Elmers Wood Glue Max

Bought a couple bottles last night for this butcher block lamination. Thought it might give me a little more working time than the Titebond 2 I usually use. Some observations-
* The Elmers is far more grainy than the TB2. It reminds me of buckwheat pancake batter. The TB2 is smooth and seems to have no particles in it.
* The Elmer's needs an hour in the clamps, compared to TB2 at 30 mins.
* I just noticed the Elmers claims to be waterproof. TB2 isn't. (I think TB3 is waterproof though.)
* The Elmers is harder to clean off the wood than the TB2 - it seems to set up more quickly and then sticks like the devil. Plus it's thicker/grainier.

Too early to tell whether I like the Elmers. Thought I'd share what I'm seeing though, FWIW.
Fred

It's real easy for those tops to open a bit no matter what glue is used. I think it's mostly "compression ring set" from water and not any fault of the glue. How thick is the top going to be? And what configuration?

Top will be 3 1/4 thick. It's long grain, rather than end grain. I used a 1/2" roundover bit all the way around on the pine mockup. Plan to order a new (very sharp) one to do the maple.

So far, the tops are tight. :D

I bought a bottle of the Elmer's Glue Max a couple of years ago. I found it grainy, as you said, and far too thick. I use it when installing molding now, and for nothing else. TB II and TB III are far better all around glues IMO.

John

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Originally Posted by John TenEyck

I bought a bottle of the Elmer's Glue Max a couple of years ago. I found it grainy, as you said, and far too thick. I use it when installing molding now, and for nothing else. TB II and TB III are far better all around glues IMO.

John

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I hear ya John. I did find two tricks that work well with it. First, I switched from using an old gift card to spread the glue, to using a rubber roller. That thick glue really rolls out nice. The second trick is one we all know but that I never use (impatient) - wait till the squeeze out partially dries out to scrape /clean it off. Thick as that stuff is, just wiping with water makes a bigger mess to clean. To me, that mess is a big downside - I dont get that with TB2.

But we'll see....

Maybe I didn't like it just because it was so different from the TB glues I've gotten used to, although I can't imagine I'd ever warm up to that graininess. But w/o some tangible benefit I don't know why I'd want to go to the extra or at least different methods of work it requires.

John

Isn't it supposed to be stainable?

yes, Mr. Stan, it is stainable. I started using Elmers glue a couple years ago & am happy with the results. It is kinda grainy, but it does work well.

Tell me, if you fellas don't mind, what's your hurry when you're gluein' parts together? Are ya lookin' for a glue that holds, or a glue that hardens & breaks apart in time? Personally, I like a glue that'll give me some time for adjustments & clamping. Not set up before I get it all together. I also prefer to have my work last, & no returns. I've had returns with tb.

All good to know Brad. Thanks!

Thanks for the info. Out of curiosity, does the grainy texture keep it from slipping around during clamp up?

Failures happen for lots of reasons, but I've never known glue to be the cause of it, unless someone chose to use an interior rated glue for an exterior application. Every commercial glue I've ever used has always been stronger than the wood I've used it on.

As for Elmer's being stainable, I don't see that as an advantage. I've always tried to make glue lines invisible.

John

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Originally Posted by Phil Mueller

Thanks for the info. Out of curiosity, does the grainy texture keep it from slipping around during clamp up?

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That what I was wondering too.
When gluing up,if I have problems sliding, I knock a few grains of sandpaper grit on the glue line.

https://youtu.be/FBhjzYcWaGo

Phil, Dave,
I'd say there was a little less slippage than Ive seen with TB2, but not enough to make it a deciding factor.
Fred