I would like to remove the shaper spindle and install a router spindle but could not figure out how to lock the spindle rotation so I can use the spanner wrench to remove the shaper spindle. Appreciate any help.
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I would like to remove the shaper spindle and install a router spindle but could not figure out how to lock the spindle rotation so I can use the spanner wrench to remove the shaper spindle. Appreciate any help.
Frank: Classic or Smart, and what year?
Erik
Erik,Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik Loza
It is Smart and year 2006. If it matters it has the 5.5 ft slider. Thanks!
Frank, open the door for changing the shaper speeds. There there is a metal flip lever on the upper inside edge that will lock the spindle in place. You may need to rotate the spindle slightly until it catches. Hope this helps.
Erik
Yes, there it was, staring at me. I kept looking inside, but its conveniently located right behind the door for easy access. Changed the spindle very easily. Thank you!Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik Loza
Good deal....Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Martin
Erik
Frank
Is that router spindle worthwhile?
i.e., is the machine fast enough?
Mike
Interesting. Does it change the entire spindle so that the rpm changes too?
Or does it change only a portion of the spindle so that the spindle can accommodate a router collet?
If the former is the case, that would be great, but I'm afraid the "router spindle" would cost a fortune....
You could check the web site....snicker snicker....details coming soon....chuckle chuckle...same message for 7 years...head scratch head scratch....poke poke....Quote:
Originally Posted by Susumu Mori
On my T-40, the spanner wrench is used to change the spindle, real easy system to use, I don't have one but the manual shows a router collet option IIR. The shaper goes from 1800rpm for sanding to a top 10K rpm, great range for shaping, not so good for routing. So no router collet in my future, wouldn't use it if it came with one. I think the Felder shapers are the only ones I've heard of where you change the whole cartridge and end up with a pulley at the bottom that spins it to 18K, great for routing, $$$$$$$!
It simply changes the spindle allowing 1/2" router bits to be used, keeping the speed same. I have not used it yet, so can't comment on how well it works based on personal experience. Despite general skepticism, I have seen quite a few reports mentioning success with this approach. Of course, better for the larger bits; i.e., 1/4" roundover may not perform well.
I know the spindle costs a ton of money new. I got mine slightly used (looks new to me) from a professor who was relocating at a great price. I doubt I would pay the full price, but will report back in several weeks when I actually use it.
Thanks again to our resident Minimax resource Erik for helping me on a weekend!
Recommended bit speed from Whiteside for a raised panel bit is 12K RPM. Amana list 14K rpm, most are in that range. This means that at best you are running 16%-28% too slow depending on who you ask. And these are the largest router bits you are going to find, so as the bits get smaller your percentage off target speed gets worse. You can adjust feed rate to some extent to keep cuts per inch correct, but its challenging to feed consistently at such slow speeds. Add to this that the 1/2" shank is really the limiting factor, you still have to make 3-4 passes to do it safely, versus a shaper with 1 1/4" spindle and 4HP can easily make such cuts in a single pass, and much more cleanly, I don't see any economy what ever in the "shaper router collet". Perhaps if wood were free, time was infinite and sanding were fun the equation would be different. I'm more than skeptical, I've experienced it. Best avoided.Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Martin
I wish you the best of luck in it, but do be advised there isn't any cut you can make with a router bit at that speed that wouldn't be better served by either using a shaper cutter of proper diameter or an actual router in a table if necessary to spin router bits.
I am not a professional and admittedly safety and enjoying the process rather than speed comes first. I have the same Mini-Max unit as the (OP), and using router bits on the shaper is my go to molding operation. First is the size of the table. It is about 4-5 feet of cast iron stability. Second is the slider. Clamp the workpiece down and you feel in control. Third is the above and below dust collection hood and very adjustable presser unit to hold the work down on the table, and against the very adjustable fences. I have a router table also, but since getting the Mini-Max it does not get used very often.
I think the top speed available is 9,200 rpm, but I seldom go that high. Even on a hand held router I am usually at 2,000 rpm. On the shaper I have done raised panels with 2 inch arms on the bit, and pattern routing with a 3/4 inch straight cutter. The unit also came with a 1.25 inch shaper head and some standard cutters which work fine, but my collection of router bits is a bit more extensive.
I agree with the comments about prefering to do the work with a shaper, as opposed to the router, whenever possible but that being said, I can say the following things after selling who-knows-how-many router spindles for Minimax combos over the years....
-Even though the top spindle speed on the Minimax shaper units is 10,000rpm, I have a great number of owners who seem to get excellent results with their router bits. The key is size. You wouldn't want to use tiny 1/4" bits but for 1/2" panel-raisers and that sort of thing, they seem to work fine. Just like bandsaws, where you really need a big and a small one. You should have a router table as well as a shaper. They compliment each other.
-The Minimax router spindle is not inexpensive but is competitively priced, when compared to the same unit for other similar machines in the market.
Erik