keyed on switch), but not the one I am looking at specifically. Let me know if you want pics.

Attachment 302171

Should I get it? Lots of work to clean up the rusty lathe (and maybe a new paint job) but I have the time and patience. What do you think?

Thanks,
Rob Schwartz

Just found a group of woodturners in Denver... maybe I could get lessons from them :) http://www.frontrangewoodturners.org/

Just me..........maybe not you, but I would let that deal pass! Outside in the elements for a year, will mean not only rust, but pitting on the unprotected areas. :eek: Electronics will draw moisture, even if enclosed, so to me, taking a chance on such an old lathe with that condition.........unless you are one who enjoys doing complete restorations of old iron.....;).....again, just me!

If the bed is not pitted but only lightly rusted I would take a chance on it for $40. There are a lot of folks here who have rebuilt that lathe with very good results. If everything but the frame, spindle, and bed are ruined, you could still convert it to VFD with a new motor. I am not aware of parts availability, but the bearings are bound to be standard size and available. I think it comes down to are you willing to do the work to restore or do you want to get to spinning wood right away.

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Originally Posted by Roger Chandler

Just me..........maybe not you, but I would let that deal pass! Outside in the elements for a year, will mean not only rust, but pitting on the unprotected areas. :eek: Electronics will draw moisture, even if enclosed, so to me, taking a chance on such an old lathe with that condition.........unless you are one who enjoys doing complete restorations of old iron.....;).....again, just me!

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It didn't seem pitted to me, but I'll take a peek at that tomorrow. Thanks for letting me know about the amount of work needed- I will keep that in mind and take a peek at the electronics. I'm guessing starting it right now is not a good idea without disconnecting the belts. Appreciate the advice.

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Originally Posted by Paul Williams

If the bed is not pitted but only lightly rusted I would take a chance on it for $40. There are a lot of folks here who have rebuilt that lathe with very good results. If everything but the frame, spindle, and bed are ruined, you could still convert it to VFD with a new motor. I am not aware of parts availability, but the bearings are bound to be standard size and available. I think it comes down to are you willing to do the work to restore or do you want to get to spinning wood right away.

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VFD? Sorry, not familiar with the lingo here. Does that mean a variable frequency drive? Also, how much would a new motor be if I decided to get one?

Can I look at one of the restoration pages? It would be good to figure out the necessary steps so I don't go it alone. :)

Not worried about turning as of now- I'm willing to invest some time for the reward in the end. It'll be a good learning process too, I'm guessing.

Rob.........if you are willing and able to do restoration and such, then $40 is a great price. If the motor still works, then that is a plus! One can purchase electric motors, sometimes, rebuilt ones at reasonable prices. A new belt and use the pulleys that come with the unit, and away you go. Deep pitting on the cast iron bed ways is a problem. Also check to make sure the quill operates like it should......some older ones are just plain worn out, and finding replacement parts can be a real problem.......our club has one of those, perhaps a little older that we were going to restore, and the members decided it was just in too bad a condition with the quill problems it has, so they opted to purchase a couple of Jet 1221's and are looking at another big lathe for the club.

Also, reeves drive need regular maintenance, so make sure it works well or get a VFD........if you go that route, in my opinion, you would be better off getting a new lathe, because you will have nearly as much in parts and such as you would spend on a fairly good new lathe!

One bonus about the quill is that they have extra quills that they might be able to give me... non-rusted ones too. So that should work out just fine. I think I'll disconnect the belts and inspect the electronics tomorrow. If everything looks good, then I'll test-plug it in (worst case scenario something is messed up and it breaks badly, but that was going to happen anyway).

For $40 I would already have closed the deal. Then I would find out if it was all fixable. It is a wood lathe, not a metal lathe that needs precision a little pitting on the ways wouldn't kill the deal for me, a lot changes the game plan. The Reeves drive might be frozen from gunk, but that should clean up.

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Originally Posted by Rob Schwartz

It didn't seem pitted to me, but I'll take a peek at that tomorrow. Thanks for letting me know about the amount of work needed- I will keep that in mind and take a peek at the electronics. I'm guessing starting it right now is not a good idea without disconnecting the belts. Appreciate the advice.

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Shouldn't be any "electronics"... power switch and a motor. Unless someone has added a digital readout, VFD, or something. As others have said, for $40 bucks, I'd grab it. If you do nothing but sell a couple part off of it, you'll come out ahead!

This opinion is probably worth about 50% of what it costs, but here goes.

