Leveling a PM 66 top

I think a few of you might reconize my posts by now, I'm the guy that got the NOS 1988 PM 66 & DJ 20. I just finished wiring my shop. I thought the motor on the saw was 3HP as I was told by the son, but after tripping a breaker I checked and it's 5HP. I put in a 40 amp circuit. Now to the leveling. I swapped the extensions end for end an have it pretty close. The main top is dead level. The extensions are up a bit on the ends causing a .004 gap; gap starts about 1" on main table and extends about 3-4" on the extension. This was checked with a Lee Valley 50" straight edge and their long guages. How close should I get before I quit? Should I shoot for no measurable gap, if possible? Don't know what would be acceptable. I do not have any shims, would aluminum foil raise the ends? I would have to put it above the bolts to lower the ends( make them droop down), I know bad analogy, little bluried eyed right now. Any suggestions help would as always be greatly appreciated.
Jim
PS: I have to make a motor cover also as I can not find a metal one(don't want the plastic) so I'll be posting again for dimensions of the oem cover.

I think I would probably call it good.

Jim

I would leave it alone. .004 is within the realm of acceptable error in manufacturing of the top+ the tolerance of the straight edge+ whatever you are measuring with. You can always go back and shim it when you get some shim stock. Aluminium foil works, but it's slow going because of all the compression of the foil layers. Actual shim stock is better. If you get into bind and have to shim it. Buy a few sets of cheap automotive feeler gauges. They make good shim stock in a pinch.

The wood will move more than .004 overnite.;)

Thank's for the replies Mike & Mike:D I'm using a Lee Valley 50 " aluminum straightedge. A close friend of mine is a machinist and he took it to work and checked it on some sort of Starret machine, he told me for being aluminum it was pretty much dead on for woodworking. I forgot the measurment he gave me but according to him it wasn't much and seemed impressed after initally pooh pawing it for being aluminum. I also used lee valleys long feeler guages. Thanks for the heads up on the automotive feeler gauges. I'll go and buy two sets in the morning. I just thought it would had to havebeen placed on the entire length. Sometimes I think I get carried away( almost obsessed) with getting things to tloerances that for wood working would not make a difference, except to my nerves:rolleyes: Now I can get the fence mounted and try and find some Formica for an etension table. Lowes and Home Depot only have granite colored. I could use melamine but would prefer Formica, if I can find it online somewhere.
Jim