What type of sandpaper and adhesive do you recommend for sharpening tools with sandpaper over glass or granite?
Is removing the sandpaper from the glass a problem with this type of adhesive?
Thanks.
Bob
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What type of sandpaper and adhesive do you recommend for sharpening tools with sandpaper over glass or granite?
Is removing the sandpaper from the glass a problem with this type of adhesive?
Thanks.
Bob
3M spray adhesive, and auto painting sanding paper from an auto parts store.
Paper peels right off for changing.
Don't spray too much - just a spritz to prevent the paper from sliding around.
Mike
I use a Norton wet dry paper (220,400,800,1200,2000) and then a strop. I just use water to hold it down. It's just a few passes on each sheet usually so I have had no trouble using just water. I have also used 3M spray adhesive (or similar) in the past (with good results) but water works well and is cheap.
Water.
Both granite and glass are smooth and flat enough that you'll get good enough suction by spritzing the back of the paper or the glass with a little water.
I've also used spray adhesive on a sheet of 150g, and then put finer grits (unadhered) right on top of this. The 150g prevented those from sliding.
I still prefer just water.
I think the answer may be different based on the width of the blade and whether you are trying to establish a new bevel, hone an existing bevel, or flatten a blade back. My experience is the following:
1. With sandpaper sharpening, dubbing is a big problem. It is partially solved by using paper with very thin (A weight) backing. I believe that Norton 3X sheets and 3M Stickit Gold use A weight paper. Also, the paper needs to be smoothly adhered to the granite (or glass) without any high or low spots. That means having the glue evenly and thinly spread over the entire sheet of paper. That is why I love PSA abrasive. It's also a lot less messy. I believe the ideal paper is 3M's microfinishing film, but the grittiest I have found is 100 micron (around 150 - 180 grit I think). For the lower grits, the only PSA abrasive I have found with A weight paper is the 3M Stickit Gold, which is very expensive.
2. Silicone Carbide may be faster, but Aluminum Oxide lasts much longer. For me, the Norton 3X outperforms the wet/dry stuff. Also, you should use Aluminum Oxide for the higher finishing grits.
3. Both spray adhesive and PSA adhesive leave sticky residue that is a pain to remove. I have used citrus stuff, acetone, mineral spirits, plastic scrapers, a hair dryer, and lots of elbow grease. Just a couple of days ago, I read a suggestion to use some paste wax on the granite (well buffed) before gluing the sheets down. I tried it for the first time last night and it worked amazingly well! As long as the wax was buffed off, the adhesive still stuck and left no residue when I removed the paper.
Hope that helps,
Steve
Hope this helps.
I primarily use abrasive sheets from Lee Valley that are self adhesive. I used some 3M spray adhesive at work 2 days ago. Someone hadn't left the spray tip clean, so I got very uneven coverage. It's probably fine for chisels, but might be a problem for plane blades. I also use solid surface scraps for my substrate. I lapped them flat first using 320 grit on a granite surface plate.
Funny, I came into this thread for exactly to suggest a bit of wax. I forget where I picked that up from but it works great.Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Friedman
Try Coke - or any other Cola.Quote:
Both spray adhesive and PSA adhesive leave sticky residue that is a pain to remove. I have used citrus stuff, acetone, mineral spirits, plastic scrapers, a hair dryer, and lots of elbow grease
That works extremely well on old contact paper and the goo left by stick on vinyl floor tiles.
3M spray adhesive or use the product of best Adhesive Manufacturers in India . It will be very safe to use.