Neander tool list and advice needed

When deciding to re-enter my woodworking "hobby" almost 9 months ago, after a 20+ year absence, my first love and desire was in the neander direction and still is. Due to an illness, I found that I could not always depend on available "daily" strength to go the single route of neander only. I have days where I can work with hand tools and then there are days I have to depend on the power side of tools. It was for this reason that I had the forsight to plan my shop to accomodate both my real interest and my medical condition.

I have spent the last 9 months revamping an old small block building (12X17) into a very well organized and thought out workshop for my needs. Some of you may have seen some outside pictures I posted here a while back. The shop inside is right at completion and loaded with equipment and power tools to pursue this hobby and dream. I have studied each tool carefully and read forums, books and begged advice from every place I could find as I made my tool selections and purchases. I cannot begin to tell you how valuable SMC and the members here have been in this process.

Again, I turn to this same source and powerhouse of knowledge to now seek some advice and help in making sure that I have all the neander basics on hand for the days I can work in that arena. My WW interests will most likely remain on the simple side with projects like boxes, bookcases, bird houses, and simple tables and a cabinet or 2 for the house. So far I have the picked up the following tools along the way. Stanley #4 1/2 and #7 professional reconditioned planes. Block and LA block planes (new but good ones). Steve knight is currently working on my smoothing and pocket planes. I have a LN 15PPI rip DT saw, a reconditioned Dunlap saw of unknown specs. Breast drill and brace with full line of auger bits (all vintage and in excellent usable condition). The standard mallet, chisels, water sharpening stones with guide, squares, bevels, coping saw, marking guages and knives and other small goodies I have seen others talk about.

Things I do not have, but feel I probably will need are a spoke shave(s), draw knife(s) additional planes and saws for sure. I probably even need to consider a good "cordless" miter system as well for days I do not want to turn the big power boy on.

I am seeking advice, lists and or pictures from the good folks on this forum to assist me in putting together a decent neander starter tool base. I like to stay with the older refurb tools where possible, but I'm not opposed to a shiney spot among them here and there :rolleyes:

I appreciate anything you can offer that will help me out. I have reviewed several threads with tool tills, drawers and storage cabinets posted here lately and drool over what I see in them. Just not sure which tools to be drooling over that will serve my needs.

TIA for any help.

Bob,

You're way ahead of the game IMHO.

You have put a thoughtful approach to your enjoyment.

Assuming that you have a full complement of powertools that can thickness, joint, rip and crosscut lumber, the best advice I can give you is to make a few varied projects. That is when the moment will strike you:

Aha, I don't have a way to mill rabbets!
Wow, I wish I had a tool to smooth out the bottoms of those dadoes!
These 3 smoothers I have aren't working on this Gnarly grained wood, I should get a high angle one! {or bevel up one, or...}
etc...

Sure sounds to me like you have plenty to get started!
Let your need drive your next purchase...

Hi Bob,

Personally, if you have the time, I would suggest picking up tools as you discover a need. You have a reasonable base from which to start. Especially not knowing what you will build "down the road."

That said, it seems like you could pick up a decent user #5 and if you do mortise and tenons, perhaps a LN skew block plane. I suggest the LN because oldies are difficult to find and the cost is close enough to the LN.

You don't mention chisels, but I would imagine you do have some. If not, and though a new tool, for the price it is difficult to go wrong with the Lee Valley bevel edge bench chisels. They hold up reasonable and don't cost very much. Same could be said of the Japanese chisels from Grizzly or Lee Valley.

For a new miter saw, the Nobex is pretty good. I have an old Stanley, a #358 with saw:
http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/temp/..._saws_0001.jpg

These can be hard to find, but are made to stand up to daily use.

Beyond these, like I said, I would just pick 'em up as needed.

Mike

For miter saws, the Stanley 358 (as shown in Mike's post) or the 460 (an even larger version) are the ones to seek out. These are of large capacity and suitable for real work. These have roller bearings, accurate locking index stops and other desirable features and were built for the pros. The Millers Falls Langdon series is also in the same class. Stay away from the cheaper "homeowner class" offerings, including those by Stanley. I own three vintage miter boxes as my wife runs an occasional picture framing operation using these saws, supplemented by the Lion trimmer. I use the 460 in my shop. We also have the Nobex. I don't believe it is in the same class as the vintage models, designed for finish carpenters, are. Personally, I really don't like it at all as it is simply way-too light duty. The advantage, if there is one, is that you can simply replace the blades and don't have to bother with sharpening, if that appeals to you. I took off the cheesy plastic handle and replaced it a vintage saw handle and it much more comfortable to use.

