Powder coated tumblers

Hey everyone, I've done a couple Powder Coated Yeti's and Ozark Trails and even through the P.C. finish is different I still get the same results. I always get a color haze left over on the stainless. I have read on here and other websites that if you scrub it with rubbing alcohol or Goo Gone it will comes off. I haven't tried goo gone but I have tried other things and it seems to lighten it some but always leaves a stain of the original color.

I try to hit it pretty hard, despite what the material database says to use.

I have a 30 watt ULS 2.3 and I have been hitting it with 100%P, 50%S and 500ppi. The material database in the driver says 36%p and 100%s.

Here is the last one I did, this was with me scrubbing the hell out of it with alcohol. Its more pronounced than the camera shows.

Is that the nature of the beast?


http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psgmncjnyr.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psziaye7f0.jpg

I haven't done many of these, but I believe others have said that doing 2 passes is the key to getting good results from powder coated items. I'm sure you'll have some more input here shortly, but that's my advice for now.

If the finish can take it, acetone does a great job removing residue. Two passes will almost guarantee clean results and even then I'll clean them with denatured alcohol.

I've ran into Hydroflasks that have had enough p-coating on them to stop bullets. Like .020" thick or more. These animals take 3 passes at Cermark speeds with the GCC. It's ridiculous.

The best 'average' results I've found is to run one pass fairly slow at 500 res- then IF NEEDED I run a quicker pass at 380, this usually takes care of it, ridiculous thicknesses notwithstanding...

But thanks to my wife I found the absolute best cleaner for these, 'almost' acetone :D -- which would be 'strengthening' or 'nourishing' fingernail polish remover-
The store brands of this stuff work great! It's mostly acetone, but while straight acetone makes p-coating tacky almost immediately, this stuff is buffered down enough to give you much more working time-
not a LOT mind you, but "one thousand one one thousand two" for the damp wipe followed by a dry wipe works great. Two seconds with straight acetone and my rag is sticking to it.. ;)

Try denatured alcohol first, not rubbing alcohol. Cuts all of the various colors I have done, but without the risk of acetone. If it won't cut it, acetone or fingernail polish remover Kev suggested. And carefully use a magic eraser. They will scratch some coatings, so careful!

I use orange cleaner most of the time but I never do a second pass on cups. I will do that on flat items if needed.

There are some things that rubbing alcohol cleans better than dna. I just bought a bottle on isopropyl 91% yesterday. In this case it is to clean Apple watch bands and it works much better than dna. That said, most of the time I use dna.

I tried Denatured alcohol, lacquer thinner, pure simple green concentrate windex with no change. I'll have to pick up some fingernail polish remover and see what that does.

Is this a case where less is more? Perhaps backing down your power would yield a better result. FWIW, the tumbler looks good to me.

Automotive polishing compound.

This is a p-coated flat aluminum lid engraved by my fiber. It took 5 passes to get thru this much coating-
and I've ran into a few Hydroflasks with this much coating-
Attachment 357297

When it's this thick, there's no doing them once, or at lower power I'm afraid!

And on those with a nice reasonably thin coating, results don't seem better at lower powers that work than full power...