Shop Built RT Fence micro-adjust

It tickled me that the latest issue of ShopNotes had a variation on a gizmo I've been using for awhile. The fence mounted block has a threaded insert and a through-hole. The table mounted piece has an enlarged hole to allow for the angle change when adjusting.

To use, I slide the fence to the position I'm after and tighten the side opposite the gizmo. I tighten down the 'knob end' of the gizmo and use the threaded rod to sneak up on the profile I'm after; tightening the gizmo end of the fence before making a pass. If I need to micro adjust, loosen the gizmo end of the fence, adjust by turning the gizmo knob and re-tighten.

On my fairly basic Rockler router table it makes micro adjusting easier and more repeatable than nudging the fence with my thumb. The threaded shaft backs out and the table piece comes off for storage. The fence mounted piece stays on as it does not interfere with 'normal' fence use. Obviously it isn't used all the time but, it helps me with locking drawer joints. . . I seem to be challenged with that joint.

Glenn,

This is great!

Since I don't subscribe to shop notes currently, thanks for the pictures!

Great idea, great and simple execution.

This is a keeper for whenever I get the chance to build my RT & fence.

-Mike

Glad to share Mike. As an amature I've picked up a lot of great tips, tricks and jigs from this forum and appreciate them alot. Every now and then by accident, I'll come up with something myself. Although, as ShopNotes shows, a lot of clever ideas have been around for awhile. They're just waiting to surface.

Another thing I need to build--and I even have the exact same fence and similar top. One question--do you just leave the other side slightly loose and allow it to pivot around that side?

Great job. I read that article and thought it was pretty cool.

Corey

Good observation Matt. I played with that idea but, I used an existing counter sunk hole in the fence which is in line with the slot of the fence face board. Pivoting would have eventually scarred the track cut into the MDF that Rockler uses.

Instead I opted to make the hole in the 'knob piece' over sized. I only use the micro adjust as such and therefor only move the fence a little bit with it. If I've ever moved it even half an inch as an 'adjustment' it would probably be an exaggeration. Moves that large I accomplish by loosening the 'knob piece' and sliding to the approximate position along with the fence.

The slightly over sized 5/16 hole I use for the 1/4" threaded rod allows enough slop for these small adjustment pivots easily. When you decide on the offset of the 'knob piece' threaded rod hole vs. the RT slot it mounts in, be sure your fence is centered. That's another rub by the way; with this slam-bang gizmo, I did not allow for the aluminum fence plate to be shifted much right or left of center. The face boards however can move anywhere you need them and of course all feather boards, etc. are used as usual.

Matt, P.s. you can't see it in the picture but I also drilled two 7/8" holes in the table at the rear of the slots. This allows me to drop the fence and jig T-bolts in from the top without having to reach underneath to slip the fence adjustment bolts through everytime I install the fence. I recommend this for any Rockler table that is a TS extension type. I tried speed knobs first which was better than stock but the holes are much easier.

Matt, I realize on re-reading your question that I answered something completely different. Your real question "do you just leave the other side slightly loose and allow it to pivot around that side?" My real answer "Yes, I lock one side, leave the micro-adjust side of the fence loose, adjust and then lock it down before cutting".