Anybody got the JET sliding tablesaw?

We've decided we need a sliding tablesaw at the mesquite outfit. Not ready to plunk down several thousand bucks on a 'true' slider, but dollarwise, the 52" Xacta saw and optional slider sure seems like a deal (something around $2500).

Our primary 'want' for the slider is the ability to cut off the end of a tabletop or other large panel without getting out the straightedge guide and circular saw...even though I've become rather proficient at that. I'm sure the sliding table will handle a sheet of plywood quite nicely, but a 6/4" mesquite tabletop is just a tad more weight. We considered looking into a good quality panel saw, but another tablesaw is obviously more versatile (and maybe cheaper)...if the table will handle our needs. This will also allow us to make the Grizzly a dedicated dado saw...

I'm not looking for 'the specs say..' answers, but hands-on experience if there's any out there. What say?

KC

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Originally Posted by Kirk (KC) Constable

Our primary 'want' for the slider is the ability to cut off the end of a tabletop or other large panel without getting out the straightedge guide and circular saw...even though I've become rather proficient at that.

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Would a smaller saw (30") with a larger slider, like the big Excalibur, be better for this need? Rip capacity shouldn't be an issue, even for alternate tasks with the shorter fence system. More capacity to the left will help support the table tops, etc., better.

I have one of these things you speak of. The heaviest thing that I have put on it is a full sheet off MDF. I am not sure how much it weighed but it was ALL I could handle by myself. I don't know how that would compare to one of your table tops but the cut was square. The slider itself adds a lot of wieght to the LH side of the saw. So much so, that as part of the slider you get 2 L shaped rails to add at the base of the saw to keep it from tipping from the wieght of the slider and stock.

Kirk,

Mine is on order and will be here by the end of the month. I spent a lot of time on the forums and got feed back from a few that had the slider attachment. All who responded to my queries stated that it was easy to install, stayed square, and the fence was easy to remove and replace when ripping large panels was required. The only negative was that the
"legs" that stick out the side of the saw could be a trip hazard.

If you would like, I can contact you once mine is installed and I'll let you know if I think it would handle a very heavy table top.

Jay

Kirk,

Take a look at this. I don't know how good it is, but it sure is priced right.


http://www.rexma.com.tw/bapilon/sk-250ts.htm


48" crosscut
scoring blade
riving knife with upper DC port
small foot print
comes with 2 hp cannister type DC

Under $2000 ...... tempting, isn't it

I'm going to check it out at the Anaheim show.

Kirk,

I’m going to provide a slightly different perspective on this. It’s somewhere in-between “this is what the specs say” and “ my experience is” in terms of a sliding table saw.

I’m in the process of setting up my new workshop. Part of this is new Felder equipment, including a big sliding table saw/shaper. If you’re really curious to see the specs for comparison, it’s a KF700S Pro, with 10’ sliding table, 7.5HP motors and a bunch of other options I added in. I’m not posting this to gloat about it, but because there are some elements of this saw and why it performs that you should be aware of.

The Felder is a “format” style saw where the sliding table is right next to the blade as opposed to the “add-on” style sliders where the table replaces the left extension wing. The model I bought also has the larger and heavier duty articulating swing arm. The only saws that would be heavier duty (from Felder) are their new 900 series saws or their upper-end line called Format-4. The Format-4 is Felder’s competitor to saws like Altendorf. If I were spending the money it takes to get one of those saws, I’d probably consider the Altendorf or Martin first, but we’re talking $20K or more for a saw.

I participate in the Felder Owner’s Group forum. One of the threads was about sliding table deflection as heavy loads slid past the blade and whether deflection off of 90 degrees would occur. The concensus was that a large sheet of something heavy (ex. 4’x’8x ¾” MDF) might sag a little (talking millimeters here) on the outside end away from and before/after the blade, but that the stock at the blade would be square to the blade. The aspect of the saw that makes this possible is the heavy duty articulating arm.

So – what does this mean to you?

If you are looking at an add-on sliding table, if the table has no “outlying support” to hold up the end of your table opposite the blade, I think you’re asking for sagging problems. I’d ask the manufacturer if their table will perform as you need. An email should do, but I’d want their response in writing because you’re trying to handle some pretty heavy stock and I’d want recourse if I dropped a few grand and things didn’t work as advertised. If you go with the Jet style where a rail supports a triangular support arm, I’d ask about the outlying ends’ weight capacity. You could probably get around that by using an auxiliary support (rollers, etc.) that you set to the same height as the sliding table. If you decide to go with a saw that includes either the aftermarket (Excaliber/Exactor style) with legs to support the table, the question would be more about the sliding mechanism and the weight it’s designed to handle. If you look more at the new Powermatic true slider, ask about the arm’s weight capacity.

The idea of a vertical panel saw actually sounds pretty nice. If that approach doesn’t do what you want, consider the Festool saw and guide. Some of the other Felder owners have them and swear by them.

One other thought about a true sliding table saw. If you spend a lot of time jointing stock, a sliding table saw could radically cut the amount of time you spend doing that. Joint a face and plane to thickness. Then, flop the board on your slider, clamp it down and rip an edge. A single “cleanup” pass for that edge on the jointer and you’re done. You could also rip the edge right after jointing the face – you just want a flat face to lay on the slider’s table. Obviously, you need the capacity on your sliding table for the length of board you want to “joint”. By adding a little “edging shoe”, I’ll be able to make that jointing cut for boards up to 10 ½’ long. If most of your stock is about 8’, a standard 9’ or 10’ slider could cut some real time for you. If your stock is typically 12’, I guess you’re outta luck there.

Oh, I've never seen one, but from the picture that Kufo saw looks rather lightweight for my tastes. That is just an opinion based on working to setup my new saw/shaper vs. what I see in their picture.

Rob

Rob,

I also thought the Kufo saws looked a bit light.

I also noticed that they didn't list any weights. Everybody says what their product weighs.

Thanks for the responses. I understand that JET has a new sliding attachment out, and that's the one we're talking about...but haven't seen yet.

The Festool sounds like a good idea, but if I still have to take the time to draw the cut line and put a guide down, I may as well do it the way I'm doing it now. I'm sure the cut's not as clean with the Ryobi saw and Freud blade, but it's served us well for many, many tables.

A sliding table may not be the answer for cutting off tabletops. While that would be a wonderful thing to do with it, there's still plenty of reason we 'need' one...if you ever really 'need' something you've done without for several years...

KC

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kirk (KC) Constable

A sliding table may not be the answer for cutting off tabletops. While that would be a wonderful thing to do with it, there's still plenty of reason we 'need' one...if you ever really 'need' something you've done without for several years...
KC

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KC,

I actually think a sliding table saw would be do exactly what you want - provided it could handle the weight. If that's not the gist you got from my post, I'm sorry about that. The point I wanted to make was "not all sliders are the same" and "be sure the one you get can handle the weight" as you cut the end on a 6' or 8' table top.

It's probably also worthwhile for you to get a scoring slider. The scoring blade will guarantee a chipout free cut on the bottom side of the table top end.

I also think you'd use the slider for a lot of other things (like the jointing cut I mentioned) once you realized the saw's potential.

Rob