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I'll be doing my own laminate kitchen countertops soon. I have done some simple laminate tops in the past but I would like some advice on how to achieve the best bond and most importantly, getting the edges right.
I'll be doing a square edge and I have noticed on commercial countertops, they seem to have routed the edge very slightly to help keep the top piece and edge piece flush.
Any suggestions on who to do that? Also, does anyone recommend plywood for a substrate instead MDF? Thanks!
I only use MDF.
After I flush trim I hit it with a laminate hand file.
Can you clarify the flush trimming? What kind of bit do you use/ Any special techniques or things to look for? Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Ocel
I use whatever I have on hand.
You can use a flush trim router bit with a bearing or you can use a router bit made just for laminate. Its hard to explain the laminate router bit. You may be able to google it. Borg may have it. Before using it put a little vaseline or candle wax on the area where the trim bit runs to keep from burning the laminate.
There is acouple different kinds of files, I like an aggressive one, but they do take a bit to get used to if your not familiar with them.
Craig
For flush trimming the laminate I would use a bit similar to the Freud #42-109. This bit has a bearing on it to hold it at the proper distance away from the edge so you don't route into your edge piece. One thing to be careful with on these type of bits is that they will tend to pick up your excess glue and build up on the bearing. I will typically coat the bearing with some oil such as pneumatic tool oil and this helps to keep the glue from building up.
For a file to use on your edge they make a laminate file that is made for this type of work. It will have a built in paddle style handle and one side will be rougher than the other. Start with the coarser side and finish with the finer side. One edge will be smooth also so that you can work into a corner and not damage the other edge.
As for what type of material to use for the counter I have never used mdf and my only concern would be that it may be a bit smooth for laminate work and not have enough tooth to bond to. I typically will use high density particle board. Most borgs sell this type of particle board and it will come in sheets that are 49" by 97". This type of material has somewhat finer particles than standard particle board but has a slightly rougher surface than mdf.
Hope this helps
Dave
Thanks for the replies guys! I don't mind picking up a special router bit and files so if you have some specific recommendations, please share them.
I don't know if it will help, but I just got a MicroFence for my router as well, but I suppose the guided router bit will have the same effect perhaps?
I've done the wax trick before which worked well for not burning the laminate, I will try the oil as well.
Any special bonding agents you guys recommend?
Also, I may or may not use an undermount sink, but I am concerned about the challenge of laminating the edges of the sink cutout. Any advice there?
Again, many thanks!
I don't think I'd try an under mount sink on a laminate surface counter top. I just don't think you can seal off the MDF or Particle board well enough and would just be asking for another chance to redo the counter top. :eek: Under mount sinks work best with solid surface or natural stone that is impervious to water. Jim.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim O'Dell
That was my thought as well..... thanks!
I did come across this for mounting undermount sinks in a laminate counter top..... looks interesting.
http://www.counter-seal.com/Home/home/Home
.
Trim Bits" section in the Whiteside catalog, http:///www.whitesiderouterbits.com/catalog.html :cool:
Any suggestions on joining seams? I have an "L" shaped counter top and I'm thinking of doing just a butt joint seam as opposed to 45 degree join in the corner. Any Pros or Cons to this?
I did find this product called Formfill for filling in seams....
http://www.cabinetmart.com/84-formfill.html
.
I use a down cut spiral bit to flush trim, then go back over with a 1/8" round over bit that is only using the lower part of the bit. Don't use the full part of the round over. Doing this means I don't have to use a laminate file. If this is your first attempt at under mount sinks, don't do it...it takes some practice to get it right. I use the good old smelly contact cement and put on 2 coats. Make sure you do it in a well ventilated area or you'll get a nasty headache from the dying brain cells. I use Vaseline to lube the surface of the laminate prior to running any bits across it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Heppeard
Thanks for the details.... and yes, I think I am going to skip the undermount sink on this project.
In the shops I've worked at they've used solid carbide bits along with a coat of paste wax to keep from burning the laminate. Contact cement and bearings don't get along well under daily hard use plus the solid carbide bits are inexpensive compared to a bearing guided bit. The edge you noted may have been from a 7 degree bevel trim solid carbide bit followed by of course, a file. Whiteside and Bosch have solid carbide bits as do others. Might not hurt to mock up a section and try a flush trim, 7 degree bevel or others to be sure you get an edge you're satisfied with. Lastly, I hope I didn't leave the impression that bearing piloted bits are unsuited for trimming laminate, that's far from the case.Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Mitchell
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Mitchell
Craig. Seams are tough sometimes to get the correct fit.
The 2 edges you butt together really need to be cut together with a seam router.
But as long as you can dress up [cut] both edges to be straight, you can accomplish a good seam.
New laminate edges are not straight and smooth. They edges are wavy, so any butt joints have to be recut.
As yes, the seamfill products work. But its made to seal out the water from cleaning the counter tops Its not really made for filling huge seam gaps.