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Okay now I know that I will be using the design on the right with half lap joints for strength. How should I attach the glass from the back and keep it in place? I'm sure there are different ways. The wood thickness is 3/4". The frame width is 2 1/2".
Thanks,
Rob
It might sound a bit crude but clear silicone sealant will glue it in.
Rabbet the frame, use the little triangle type glaziers points and run a bead of clear silicone.
I like the GE stuff that's safe for an aquarium. It stinks a little less @ least to me it does.
Glaziers points come in two styles.
One style has little legs on them. Those are fairly visible.
The other style is a flat triangle. Those hide pretty well.
I'm a belt and suspenders type which is why I use the points in addition to the bead of silicone.
Recent thread about the topic: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...ighlight=glass
I'd form a glass rabbit, a few beads of silicone at the corners and along the length to hold in the glass and keep it from rattling, then pin nail wooden stops to hold the glass in the rabbit as the silicone sets.
that's what the glass shop used for my kitchen cabinet doors a few years ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Parks
My preferred method is build door with a rabbet, put in glass with stops (usually 5/16 x 5/16). Pin nail in after door and stops finished.
THis is especially a good way to go for mirrors, where you don't want to have glue or unfinished wood reflecting back in the mirror.
The other advantage to stops is it makes it easy to replace a broken glass/mirror.
An alternative that is entirely reversible is to use Glaziers putty. You can tint it to match and it never dries out, it takes no special skill to do, you don't need stop strips, and it's easy to clean after application. All you need is glazier points and a putty knife, and you can also use the points to mount pictures and artwork into frames as well, so you really get a good bang for the buck.
- Beachside Hank
Do not use remaining fingers as push sticks.
I make my own quarter round to install glass in cabinet doors. It gives a much more professional look than silicone or those plastic tabs plus you don't have the smell or need to wait for it to cure along with the possible mess of the silicone.
I just make the door like a normal raised panel door but cut the back lip off after the door is assembled. No need for those special bits and more setups.
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At my wives request, I just removed the raised panel from two of my kitchen cabinets and replaced them with antique glass. On the recommendation of a first rate glass shop in my area I just ran a bead of clear silicon on the glass where it meets the wood and smoothed it out with a small hand tool made for that purpose. Worked great and there is no rattle when closing the doors. I recommend this with no reservation.