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I'm doing 1.5" on walls and 2" on ceiling. Closed cell goes beyond R value because it's vapor tight, air tight, radiant heat resistant, and adds rigidity to the building. If you chose to go closed-cell, have them house wrap the exterior before they put up the steel. If you ever get damage to the steel, you can't remove it from the close-cell without putting a gun in your mouth.
My insulation will cost as much as my material for the whole building (not including concrete).
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That sounds great Justin. I just don't have the funds to spray foam. I'll have to go fiberglass as funds are available. My shop will have to evolve in stages :)
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Dirt work quote
I had my dirt guy out to measure and estimate my pad. Looks like $2200 to $2400, which includes 15 loads of sandy loam. He does good work as evidenced by the pics and video he posts on his facebook page. The builder also said their crew were very impressed with his work, so he's hired. Going to have him build the pad just before the building goes up.
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contact your power company and see if they have a design and rebate program to use more efficient led lighting for lower cost.
Bil lD.
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Thats a good idea Bill, I will do that. I spoke with their engineer about the service going underground from the pole, 200amp, and what's expected from me, didn't think to ask him about that.
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If you plan to insulate as money becomes available, you might try a DIY spray foam, Jeff. Do an internet search on "foam it green." I have used their product twice now, and just ordered up a 3rd round for my daughter's bedroom. I previously DIY spray foamed two bathroom exterior walls. In this case, you can get the more superior product but at a price point over time. I don't know what their product comes out to per square foot but for the small areas I was doing, no pro could touch it due to their minimums.
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Thanks for the tip Chris. It looks to be affordable, and you're right, I could do it in stages as money becomes available. I need to think on this subject. I've got two months, my build date is June 7th now.
I will say I do have one concern with spray foam. I live in Oklahoma, which is a Tornado and Hail rich environment. If I ever have to replace the steel skin, I've read that spray foamed metal is difficult to remove due to the tenacious hold it has on materials sprayed upon.
Anyone have experience with this scenario?
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I have no experience with spray foam and metal but, yeah, it sticks like the dickens to whatever it touches...but then it is supposed to as that is how it seals and to a certain extent, why it can actually increase the structural integrity. Now this is for CLOSED-CELL spray foam. Closed-cell dries very rigid...like a rock. I think that Foam It Green might have OPEN-CELL available as well. It is much softer and you can easily poke a hole in it with your finger when it is fully cured...unlike closed-cell. My guess is open-cell would be a lot easier to remove.
Now keep in mind that the R-value per inch of closed-cell is about 7. Open-cell is about half that: 3.5.
So that is another variable to ponder. Perhaps a DIY spray foam open-cell kit might work better for you?
I only have experience with Foam It Green but I'm sure there are other vendors out there, too. I just read good things about them and well, I'm on my 3rd kit so that should speak volumes for what I think about it. :)
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My wife and I had planned to spend just a few months living in the shop while our house is built. I could stay there indefinitely, but I didn't want to put her through that. Well she came to me this weekend and said she wants to live in the living quarters for a year or two and save up, since we won't have a house payment then, and build a pole barn house and finish it ourselves. That's kinda been my dream for a while now. I think I picked the right woman 30 years ago :)
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Looking forward to seeing the shop built and good luck Jeff!
Let me just add that I'm extremely jealous since I only have a 16x30....
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Thanks Joe! I know I was envious for years seeing other guy's shops. It just took me a while to save up and at 55 now, better late than never. :)
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Do any of you steel sided shop owners have a preference or thoughts on 29 gauge vs 26 gauge steel for the roof and siding? I ordered it with 29 gauge, but now I'm thinking I should up it to 26 gauge as it's 25% thicker so I read.
Thoughts?
Jeff
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29 gage is pretty darn thin! But I don't know what's standard for this application...
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Thicker would seem to be better. I'm not sure 29 would survive a mild hail storm.
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I would agree with others and say go lED in the beginning. I can`t believe the difference the LED`s have made in m,y commercial 4 light fixtures! Twice the light at a 1/4 the wattage.