Tea House Chair - Back and Arm Rests

Good morning! I've been moving along on the tea house chair, saving the table for future posts once the chair is completed.

Please have a read, and I look forward to your comments.

I'll note also, that I intend to stop posting on various forums when I make a weekly update. I plan to instead only post maybe at the start and end of a project, if you would like to follow along with my weekly updates please visit the blog directly.

I feel I'm imposing upon the forum by posting my weekly updates in a specific thread for each one, I appreciate that many of you do enjoy that but it's time for a change.

Very nice work as per usual Brian. I assume you will have a short spindle on the front end of each arm though, right, otherwise I'd be very concerned about breaking either the armrest or the corresponding support spindles.

Indeed, there will be a support, though it will be more involved than a spindle. In attempt to have a more modern appearance than a Windsor chair I've decided to make a molded shape for a support.

Thank you!

Yes, beautiful work and blog. I too would appreciate some insight on the connection between the armrest and the back spindle and what may be added to the front of the arm for support to prevent a lever.
What type of glue do you use for laminations like this? Thank you,

Thanks Edwin!

I did cover both of those topics. ;) The arm support will not be revealed until it is created in entirely, I don't have a specific plan just yet, only an abstract.

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Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe

Indeed, there will be a support, though it will be more involved than a spindle. In attempt to have a more modern appearance than a Windsor chair I've decided to make a molded shape for a support.

Thank you!

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That might be a very nice way to go. A simple spindle isn't the strongest for lateral forces although its fine for vertical loading.

I agree completely, I think a single spindle makes for a wobbly arm in the future.

Nice work!

Out of curiosity which plastic resin glue did you try and what didn't work about it? I ask because I've seen suggestions to use Urea-Formaldehyde glues for bent laminations, typically based on the argument that they're more flexible and resilient and therefore better for bent forms.

Brian, as always, pretty awesome. I also think that the blog format is much cleaner and easier to navigate (another 'at-a-boy', lol). Thanks for sharing - I can't wait to see the arm support!

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Originally Posted by John Kananis

Brian, as always, pretty awesome. I also think that the blog format is much cleaner and easier to navigate (another 'at-a-boy', lol). Thanks for sharing - I can't wait to see the arm support!

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Yep, another +1 for the format.

BTW I just checked and it appears that "brianholcombeaxemurderer.com" is still available, in case you want to branch out. Just saying...

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Originally Posted by Patrick Chase

Yep, another +1 for the format.

BTW I just checked and it appears that "brianholcombeaxemurderer.com" is still available, in case you want to branch out. Just saying...

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I'll keep that in mind as I start to purchase broad axes....they're multi-purpose!

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Originally Posted by Patrick Chase

Nice work!

Out of curiosity which plastic resin glue did you try and what didn't work about it? I ask because I've seen suggestions to use Urea-Formaldehyde glues for bent laminations, typically based on the argument that they're more flexible and resilient and therefore better for bent forms.

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I tried wood weld, and I have no honest complaints about it, my glue lam separated mostly because I used material that was too heavy. However, my major complaint with powder glue is that it requires me to get the mixture right, something I am lousy at. I mixed to the recommended amount but gut instinct was that it was too thin.

I had a few people comment that they've had fine luck with Titebond III for glue lams, and also for outdoor purpose and so I decided just to go with something I've had more experience with. I've also had a table outside, with that involves multiple glue ups and it's been left out uncovered for 5-6 years. It's pretty basic and honestly under-built and still it doesn't flinch at 3' of snow or being in sunlight for the majority of the day.

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Originally Posted by John Kananis

Brian, as always, pretty awesome. I also think that the blog format is much cleaner and easier to navigate (another 'at-a-boy', lol). Thanks for sharing - I can't wait to see the arm support!

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Thanks John!

Glad to hear from both of you that the format is improved. The menu bar still needs my attention, I'd like to have drop downs like the previous format, but I felt the top bar on the previous format was cluttered looking, so I'm glad to do away with it.

It also annoyed me that the tagline would be on the right hand side of my name, which I thought was very strange. I like it centered under the name as it is now.

Of course I had to pay money for this format, which also why it took me so long to move from a basic free format....lol.

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Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe

Thanks Edwin!

I did cover both of those topics. ;) The arm support will not be revealed until it is created in entirely, I don't have a specific plan just yet, only an abstract.

