Electricity Fundamentals Question - Long
I am currently attempting to plan the lighting and electrical layout for my basement workshop. I am an electricity novice (read illiterate) and am seeking advise/education on the subject.
What I am trying to gain from your input:
Creat the most flexible, yet simple electrical layout/plan
After I complete the current framing phase, I plan to disconnect and reroute the current electrical layout (ie remove the existing lights and wiring within the basement then reconnect any wires that were shared with the basement fixtures back to their appropriate feeds). I will then place the new outlet boxes and run wires back to where the new sub panel (type and size undecided - not enough information yet) will be installed. I will have an electrician install the sub panel, install fuses, and do the final connections to the runs I have installed. Hopefully he will further educate me along the way, though I do plan on discussing the layout prior to running any wire.
The shop is/will be a one man operation (most of the time). However, I do see the possability of working together with my Father, FIL, BIL, and hopefully one day, my step son.
At the moment I do not own the stationary equipment that will eventually fill my woodshop (plan on basics, TS, BS, CMS, Cyclone, Planer, Joiner, etc). I am still using my "portable" tools I purchased when we lived in a townhouse. I will be replacing these tools as needed/funds available once the renovation is complete. So, not knowing the exact specifications of tools and wanting the most flexible arrangement for the future, what would you do?
What I do know/would like to do:
Install sub panel (lockable off) for safety and flexability
Multiple circuits for lighting - not all on sub panel
Multiple circuits for electrical outlets (120)
Multiple circuits for electrical outlets (240)
Separate circuit for DC (cyclone), Compressor (if needed), etc
Large tools shoud be limited on the same circuit
Single Phase Tools (for the foreseeable future)
Lighting Plan
8 x 8' (4 x 4' T8 Light Bulbs) - plug in
8 x 4' (2 x 4' T8 Light Bulbs) - plug in
Mount one duplex outlet at ceiling height per fixture leaving one socket for secondary or task lighting as needed
Electrical - Initial Thoughts:
Placed approximately 6' apart
Alternating a quad 120 outlet and a duplex 120 w/ 240 outlet
Placed approximately 50" from the floor to the bottom of outlet
Basic Questions:
How many lights can be on a single circuit
Can the same set of lights be controlled by three seporate wall switches, I know you can do two switches
How many outlets (120 or 240) can be on one circuit
Things that really confuse me (definite education needed)
What guage wire is used for 120, 240 for a woodshop
Wire run in conduit or Romex, why
Is there a standard amp for 120
Is there a standard amp for 240
Can I install all 240 lines and run machines at 220, 230
Can something that runs on 20 or 25 amps run off a lie that is 30 amp
If I run all 240, can I just change the fuses to the needed amp
Thank you all once again (electrically inclined especially) for your help and advise. One day I will be on that side of the creek, wading information across to those who need advise.
Eric
A Little "Clarification Here"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Will
Eric,
A few thoughts on your electrical.
110 vs. 220: Any time you have a choice, wire the motor to run 220v. Remember AMPS are what count and 220 runs half the amps of 110 doing the same job.
Rob
I felt a little Clarification for the Reader to the above statement was in order, as this is probably one of the most commonly misquoted, or Rather, "Misunderstood" facts about electrical circuits. Any motor (except for a few SPECIALLY BUILT Motors with different windings), will use the "Same TOTAL Amps" whether running on 110V OR 220V. The difference is that it is ALL on ONE Hot leg of a 110 ckt, and it is SPLIT between TWO Hot legs on a 220 ckt.
For example, a motor's label that shows 15 A@110V / 7.5A@220V does NOT mean that the motor will only use 7.5A TOTAL when running on 220V, because in the 110 ckt there is one HOT wire (supplying ALL 15 amps), one Neutral wire, and one Ground wire, whereas in a 220 ckt, there are TWO HOT wires (Each supplying half of the 15 Amps), and One Ground wire, (no neutral).
Therefore, running on 220V Could Possibly allow one to use a smaller guage wire rated for the reduced amp requirement per leg if so desired, but I wouldn't, (I'd rather have the extra "Safety Cush" and less chance for a voltage drop over a long ckt run). I wouldn't even consider changing any motor to 220V unless it is larger than 1 hp, and probably only above 1 1/2 hp, as the motor will not notice the difference of 110 vs 220 as long as the wire guage is sized appropriately for the amp draw, and there is NO SAVINGS on electricity used.
Hope this helps.