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Planed some stock today for a project and while I was doing it I thought of some questions.
1. I know I should plane equal amounts from each side but, does it matter if I flip the piece after each cut or can I just take the equal number of cuts from each side?
2. Should I turn the piece end for end after each cut?
I'm new to planing my own stock so I hope I'm not showing too much ignorance.
Jerry,
If I understand the question, determine the grain direction and feed accordingly to minimize tear out (not important if helical head). Then flip the board end for end this will maintain the correct grain direction.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bruette
I flip the piece after each pass.
I only turn it end-to-end if I see tear out.
After it comes off the jointer plane the top side until all of the rough wood is gone. Flip it over and plane that side and let it sit over night. This will release the tension in the wood. If it warps a hair use the jointer then the plane again.
You want to take off a little at a time until the boards are flat then plane to the desired thickness. It may take a few days until you ready for the final planing but wait. If you plane to the final thickness the first time the odds are the boards will twist a bit and you have nothing to plane.
Ill test them by putting the on the jointer and if the show no gaps or rock your good to go.
As for the grain. Run your hand along the edge ex left to right. If it's smooth feed the board that way. Your with the grain. I mark my boards with an arrow so I know the feed direction. This rule applies for feeding the jointer also.
Should've been more specific.
I'm actually planing some oak flooring that I have. It's 3/4 inch thick and I planed it to 1/2 inch thick for the project. I planed the grooves off the back of the flooring, while counting the number of cuts, then I took the same number off the other side. Then I flipped the piece for every cut until I reached the final dimension. Is it okay to do it this way?
I've never had or used a planer until I bought this one at an auction, I'm a little excited about actually being able to machine stock to the thickness I need instead of buying it.
Jerry,
Be cautious if it is prefinished flooring. The filler they use in the finishing process has a lot of silica and can be really hard on tool edges. If it is unfinished, no problem. I have a good bit of Oak left from my remodel and use it for all sorts of stuff. Got some prefinished walnut from a buddy and destroyed a set of planer knives before I figured out what was going on.
Tom
Jerry, your method is ok. It works fine. Flip or end for end based on keeping the grain in the correct direction.
In general, the rule to take the same amount off each side is a pretty loose one, not set in concrete. It's more important for very thin stock. As for letting your timber sit for days to let it move, that just means it's not seasoned. Cheers
I see a difference between "turning" it end for end and "flipping" it end for end. I feel it's important to flip it (end to end, not side to side) to plane the other side of the board if you want to prevent tear-out.Quote:
Originally Posted by scott vroom
think of oven dried wood as sort of case hardened. you're releasing tension in the wood as you plane. if i'm making doors, i let the pieces move a few hours before final sizing.
Normally you would plane in stages and sticker to acclimate for a few days.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bruette
In the case of flooring, you might not need to but I would still follow these standard procedures. You never know there is always the possibility of unequal moisture it depends on how long the flooring has been removed. If it is remaining stable I would just go for it.
I don't see anything wrong with your technique. For me, the ideal is to plane the same amount of wood off each face by flipping the board end to end after each pass in the planer. However, that assumes that there are no imperfections on one side that you want removed which might require more material to be removed from the side with the imperfection.
I have always understood the goal of alternating sides is to prevent the internal stresses from warping the board one direction or the other, not so much to let it dry out. If it is not properly dry to begin with, there will probably not be enough wood left to correct the resulting malformations. The other line of thought is to plane it, get it cut to size, and assembled into the project as quickly as possible and the let the glue and fasteners keep the wood from "malforming".
With flooring I would assume that it is already dried to the point that moisture wouldn't be a problem. Whether the grain will cause any other stresses on the wood depends on how straight grained the wood is; the more straight grain the less likely warping.