Quick and Cheap Router Table
Hello,
I recently purchased the Hitachi M12V2 15 Amp 3-1/4 hp Router from Amazon for only $132.49 total! I was saving for a 3-1/4 hp router and expected to pay at least twice that. Then someone on SMC annouced this special and I jumped on it. The only problem is that I don't have a router table for it and it's killing me just sitting on the table. I need to make a decent, but cheap, router table that I can use for awhile until I save up enough money for the materials for "the ultimate table." :D
Does anyone have any suggestions/plans for a cheap/easy to build router table? I've never built a router table before, so I would also like some tips on mounting it. Do they make table mounting plates that work for any router or do you have to buy one specific to the brand/model you own? I like the square phenolic plates seen on The Router Workshop. They seem practical and easy to rabbet the table for easy installation. What's the best vendor for router table accessories and materials?
Thanks in advance!
Stephen
If your tablesaw has an extension
If your tablesaw has an extension table made of MDF to the right...
then you can rabbet out a square to match the phenolic plate and mount the plate/router assembly to the tablesaw.
And with a little work you can use your tablesaw fence to support a fence you build for your router.
v/r
dan
1 Attachment(s)
not sure if this is quite the "cheap" category
I designed and built this a couple of weeks ago. As some of you will have worked out from the deeper than wide look of the table, it was built to accommodate my new Incra positioner- the LS 25 wonderfence combo that some of us got on Amazon a few weeks ago. Sorry the sketchup diagram is a bit rough- this was my first ever try with the software!
The table carcass is constructed from 3/4" ply- it needs just under two sheets- these ran about $50 for the two.
The table sits on 4 heavy duty casters- two rotating with locks, two rolling- total cost about $32.
Other costs- some screws, and some ducting for the dust collection (I know the Sketchup doesnt show the the ducting actually connecting, but I couldn't work out how to make the cylinder follow a bend!)
Other things I did that are not in the picture:
1. added hinged doors to the open side of the case on the right. I left the shelves running loose in dadoes so they can slide in and out to make it easier to get things at the back of the shelves. I did not add doors where you see the 3 sliding shelves, only on the side with the "V".
2. I added a support piece across the top of the open end where the V and the shelves run. About 2" wide in 3/4" ply and the length of the carcass- it stiffens and squares the carcass and provides added support for the tabletop.
3. Created a lapjoint rectangular frame around the base- increased the height, strengthened the bottom and provided anchor points for the castors. All made in 2 1/2" wide ply.
4. The diagram shows the router plate a little further forward than in real life- as a result, I changed the angles of the "V" boards to move the downdraft DC hole slightly further to the back and to the left.
The BIG expense on this table was the table top- I decided to go with the Incra table (36"x24"). With the router plate (very solid) and shipping it cost a little over $200. That said, it is VERY thick and feels very solid- plus my Incra positioner could fit in the pre-drilled holes, so positioning was a snap!!
The overall height of this table was designed so that with wheels and tabletop is flush beside my Festool MFT table- lower than most will set up a router table I know, but it works in my shop layout!
I have a cutting diagram for the two sheets of ply if anyone is interested.
hope this helps
Mike