First, The gap in the bed at the headstock end is an older concept. Most lathes in this size with some vintage to them have that feature. The idea was that a larger diameter faceplate piece could be turned, and in school shop classes it was common to glue up a platter blank and make a shallow bowl or plate. A bad part of this design is that the gap isn't long enough to allow for use of a chuck to hold the blank and still swing the blank in the gap. Chucks for woodlathes were not used when the gap bed idea was common. Another bad part of the gap bed design is that it prevents the banjo from being used up close to the headstock. This is not a problem for most spindle work, but on short items it can become awkward. Not impossible, just awkward.

Your situation and what you enjoy will dictate what you do. The $40 is really not a consideration, as the scrap value is close to that. From that standpoint, you can't get hurt regardless. If you enjoy or at least don't mind restoration of machines, then the rehab will be the reward for undertaking the project.

If your primary purpose is to get into woodturning, then a lathe that needs to be worked on before it can be used and has a few quirks that make it less than enjoyable to use once in running order, then this lathe may not be a good choice.

I would pass and look for a more modern lathe.

I might consider buying it and dismantal it and sale the parts. Take the profits from the sale of parts and buy a good used lathe.
Curt

I had that same lathe a long time ago and used it for quite a few years. It's a well built lathe with a 12 inch swing over the bed. The gap is only usable for platters. (In those days almost no lathe had a larger swing). My only real problem with the lathe was the reeves drive. Just wasn't well designed. But it worked. It's under powered (I seem to recall a 3/4 hp motor). However, unless you take heavy cuts on a 10 inch bowl that's not a problem.

I turned many hundreds of bowls and a lot of spindles on my Delta before upgrading to a bigger and better lathe.

For a beginners lathe at $40 it's real steal. Grab it. If you spend a few bucks fixing it up you'll have a good lathe for not much money.

You mention taking lessons....Best thing you could do. There is no substitute for hands-on learning. A good teacher will advise you on the tools you'll need to start. Many turners will tell you that you'll need a chuck to start. You don't. IMO it's best to learn with a faceplate and a glue block.

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Originally Posted by Marvin Hasenak

For $40 I would already have closed the deal. Then I would find out if it was all fixable. It is a wood lathe, not a metal lathe that needs precision a little pitting on the ways wouldn't kill the deal for me, a lot changes the game plan. The Reeves drive might be frozen from gunk, but that should clean up.

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I agree. I can't believe all the people that would turn down that lathe for $40. I would have been reaching for my wallet quickly before the guy changes his mind.

It does not look like it has been outside for a year. It must have been covered and protected well.

Steve

For $40 you can't lose. If it turns into too much work you should be able to get more than that at the scrap yard. If you decide to scrap it let me know. I'd be interested in the banjo, tool rest and shaft.

I'll add to what I've already said.....Folks have mentioned weather damage to the electronics. The only electronics on that lathe is the motor. It's a reeves drive which is a device that is used with a lever to change speeds. That has a belt and pulleys.

You mentioned 6 or so tools. They may or may not have value. The lathe was made in the 1970's. That's when I had mine. If the tools came with the lathe they are no doubt carbon steel with not much value. If they were purchased later and are high speed steel they are worth over $200.

If I lived near Denver, you wouldn't have to worry about the rust. I live 1 mile from the Ocean and we have real rust. Nothing has to be perfect on a wood lathe, just safe. You are not machining watch parts. Try turning the drive/motor by hand. Make sure switch box is clean (no wet dust). Plug it in, try switch. I would have had it by now. Good luck with it. It will be an above average learning lathe.

Thanks so much for the advice, everyone. I'll buy it. :)

I'll post some pictures soon as well (the one above is not the real thing, just the same model). I can also show what the tools look like to determine what sort of metal they are made of.

Based on the amazing feedback that I've got here in just a couple hours, I'm very impressed and will be sure to get you all updates soon.

If it turns out to be a bust, I'll get in touch with anyone who is interested in parts.

Thanks again,
Rob

There is a lot more than $40 in parts if you need to part it out or if you have the room , hold on to it for a little bit. You could watch for another that may need some parts you would already have.

Having restored a number of machines I notice one thing that gets underrepresented when the topic of restoration comes up; the knowledge you get from the process. If you enjoy learning and have some knack for mechanical things you may even find it as fun as the woodworking itself. There is nothing like putting machines to work that you truly "own."

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Originally Posted by Doug Ladendorf

Having restored a number of machines I notice one thing that gets underrepresented when the topic of restoration comes up; the knowledge you get from the process. If you enjoy learning and have some knack for mechanical things you may even find it as fun as the woodworking itself. There is nothing like putting machines to work that you truly "own."

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Definitely. After building a RepRap 3D printer from scratch, I have a much greater understanding of the simple things- the benefits of a rigid construction, lubricants, threadlocker... and techniques that I would have never found out if I purchased one. I also have become very attached to it because I do feel like I truly "own" it.

After constructing that and getting it to print parts, I got the confidence in my mechanical abilities to take this project on... lots of great opportunities.