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Well I was quite sure you were heading somewhere interesting with the armrest and I was trying to fast forward. But if Martin Scorsese is going to keep us in suspense, I will just have to stay tuned!

Glad to here you are working on the arm. As soon as I saw the picture the lower side of the arm just jumped out and gave me a slap. The rest looks terrific. Nice to be able to follow the build on your blog.
Jim

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Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe

I tried wood weld, and I have no honest complaints about it, my glue lam separated mostly because I used material that was too heavy. However, my major complaint with powder glue is that it requires me to get the mixture right, something I am lousy at. I mixed to the recommended amount but gut instinct was that it was too thin.

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I measured with a scale the few times I worked with Urea-Formadehyde. It seemed to work fine, other than friends asking if the scale was for measuring drug deals.

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Originally Posted by Edwin Santos

But if Martin Scorsese is going to keep us in suspense, I will just have to stay tuned!

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Surely you meant "Uwe Boll".

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Originally Posted by James Pallas

Glad to here you are working on the arm. As soon as I saw the picture the lower side of the arm just jumped out and gave me a slap. The rest looks terrific. Nice to be able to follow the build on your blog.
Jim

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Thanks Jim!

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Originally Posted by Patrick Chase

I measured with a scale the few times I worked with Urea-Formadehyde. It seemed to work fine, other than friends asking if the scale was for measuring drug deals.

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Much like broad axes, the scales are also multi-purpose. Honestly, I regret buying the glue every time I do. I've used similar stuff for veneer laminations and have been occasionally surprised in a bad way.

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Originally Posted by Patrick Chase

Surely you meant "Uwe Boll".

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Next level trolling ;)

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Originally Posted by Patrick Chase

I measured with a scale the few times I worked with Urea-Formadehyde. It seemed to work fine, other than friends asking if the scale was for measuring drug deals.

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For some jobs we used it even a little thinner than label info.

Well done, Brian. I find the arm quite appealing and fitting with the rest of the theme. Look forward to the final reveal!

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Originally Posted by Phil Mueller

Well done, Brian. I find the arm quite appealing and fitting with the rest of the theme. Look forward to the final reveal!

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Thank you!

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Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe

Much like broad axes, the scales are also multi-purpose.

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Indeed. Having either laying around is a sort of Rorshach test for acquaintances. Apparently the people I hang out with are drug fiends.

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Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe

Honestly, I regret buying the glue every time I do.

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Same here, but mostly because I don't use it often enough and it expires long before I consume it all. I've heard horror stories about plastic resin that's past its shelf life so I generally pitch it when it gets there.

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Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe

Next level trolling ;)

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I'll take that as a compliment. You really can't blame the guy for finding a way to simultaneously provide a tax shelter and advance his... um... art.

That's happened to me with that sort of glue. The glue seemed to mix up fine after 1 year, but after "curing" in the press the panels peeled right off the substrate... they didn't peel off well enough to be saved, however.

Brian, I doubt you mixed it too thin. The way we use it for that particular purpose is so thin that it will immediately drip ,not run off a stick. A thick coat on one surface won't work ,both surfaces need to be coated. The glue spreads and works better if you let it sit at least ten minutes after mixing. I'm pretty sure that used to be on the label ...but that was a long time ago. That makes a big difference on materials like Italian bending ply which are saturated with glue during manufacture; the rest makes the glue cover evenly. With out the rest the glue will kind of bead up ,resisting an even coat and requiring more spreading. Yes, the glue can go bad if not carefully stored. The container top needs to be replaced quickly, not after you have mixed what you need now! When buying 25 pound containers I have taken as long as two years to use it all. I put in some silica gel ,put container in thick plastic bag and store it in the office,not shop. I even put a piece of metal on for temp top while weighing it out. I asked a guy at the company if all that would keep it good. He said "yeah,if you're willing to do all that!" And I asured him I was. And I've bought and used a lot of it.

Thanks Mel, appreciate your insights. I did not know if thinner was better or worse than thicker, which was the majority of my concern.

It should be a better glue for the application but I will likely do away with it unless I start doing enough bent laminations. To want to work out the kinks in my process. Titebond is something I've had much success with so it does offer some reassurance in that context which currently does not exist for me in plastic resin.

I avoid epoxy for similar reasons and I used to use very high quality epoxies on knife handles....fast forward 15 years and I'm repairing that connection. I know it is a different context but I lack trust in certain glues.

Brian, the thin mix I described has just a bit more water that what it has if mixed exactly like the mfg directions.