Veritas chip breaker

I've recently become a convert to the yes-the-chip-breaker-really-does-more-than-prevent-chatter school of thought and, as a result, I'm more careful to set the chip breaker close to the edge of the blade than I have been in the past. Once I started doing that, I noticed a problem with one of my Veritas replacement blade/chip breaker sets. I doubt that it makes a whole lot of difference, but in the interest of being more specific, it's a 2 3/8" blade on a Millers Falls No. 10 (equivalent to Stanley 4 1/2). The problem was that shavings accumulated between the blade and the chip breaker. Closer inspection showed that there was a very slight gap between the edge of the chipbreaker and the back of the blade. In other words, the chip breaker wasn't fitting against the blade at the edge as shown here http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...68&cat=1,41182, but somewhere a bit farther back, probably at the back side of the flat area.

I thought about sending it back to Lee Valley, but I didn't want to wait on a replacement. Despite my reluctance to modify anything from Lee Valley, with a little work on a diamond stone I soon had it making contact right at the edge of the chipbreaker. While I was at it, I also rounded over and polished the top of the edge of the chipbreaker. Works fine now. However, I'm still not sure if there really was a problem with the chipbreaker to begin with, or if I was doing something else wrong -- maybe overtightening the screw so the chipbreaker flexed too much?

Has anyone else had a similar experience?

I find that many chipbreakers need a little tuning with a stone (or a file in extreme cases) to get them to seat properly. I think it is just the general fine tuning that is required due to the machining of the blade and the breaker.

Michael, chip breakers are like blades - they all require preparation. It is rare to get a chipbreaker that did not require flattening. Of the two Veritas custom plane chipbreakers I have, one was perfect and the other required a little work. That's pretty good going.

The thing is, the closer the chipbreaker is set to the edge of the blade, the greater the demand is that it is flat.

Regards from Perth

Derek

One of my Hock chip breakers was allowing shavings to slip underneath.

My first step in tuning it up was to give the top bevel a few strokes on an India stone. This quickly made a burr on the mating side. Then a thought came to me. It was replaced on the sharpened blade with the burr. Seems to be working fine for now. Most likely the next time the blade is sharpened the chip breaker will need some attention.

jtk

[QUOTE=Derek Cohen;2380776]Michael, chip breakers are like blades - they all require preparation. /QUOTE]
I know this is an accepted fact of life but I really don't understand why. If I buy a router bit, its sharp. If I buy drill bits, they are sharp. If I buy saw blades (circular or bandsaw), they are sharp. If I buy a jointer or planer, the blades in them are sharp. Why is it that the neanderthals accept products that are less than satisfactory? Why can't a manufacturer that is capable of making chisels or planes provide them with sharp edges? Maybe most neanders just like to tinker with them themselves? Is that what separates neander's from the rest?

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Originally Posted by Pat Barry

Why can't a manufacturer that is capable of making chisels or planes provide them with sharp edges? Maybe most neanders just like to tinker with them themselves? Is that what separates neander's from the rest?

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The cost of doing so might be just one aspect of the picture.

Also to consider is the possible accidents to employees when handling edges to the level of sharpness most of us prefer.

BTW, every new blade purchased has come to my shop sharp enough to cut wood. Maybe not as sharp as is liked, but if one follows Paul Sellers, much sharper than his 250 grit is enough video would produce.

Then there is the usual post about how someone just purchased a new Veritas blade and the first thing they do is take it to the stones to flatten the back. It is likely flatter than can be had in the home shop on the best of stones.

Next comes the debate about blade angle and let us not forget about the secondary bevel, back bevel, camber and ruler tricks.

How many of these additional features should be included on what is offered by today's tool makers?

Maybe the chip beakers could be done a bit better. Usually over time they need a bit of touch up anyway.

jtk

I had a similar problem with a 2-3/8" PM-V11 set...the iron was flat but the breaker was slightly twisted; it would not seat at one corner and collected shavings. A call to LV and a replacement set (test-fitted at LV) was in the mail with return info and forms for the original set.

[QUOTE=Pat Barry;2380943]

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Originally Posted by Derek Cohen

Michael, chip breakers are like blades - they all require preparation. /QUOTE]
If I buy a router bit, its sharp. If I buy drill bits, they are sharp. If I buy saw blades (circular or bandsaw), they are sharp. If I buy a jointer or planer, the blades in them are sharp.

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Not as sharp as they can be, the power overcomes what's missing.

I can see a blade needing final honing but a chipbeaker/ blade purchased as a set I'd expect to mate correctly, as shown.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/images/i.../05p6320s3.jpg

I have three of the LV chip breakers and they all fit. I have lapped all of the irons in a previous life (it just seems like a previous life - it was a long time ago).

[QUOTE=Pat Barry;2380943]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Derek Cohen

Michael, chip breakers are like blades - they all require preparation. /QUOTE]
I know this is an accepted fact of life but I really don't understand why. If I buy a router bit, its sharp. If I buy drill bits, they are sharp. If I buy saw blades (circular or bandsaw), they are sharp. If I buy a jointer or planer, the blades in them are sharp. Why is it that the neanderthals accept products that are less than satisfactory? Why can't a manufacturer that is capable of making chisels or planes provide them with sharp edges? Maybe most neanders just like to tinker with them themselves? Is that what separates neander's from the rest?

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Cost. All off the sharps you are discussing are power tools, which use different steels than our hand tools, and, frankly, aren't nearly as sharp as hand tool junkies want. They are all factory sharpened using machinery, a process that our steels don't like very much. To successfully sharpen chisel and plane blades would cost a fair bit, not to mention put the seller at risk of greater liability when some knucklehead kid in a store starts playing with the razor sharp tool. They CAN do it, it's just that there's not a strong enough business case to do so.

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Originally Posted by Jim Koepke

My first step in tuning it up was to give the top bevel a few strokes on an India stone. This quickly made a burr on the mating side. Then a thought came to me. It was replaced on the sharpened blade with the burr.jtk

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Interestingly, I also wondered if that would work. The difference is my next thought was, "Naaaah." Maybe next time I'll try it.