Some of these mixes are actually written into industry specs ,or so I've been told. I remember getting some beech mixed in with birch and being told a percentage that was allowed in specs.
Printable View
Some of these mixes are actually written into industry specs ,or so I've been told. I remember getting some beech mixed in with birch and being told a percentage that was allowed in specs.
I was thinking, all these threads about the proper wood for a bench. Wouldn't it be quicker to make a list of wood types the are NOT apropriate for a bench?
Let me start:
- Balsa, that one is obvious.
- Wester red cedar, probably really still too soft?
- Wenge, horrible to work with.
- Ebony, too expensive.
David K: I was under the impression that hickory and pecan were (speaking in botanical terms or genetically I guess) were "95%" (or something close) the same species at the cellular level and that it takes a close, experienced inspection to tell the two apart. I don't know, just asking from someone who does. What are the differences, especially in the working characteristics?
Hickory is 8% denser, about the same hardness, but quite a bit stronger and stiffer:
Modulus of Rupture: +20%,
Elastic Modulus: +25%,
Crushing strength: +16%
Pecan shrinks less by total volume but the T/R shrinkage ratio is not as good as Hickory at 1.8 vs. 1.5.
95% of measurable physical characteristics are not really close.
http://www.wood-database.com/pecan/
http://www.wood-database.com/shagbark-hickory/
Thanks for the links Stanley. One of the links describes "various species of hickory and pecan being mixed together and sold as hickory", which agrees with my previous (general, non-educated) thoughts about the differences. I will use those links in the future.
I cannot resist any longer, Is poplar popular for a workbench? :)
I made my base with fir and bought a maple top. Mine is a workbench top, kitchen counter tops work also. My top made as a workbench top.
My bench is stiff and has stood up to a lot of abuse. The members are 4x4 posts and 2X6 tee stretchers. The connections are all bolted connections. I chose fir over pine
because it is straighter. The bench is probably 20 tears old. I have a 2X12 maple front apron on it with 3/4 " holes for bench dogs and clamps. With the front vise on
one end dog holes in the front apron, I can clamp and hold anything. I cannot remember not being able to hold anything I wanted to work on.
I think design is more important than some other things. I can provide a cross section sketch of you want it. It might take a day or two to make the sketch.
Now that you have a bunch of support for using your poplar, I'll be contrary and say why put the effort into making a good bench and use less-than-ideal wood ? Wait until you can access some ash or soft maple and then you can build a bench that will last more than a lifetime. Compromising might cause you regret for a lifetime. Ash would be cheaper than maple. Because of all the disease-kill ash around you could so source your wood for around $300. The vise hardware will be the same regardless of the wood.
A compromise could be to make the base from thick poplar and the top from maple. I did this once and found the bench to be very durable and stable. My forever bench is all 12/4 ash with laminated legs and top.