My new replacement shop 40x68x13

I built a 24'x40' shop in 2001. It served me well over the years, but, I outgrew it several years ago. So, I decided to give myself a retirement gift: a new 40'x68'x13', and tear down the old shop. The new shop has a separate vehicle bay which will house a 2 post lift. That portion of the shop is 18' wide, leaving the woodworking part 50'x40'. In the rear of the vehicle bay, there is a utility room which houses the radiant floor heating equipment, toilet/sink, and the air compressor. Also in this area is a separate 12'x12' spray booth with an explosion-proof fan.

The concrete guys did a great job. The back concrete wall is 8ft. tall to get to grade. The foundation extends 1 ft. over the 5" floor to create a stem wall. Then, 12 ft. stick built walls on top of the wall. Each garage door is 10' wide x 12' tall.

On the radiant heat, I used 2" foamular/250 psi foam, vapor barrier, and a 10 loop system. The boiler will be fired by propane. I also use an outdoor forced-air wood stove.

I had a group of Mennonites build the structure. Total nightmare. They misread plans continuously, none of the windows were level with each other, complete hack-job. On the second day of them putting on the tin, I fired them. They ran the J-trim going up-hill, over cut panels to where there were 2" gaps between the J-trim and panels, etc. They told me all the mis-cuts were fine, that it's only a shop. Needless to say, I didn't agree. Got really lucky, as I was able to find some guys who had worked for Morton buildings, who did a fantastic job. I will post pic's of the completed outside when I get the garage doors exchanged. They installed the 2 doors with 3 windows, but the middle window on each door is 4" off center.

I am doing the inside myself. After I complete the wiring, etc., I will put up white tin on the ceiling and walls, then complete the electrical in conduit. I did quite a bit of pre-planning and put my table saw dust collection/electrical under slab.

Wow...that sounds like it's going to be a wonderful workspace! I look forward to your continuing posts throughout the build.

Looking good. I am a bit envious as I am still in the planning stages.

A couple of questions.

1. What will you do with the floor?
2. Why white tin on the ceiling and walls? Cost or something else?

Thanks

Mark, the floor was finished very smooth with the ride-on trowel machines (they used 2 of them). I sealed it with a product called Sureshine. It looks polished. I am using the white tin/metal on the walls and ceiling for several reasons. In my old shop, I had a white metal ceiling and it was great. It reflected light well and no painting. I had OSB on the walls, unpainted, but desire white walls now. In my area, by the time I buy OSB and paint it white, it's just about as economical to use the white metal/tin. To me, it's easier to put up, no paint, etc. Just the J-trim, etc., which takes the longest, then since it's on the inside, screws without the rubber washers, and just line up and go. I know some people like OSB due to being able to put in a screw anywhere to hang stuff, and I liked that aspect of it too, but, I like the appearance of the white metal. I am working on the inability to hang stuff anywhere, thinking of using a vertical piece of strut every 5-10 ft. and develop a french cleat system. The strut will hold the d/c pipe, conduit, etc., so incorporating other uses for the strut will just take a little imagination and creativity.

A French cleat system would be ideal for that wall arrangement and bring the ultimate flexibility over time. Sometimes having the ability to drive a screw anywhere is a liability...because we do. :)

If built correctly you can even drive a screw in your french cleat setup.

Curious to see the unistrut cleat system that gets made.

Where are you located that you are still nice and green? Or was this last summer? What are you doing for insulation in the walls and ceilings? Is the frame square? If they couldn't get the metal right they seem pretty incompetent. An Amish crew did mine including the concrete. They did a great job. Floor shines without any sealer. Still needing to get power ran in. I hope to get that done before the ground freezes. I am considering the white corrugated metal as well. It may be the least expensive option for me.

Ronald, the concrete was started in the first week of September and took until the end of Sept. to get the floor poured, thus the green trees/grass. I am in SW Mo. The concrete delays were frustrating, but, I checked square when they were done, and it was 3/8" of an inch out when I cross measured it. The concrete contractor has the reputation of being the best in our area, so if you want his services, you know you take 2nd priority as his main contractors come first. I made sure the original framing crew kept it square/level when it was going up, and they did. When we put the roof metal on, it was simple, no "make it fit" pieces. It was just the original crew's metal cutting, and lack of paying attention to detail that didn't work out. I am just using regular roll insulation in the walls (2x6) and blown in insulation for the ceiling.

Also, the guys I hired to finish the tin, suggested on the inside metal, on the top 3 ft. of the walls, to use "acoustical metal". Never heard of it. They said it has the same rib pattern as the regular metal, but it has small holes in it, to help with the echo effect. Still researching that. The price for it is about the same per lineal ft. as the regular metal.

That's impressive as heck, that shop. I struggle inside a 20'x20' old barn, so I envy that pretty hard. ;)

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put my table saw dust collection/electrical under slab

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In a trough you can access, or just encased in a pipe or something? I'm sure you thought of it, but if you ever needed to replace things, I'd want a way to service it easily.

I thought hard about tearing down my building and putting up a new shop, but would have been in real trouble if my wife found it to be nicer than the house. Is your wife a woodworker?

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Originally Posted by Randy Henry

Also, the guys I hired to finish the tin, suggested on the inside metal, on the top 3 ft. of the walls, to use "acoustical metal". Never heard of it. They said it has the same rib pattern as the regular metal, but it has small holes in it, to help with the echo effect. Still researching that. The price for it is about the same per lineal ft. as the regular metal.

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This is a really good suggestion. You may still need further sound mitigation with absorbent panels to cut down the bouncing sound to a reasonable level, but that perforated paneling will help a lot with breaking up reflections. When you have a big space with a lot of hard surface...and lots of noise makers...sound mitigation really is important, IMHO.

Roy, the 6" d/c pipes are buried under the foam app. 4" down. All the electrical is 1 1/2" conduit buried at about the same depth, with pull wire in it. I had the same set-up in the old shop, and it worked great, hence, do it again.

She helps on big projects. In my retirement, I don't travel, etc. So, the shop is it. The only things she put her foot down on, was the porch and bathroom. Since the shop is app. 150 ft. from the house, she wanted some curb appeal.

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Originally Posted by Randy Henry

She helps on big projects. In my retirement, I don't travel, etc. So, the shop is it. The only things she put her foot down on, was the porch and bathroom. Since the shop is app. 150 ft. from the house, she wanted some curb appeal.

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Honestly, that's probably a wise decision to both make it attractive and provide some personal comfort. :)