So I got some (blurry) pictures of the lathe itself. I wasn't able to turn it on because I need to find the "on" key. Not sure how to do that yet.

Attachment 302269Attachment 302270Attachment 302271Attachment 302272

I inspected the ways and they are not pitted at all, just rusty, which is great.

I had one big question- in this picture of the same model, there is this round disc piece on the pallet in front of the lathe. Mine does not have that part. Is it important? Does it attach to the headstock? Or can I use a drive center (or safety drive center)?

Attachment 302273

Thanks.

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Originally Posted by Rob Schwartz

...I had one big question- in this picture of the same model, there is this round disc piece on the pallet in front of the lathe. Mine does not have that part. Is it important? Does it attach to the headstock? Or can I use a drive center (or safety drive center)?

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Hard to tell for sure, but that is probably a faceplate. Yes it goes on the headstock spindle and yes you can just use a drive center. Faceplate would be for cross-grain mounting for bowls, platters etc. Most turners now use scroll chucks instead, but the faceplate gives the most secure attachment, and many still advocate its use. Between centers is used for starting a bowl to make the tenon and for general spindle work where the grain runs the length of the bed rather than across it.

From the looks of the tail stock, it is the same. If the speed handle is there it certainly is. The older model has a wheel for changing speeds and more cumbersome to opperate. I turned on on of these for about 12 years. It was a great lathe. Pull the lid off over the pulleys and see if the little notches on the outboard side of the pully are stripped out. This is used for indexing and many used in schools were broken out by engaging the indexing pin with the lath running. Sold mine in the Chicago area for $500 5 years ago.

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Originally Posted by Bob Bergstrom

From the looks of the tail stock, it is the same. If the speed handle is there it certainly is. The older model has a wheel for changing speeds and more cumbersome to opperate. I turned on on of these for about 12 years. It was a great lathe. Pull the lid off over the pulleys and see if the little notches on the outboard side of the pully are stripped out. This is used for indexing and many used in schools were broken out by engaging the indexing pin with the lath running. Sold mine in the Chicago area for $500 5 years ago.

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Good news- they look just fine to me:

Attachment 302287

Thanks for letting me know.

Go ahead and buy it for $40 and sell it to me for $80. Seriously, I would jump on this machine even with a little rust. I have rebuilt older/rusty machinery and will do it again, since these machines are built nicer & heavier than some newer iron. And the price is attractive. You should be able to find a turner in your area to assist in getting this machine going. I am not a turning-only woodworker, but love good heavy machinery just the same.

That should clean up nicely Rob. Google "Kroil" and get some to soak the stuck parts. Get a wire wheel for your angle grinder and bench grinder, and if you can, pick up a finishing Beartex convolute wheel for more metal work.

DO NOT USE SANDPAPER ON THE WAYS, I believe it is 3M that makes some pads, cannot thing of the name right now, maybe someone else can. It works like an abrasive but won't remove metal.

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Originally Posted by Marvin Hasenak

DO NOT USE SANDPAPER ON THE WAYS, I believe it is 3M that makes some pads, cannot thing of the name right now, maybe someone else can. It works like an abrasive but won't remove metal.

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ScotchBrite? +1 I use with WD-40 as a lubricant.

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Originally Posted by Rob Schwartz

Good news- they look just fine to me:


Attachment 302287

Thanks for letting me know.

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That piece a lone is worth over $100 to a restorer. That is going to be a great lathe even if it was a lot more. WD 40 works great for removing rust. Scotch Brite or some mild steel wool. No sand disks or paper. I'm totally jealous.

I believe that spindle is 1" x 8tpi and has MT2 tapers in the headstock and tailstock. All very common and very easy to find faceplates , chucks and other accessories . That is a steal !

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Originally Posted by Bob Bergstrom

That piece a lone is worth over $100 to a restorer. That is going to be a great lathe even if it was a lot more. WD 40 works great for removing rust. Scotch Brite or some mild steel wool. No sand disks or paper. I'm totally jealous.

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Aw thanks :) Looking forward to restoring it.

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Originally Posted by Brian Myers

I believe that spindle is 1" x 8tpi and has MT2 tapers in the headstock and tailstock. All very common and very easy to find faceplates , chucks and other accessories . That is a steal !

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I suppose so! I actually ended up getting a faceplate with the lathe, so it did work out. Thanks for the info.

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Originally Posted by Doug Ladendorf

That should clean up nicely Rob. Google "Kroil" and get some to soak the stuck parts. Get a wire wheel for your angle grinder and bench grinder, and if you can, pick up a finishing Beartex convolute wheel for more metal work.

