porter cable 690 bearing removal

Does anyone know how to remove the armature from the collet spindle on the porter cable 690 router? I'm trying to replace the lower bearing.
Thanks Richard

but when I disassembled my P-C Model 100 (the dome top router) some years back, I found I had to remove the top by removing the throughbolts that held it on and tapping the top casting off with a plastic hammer, then make a "wrench" that clamped around the commutator (explained below) to hold it still while I removed the nut that held the collet. I've also had to do this on another P-C (Rockwell, actually, but who's counting?) router, so I think it may have been a common design on their part.

I fabricated the wrench out of a 1x2 strip of hardwood about 6" long - maple, I think (too lazy to go out to the shop just now, but maple or birch would be ideal for this purpose) - by cutting a hole the diameter of the commutator centered in the width and near one end, getting it smooth, then cutting along the length of the board from the end down a bit past the hole. I cross-drilled the board for a bolt to tighten the hole around the commutator. I've since discovered that it works as well and is faster to clamp the board in a machinist's vise.

You want the inside of the hole smooth and free of grit, so as not to damage the commutator.

Oh, and, not to insult you, but this is a woodworking forum rather than a mechanic's forum, so in case you don't know what a commutator is: the brushes run on the commutator to transmit power to the motor. It's just below the top bearing and is shiny copper color with vertical slots in it.

If you can find an exploded parts drawing, you might be able to confirm whether your model is assembled the same way by kind of thinking through the logic.

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Originally Posted by Bill Houghton

but when I disassembled my P-C Model 100 (the dome top router) some years back, I found I had to remove the top by removing the throughbolts that held it on and tapping the top casting off with a plastic hammer, then make a "wrench" that clamped around the commutator (explained below) to hold it still while I removed the nut that held the collet. I've also had to do this on another P-C (Rockwell, actually, but who's counting?) router, so I think it may have been a common design on their part.

I fabricated the wrench out of a 1x2 strip of hardwood about 6" long - maple, I think (too lazy to go out to the shop just now, but maple or birch would be ideal for this purpose) - by cutting a hole the diameter of the commutator centered in the width and near one end, getting it smooth, then cutting along the length of the board from the end down a bit past the hole. I cross-drilled the board for a bolt to tighten the hole around the commutator. I've since discovered that it works as well and is faster to clamp the board in a machinist's vise.

You want the inside of the hole smooth and free of grit, so as not to damage the commutator.

Oh, and, not to insult you, but this is a woodworking forum rather than a mechanic's forum, so in case you don't know what a commutator is: the brushes run on the commutator to transmit power to the motor. It's just below the top bearing and is shiny copper color with vertical slots in it.

If you can find an exploded parts drawing, you might be able to confirm whether your model is assembled the same way by kind of thinking through the logic.

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Well hello Bill Houghton. Are you the guy who writes router books? If so its an honor
Regarding the original poster pay special attention to the "Tap it" part. My 690 was exactly how Bill described

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Originally Posted by Richard Jackson

Does anyone know how to remove the armature from the collet spindle on the porter cable 690 router? I'm trying to replace the lower bearing.
Thanks Richard

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Either an electric, or pneumatic impact wrench will spin it right off. PC used some special bearings in their 690's. After you get it apart, mike the bearing, especially the length of the center. Surprisingly, PC was cheaper than local bearing vendor for this bearing. When reassembling, only put on hand tight as bit will finish tightening.

Yep. Air impact wrench