a few questions on kitchen cabinets

after much discussion, the LOML and I have decided that we will build our own cabinets for a kitchen remodel. We are just taking baby steps, as I plan to buy door and drawer fronts and may buy the drawers too(Jim B thanks for the tip). So, I sent my blades back to Forrest to have them sharpend, I bought Udo Schmidts book on making cabinets and I stocked up pocket hole screws. Our cabinets will be painted and glazed so I was planning on a paint grade maple. Anything I have overlooked? I have not decided 100% on the vendor for the doors so recommendations would be great.

Faceframe or Euro style frameless? Remember the hinges and door style must be consistent with cabinet

How did you plan on painting the cabinets. If you don't have one you may want to look into purchasing an HVLP spray gun. While alot of people can build kitchen cabinets they often fall short in the finishing department and you and your wife will be looking at these cabinets many times very day.

Richard

Mark,
I was planning on using face frames with a raised panel mitered door. I know this is not the optimum for painting, but the rail style that we are looking at requires it. And, we have seen it in factory boxes.

For finishing, I am using a professional that only does this type of work with a turbine sprayer. I agree, looking at these cabinets everyday it is important to get a good finish

Richard makes a good point...a quality finish is essential and even though you will be glazing for final effect, spraying your base coats is a good idea. The water bourne acrylics I used (Target Coatings and Fuhr International) went on smoothly with the Wagner HVLP gun I own and are showing no wear after a year and a half of use.

I can't recommend a specific vendor for your doors, but you might consider using the same firm for both your doors and your drawer boxes. It makes for a larger order and might get you some pricing incentives. Maybe. Worth asking. Mark's advice is important...there is a design and functional component to this decision. Everything needs to work together and be consistant.

Jim---What sort of compressor is required to run the Wagner spray gun? I will be getting both a brad nailer and a spray gun in the not too distant future, will want a compressor which will run both (not at the same time :D).

Dan, when I did the kitchen project, I still had not bought my 60 gallon IR unit...was using a DeVibliss 20 gallon "portable". It worked fine. HOWEVER, it's very important to have a moisture filter in the path between your compressor and the gun to avoid problems with the finishes. So...I wouldn't suggest you use a "pancake" compressor, but something mid-size will be fine. You can always rent one if you don't have something large enough right now.

If you are buying, get the biggest, badest compressor for your shop you can afford. Forget about "horsepower"...it's SCFM and tank size you want. The bigger the tank, the less the compressor runs and the less noise and moisture you produce. You can always use an inexpensive pancake or even smaller for the nailers in the house. That's what I do...I have a $100 little red Husky thingie to cart around and the 60 gallon IR in the DC closet of the shop.

I have had excellent results buying cabinet doors from California Door. They will make custom, unfinished doors in lots of different woods and styles. More information here:

http://www.caldoor.com/home.htm

Tom,

I am also planning to start a similar project. I found a buying co-op that you can get you hardware and some other things through. They will also send you free design software.
Check out e-cabinets.com
You can also look at http://www.decore.com/#
They seem to have nice stuff.
Good luck with you build.

Cheers,
Scott

Jim,
I'm painting some cabinets with semi-gloss latex. Is it advisable to apply a glaze and what would you recommend?
Larry

Larry, I am not a finishing expert, even remotely. I don't know if you can use glazes over latex paint; I do know you can glaze over oil based paint which is also more durable and doesn't have the "sicky" effect when you set something on a shelf like you do with latex paint. Remember, "glazing" is usually done to provide an aging/coloration effect. It sticks in the cracks and wipes off the rest of the surfaces. It's not to protect the finish. If you need a hard, durable surface, I would suggest a different product; either the oil based paint if you are brushing/rolling or a water bourne acrylic (such as the products from Target Coatings USL, Fuhr International 9100 and others) if you are spraying.