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Thanks for the tips.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Marvin Hasenak

DO NOT USE SANDPAPER ON THE WAYS, I believe it is 3M that makes some pads, cannot thing of the name right now, maybe someone else can. It works like an abrasive but won't remove metal.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Doug Ladendorf

ScotchBrite? +1 I use with WD-40 as a lubricant.

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I have some of those ScotchBrite pads- I'll try em out tomorrow.

I bought it just a couple hours ago and it is now in my garage (quality pictures here):

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7524/...8f90bc46_s.jpgIMG_4057 by robschwartz22, on Flickr

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8593/...79f9e559_s.jpgIMG_4087 by robschwartz22, on Flickr

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8621/...cf0e3082_s.jpgIMG_4084 by robschwartz22, on Flickr

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7561/...06bb6e92_s.jpgIMG_4077 by robschwartz22, on Flickr

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7490/...8977bdd2_s.jpgIMG_4078 by robschwartz22, on Flickr

I ended up getting all of this stuff (in various conditions) with the lathe from the seller:

• a new (!) safety guard
• 2 safety drive centers
• 1 4-prong drive center
• 1 rusty live center
• 4 different tool rests (see image)
• 1 steady rest
• 1 non-rusty tailstock (now I have 2)
• 12 different chisels (varying degrees of sharpness)
• 1 large faceplate

I immediately also noticed that the front cabinet panel is missing. Not a huge deal, because it's just a piece of metal with vent holes in it. I could most likely fabricate one at some point.

So I began a bit of work today in disassembling and cataloging the pieces (I'm putting all the small parts in plastic bags with a sticky note with the number from the manual). WD-40 has been absolutely essential so far. I've been taking pictures the whole time of the lathe and posting them on an album on Flickr as well.

I managed to get to the point where I could take out lots of screws and parts to get a good idea of how to take apart the spindle (where I'm starting). The gear changer piece is engaged in the gear, which makes the spindle unable to spin. In an effort to remove the pin holding the gear changer part in place, part of it broke off and it is still holding the gear changer part in place. No big deal for now, but I'll think of something.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7579/...8b82c502_s.jpgIMG_4112 by robschwartz22, on Flickr

Otherwise, I need a large wrench to get the nut off the spindle. Everything else is progressing along very well.

The only other thing that I noticed was that the paint job is not doing well. I'm thinking of repainting it once it is ready to be reassembled, but in some flashy color like red. We"ll see :)

I'd agree with going for it. $40 is nothing, and it seems by your comments that about 1/2 of your excitement is in doing the re-building work. Nothing wrong with that. Worst case scenario, sell it to the next guy for what you have into it and upgrade. You really have nothing to loose. Yes...you can get it home on a pallet and flatbed or small trailer, no problem. And yes, setting it up in your garage will be perfect. That is what most of us do. If you are married, you may have to invest in an air compressor if you don't already have one to blow shavings off of yourself before going inside. That is, if you want to stay married.

The reeves drive mechanism probably will just need a a little lubrication. Don't disassemble if not necessary. The hole you show looks like the lock hole. If engaged the spindle does't turn. Don't hit it with a hammer or you'll break the indents. With the belts on, the spindle will be hard to turn over. You can pull the drive belt From the motor shaft and the rest will loosen up. With the belt off put the end of a thin piece of wood on the head stock and put your ear on the other end. You will hear the bearings rolling in the head stock. If they're not too noisy, try leaving the spindle alone. Rustolium paint will make it look like new. The extra tail stock could fetch $150 or more.

Wow, that's a heck of a deal. I am truly jealous!

It looks like some sort of bait and switch. The first picture you showed was a machine in good condition. The later pictures show a machine that really did sit outside for a year. Still a good deal. Congrats and have fun with it.

Steve

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Originally Posted by Steve Peterson

It looks like some sort of bait and switch. The first picture you showed was a machine in good condition. The later pictures show a machine that really did sit outside for a year. Still a good deal. Congrats and have fun with it.

Steve

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Sorry for the confusion there- the lathe in the first pictures was just to represent the model that I was going to get, not the real deal. I knew that it was nothing like the one I was looking at and inspected the rusty one before. Thanks for the tip :)

I want to be baited and switched like that. Where do I sign up?!?!

More pictures here...

Tried out the ScotchBrite and WD-40 and I am thinking about trying steel wool to see if it goes any faster.

Anyway, the ways are getting to be better looking (slowly) and there is smooth, shiny steel underneath.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8661/...f08cb383_s.jpgIMG_4115 by robschwartz22, on Flickr

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7567/...c1afdd18_s.jpgIMG_4120 by robschwartz22, on Flickr

I'll be away for the weekend, so no lathe work. However, I'll have time next week to let you all know what happens. It was very satisfying to see the clean metal underneath the rust today and I can't wait to get the ways all sparkling.