The vintage miter boxes are not impossible to find around here, but you sure won't see good ones everyday. Just stay on the lookout and one will show up. The prices are usually reasonable, since the demand isn't high. For example, I bought two first rate Stanley 358's and a Langdon (with good Disston saws) just last year at auction for $5 each and no one bid against me. I was able to give a couple away as gifts. I would consider a fair price to be about $50 or so. Just be absolutely certain that all the essential parts are there (they often are not).

You might also consider a 9-11 point finish saw (shorter length) for general wood work, a 7-8 ppi for cruder stuff like rustic birdhouses. These are commonly available almost anywhere you find old tools.

For shaves, I really like the wooden ones. In cast iron, I prefer the Preston/Clifton adjustable patterns to the Stanley. The new LV ones are quite nice as well.

I have built up my vintage tools by buying them cheap when I find them cheap. You won't find all that much all that often so it is easy to add to your collection with $10 here and $30 there and not have to resort to buying new (which generally means settling for something inferior and more costly) or buying from ebay.

I would get a card scraper and a gooseneck...a burnisher and learn to use them if you don't already....a stone is needed for sharpening and a file. I would probably get the LV low angle spokeshave....very smooth. Rasps are great if you are shaping wood...Nicholson #49 and 50 are very good.

Here is a nice article about what are good sets of planes to buy for different numbers of planes.

http://www.thegaloot.org/pmwiki/pmwi...eser.Whatplane

A couple of card scrapers would be useful, but if you got a higher bedding angle on your knight planes you probably won't need a cabinet scraper right away unless you work with lots of crazy grain. Personally, my cabinet scraper hasn't been used in months since I started getting rid of my 45 degree bedded planes in favor of those with higher cutting angles (50-55 seems the best)

Other than this, I would buy your tools project specific. I.e. don't buy a DT saw until you start cutting DTs and so forth.

A good set of chisels is also great to have. Pick your flavor, there are may types of excellent chisels out there

I personally am a tool minimalist, so I try and make sure that my handtools do their job quite well, and that I don't have multiple tools to do the same job. This is mainly because I prefer to be highly skilled in the use of my tools and by having fewer tools it is easier to master these tools.

WOW.... You fellas have been fantastic so far with offering such good advice. After seeing the picture of that miter saw that Mike posted of the miter saw, I am getting the hots for one of those fast :rolleyes:

As each of you have stated, I certainly don't want to end up with a lot of tools that I don't need, but I do want to try to have at least the "basics" on hand when I need them for a project. I will continue to watch this thread and study closely the advice you all have been so kind to already offer. You guys know your stuff and that is exactly the reason for my post.

Yes, I have all the power tools on hand to do about any project, but for those times I am able, I want to use my hands in a nostalgic manner.

Thanks so much.

As Mike will tell you, after the #358 (I have just finished restoring one and can recommend it), then it is time for a shooting board plus low angle jack plane. Here I am using my Stanley #62, but the LV LA Jack is even better.

Regards from Perth

Derek

You didn't mention it, so I feel compelled to; your bench is an important "tool", and deserves careful consideration. If you have room, separate power tool and hand tool benches are nice to have, I use my power tool/general bench as an assembly table and "staging area", and have intentionally not put any electrical outlets near my neander bench, so running the extension cord gives me time to reflect on whether I really want to get that spinning steel in close proximity to my bench.

A popular strategy is to buy/build one that seems like it will do the job for you, then keep running notes of its (minor, hopefully) shortcomings as you work, then build your ultimate bench. I just completed version 2.0 (and demoted 1.0 to be a power tool bench), which I don't consder "ultimate", although I may never get around to v. 3.0 if this serves well enough.

Great discussion of bench alternatives at Bob Key's site: http://www.terraclavis.com/bws/benches.htm

You have a great start so far. The one thing I don't see in your list is a shoulder plane. This is one of the key 4 planes to start with, the others being a Jointer, smoother, and a block plane. With these 4 planes a couple saws and some chisels and mallet, you should be able to make just about everything on your project list. You can always add later. I have a couple woodies and the LV Large shoulder plane. I think this is one of the best shoulder planes going. I also have and love the LN #140, but that is one you may want to add later. Also, if you find that you really like to the neander thing, you will definately want to add a scrub plane.

Just as an aside, do yourself a favor and keep your eyes open at tag sales and antique shops for a decent old drafting set. Having a quality compass and tramells etc. for layout really makes a difference, IMHO.

Oh, one more thing, get yourself a decent set of hold fasts and you will spend more time on projects and less time planning and thinking about bench layout etc. Amazing how usefull they are.

Good luck.

Robert

Came back to visit my thread and find even more good tips. I want to thank you all so much and especially the brand and model numbers. I plan on printing this thread out and keeping it next to my Amex card (don't leave home without it :D ) when I go junking and rust hunting.

These items sound like they will give me a good basic arsenel to have on hand and I can add to it as future projects require.

Thanks again