Sharpening question x 2

I haven't received my 1220vs Jet lathe yet so have been practicing my sharpening skills in preparation. I am using the Tormek Supergrind 2000. While reading the instructions on sharpening a skew it states to ensure the angles are symmetrical. Which brings me to my first question.

- What is the purpose for the edges being symmetrical? If they are not exact how does this affect the cutting of the skew?

The tools I am starting out with are Benjamin's Best. I noticed that in following the instructions in the Tormek manual that the bevels of the Skew, Bowl and Spindle Gouge are off maybe a couple of degrees. No big deal as it only took a few minutes to produce the new bevel. I stuck with the Tormek instructions figuring it would be easier to resharpen since I will be following the manual for awhile once I started cutting and need to sharpen. Which brings me to my second question.

- Are all new tools not exact from the factory? I mean that they may be off a degree or 2 or 3?

My thoughts are that this would not be a big deal but that since I am starting out I was concerned that I may not have been followng the instructions correctly as all the tools needed to be ground down a degree or two.

I can't find a real reason for the edges of a skew to be exact, but as you grind the skew down further, it does create a sharper point at the top.

I too have a bunch of Ben's Best tools, and I'm pretty sure all tools will be a little off. I find that sometimes I'm adjusting my grinder to find the angle that I feel most comfortable with, and just forgeting the correct angle, (of course, I'm staying within a range of the reccomended angle.)

Good luck.

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Originally Posted by Paul Stroik

- What is the purpose for the edges being symmetrical? If they are not exact how does this affect the cutting of the skew?

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The amount of bevel you have on both sides of the skew should be symmetric, but you don't have break out the digital calipers. If the two sides look the same to your eye, that's good enough.

The reason for this is that for some skew cuts, you'll be going to the left and to the right. For example, if you use a skew to cut a bead, you'll have to be able to roll the skew to the left and to the right to finish the bead. Most people will find it easier to go in one direction over the other. Having the bevels symmetric will help.

By the way, if you are interested in learning how to use a skew chisel, get the Alan Lacer video on using a skew. It's just great. I got this video, and the skew chisel was the first tool I really became confortable using.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Paul Stroik

- Are all new tools not exact from the factory? I mean that they may be off a degree or 2 or 3?

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As you found out, no. One of the first things you should do with a new tool anyway is change it to the shape and profile that you want. that's one reason why you don't need to spend the extra money for a bowl gouge with a fingernail grind, if that's the shape you want. You can get a regular bowl gouge and change the shape yourself.

Appreciate the feedback.
Ben...As a newcomer to turning I too would prefer to stay within the range of recommended bevels and angles for now. Skew is pretty close to symmetrical but not exact so will leave it for now.

Wilbur...The Alan Lacer video is on my 'need to buy list' which continues to grow daily. I had the opportunity to use the skew in a class I took and liked the results. And from what I have been hearing I think I am going to enjoy the challenge of mastering that tool - if that's possible.