Glass Display Case

I've got a client who wants a display case with glass on three sides. She gave me a hand drawn sketch showing round corners in the frames which I added here. The case is 16 in. wide and 12 in. deep--not including the moldings. The box is 40 in. tall. How wide do you suppose the stiles ought to be on the door frame? I don't want to have to make them wider than absolutely needed of you won't be able to see into the case but I don't want the door to flex so much the glass breaks every time the door is opened.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7373/9...20a7bcc5_z.jpg

You could make the stiles vanishingly small if you make the glass sturdy enough. For instance, if you use quarter-inch thick glass, you wouldn't really need a wood frame around it at all. You've probably seen glass doors on modernish stereo cabinets which are built like that. Or maybe you've seen frameless shower doors on a tub that are quarter inch glass. However, I think a frameless door in this more traditional piece wouldn't look right. So I'd make the frame whatever width you want, and put quarter-inch glass in it. If you're a completely belt-and-suspenders guy, you could get the glass tempered. Tempered glass is much more difficult to break than untempered.

Is it freestanding Dave?

cheers

Dave

Thanks for the suggestions, Jamie.

Yes, Dave. It'll be free standing.

Dave--

I'd be comfortable with stiles in the 1 1/2" neighborhood---but those round corners bother me:

1. I don't like the look---looks "machine made" not "hand made"

2. They present a structural challenge: introducing short grain in the joint. I would want a bridle joint or a through mortise to get structure beyond the "round".

I agree with Jamie that the glass can help provide support. If you silicone it in, even double-strength glass (3/32") will provide its own structural integrity. (whereas a "dry" panel would put stress on the joints)

just my .02

Jerry, how did you conclude there are short grain joints? That seems like a bit of a leap since I didn't specify it nor show it in the illustration. You seem to have made a lot of assumptions based on a simple, undetailed drawing. What would you change to make it look hand made? The illustration doesn't show any of the fine detail that the final piece would have. I could have added those details but they wouldn't show in this small image.

I don't think the round corners add anything beyond more work. Stile size is ok or could be just a little smaller. Base could be a little taller ,then anything on the bottom shelf would have a little more presence .

The round corners were specified by the client as was the height of the base although I did show her a taller base. This was the first draft based on her design criteria but there are other options offered to her. I was asking only for suggestions on the widths of the rails and stiles on the door.

This reminds me of the time a date asked me ,"does this dress make me look fat". I replied , "no ,but that big eye in the middle of your forehead makes you look like a cyclops".

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dave Richards

Jerry, how did you conclude there are short grain joints?

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Dave---I made that conclusion based on your drawing. Here's a "close-up" of what your round corner looks like. Do you see the short-grain issue? It's not insurmountable, but a m&t joint would need the tenon to extend beyond the short-grain area (short grain being weak and subject to fracture.) Does that make sense?

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