Bandsaw - blade tension vs. blade qualtity

Just finished rebuilding my 18" bandsaw, replaced bearings and tires(rubber to urethene). The blades are too long as the result of all this - had one shortened twice. The tension gauge is now MORE of a relative indicator. I'm using a 1" 2 tpi blade and the tension indicator is greater than 1 1/2". Here is my problem. I resawed a piece of birch and the difference in thickness was less than 1/16" between the 4 corners of the board. Three corners were the same, the bottom, last thru the blade was less. I thought it was good to go. I then tried a piece of qtr sawed white oak. The difference was 3/16", the bottom, last thru being the offender. The top was straight cut and there was also some cupping from the blade. So, my question is do I need more tension or should I get another blade? The blade was new and I tried to keep a slow steady feed rate for both pieces. I can't adjust the tension any further, which might mean the blade is still too long - original 141 1/4" and now at 140 1/2 "

You need to give us the type of saw, type of blade. It may not be that the blade is too long but rather the spring compresses before the right tension is reached. There aren't many 18" saws that will properly tension a 1" blade. The blade might resaw OK as some blades and saws work while sharp even though not as tight as they should be. Have you put a tension meter on it to find out the real number? Dave

The saw is a Rikon 340 and the blade ? (not carbon tipped) I had it made at a saw sharpening place where I buy tablesaw blades (FStool) and Whiteside router bits.

Ron, did it work well before? Some blades aren't sharp even new and any dullness with a low tensioned blade will cause problems. Rikon owners will be more help here. I just know my Laguna LT 18- older model- would not tension a 1" blade with an upgraded spring. Dave

I would look at the fence for drift. Does the blade have enough set?

When you say you can't tension anymore are you saying the spring is bottomed out (coils touching) or? Do you know if the band is carbon or bi-metal? Does that saw list as a 142" like the newer version? The cupping usually indicates low tension but could also be a dull blade among a couple of other less likely things.

I didn't upgrade the tension spring, but it is almost bottoming out, the wheel is close to touching the bottom of encloser. The original spec. for the 10-340 is 142 1/2", so the rubber tires really make a difference. I have a second 1" blade, I will get that shortened more than the current (140")and retest. Yes, the saw worked before, but this is the first time I have tried to resaw oak. I have about 500 bfd of black cherry 8/4 blanks to resaw for a bedroom suite, do I best get this fixed, don't need anymore firewood.

How much difference do you think the tires make? Most saws handle a range of blade lengths so it would seem like the shorter blade should work. Have you tried to tension a narrower blade of the same or original length? Resawing oak will magnify problems. Dave

If the coils are that close to touching you are very near your maximum tension, no matter how short the blade is. If it is a carbon band you almost certainly have enough tension on it, do you have any idea of the type and gauge of the band? If you are getting a barrel cut that is almost always a tension issue.

Something that might be worth a shot would be to use a feather board just before the blade. I've had problems with the bottom of the slice being thinner than the top. A feather board seems to help.

Thanks for the assistance. When I get the other new blade shorten from 141 1/4 to 140", I will also find out the spec. on the blade. Note. at 141 1/4", I could not get enough tension on the blade where I was comfortable to turn the saw on. The feather board is a good idea. It's a little un-nerving to watch the blade, even with a push stick, as it approaches the end of the cut. Thanks again. Also, the blade is tracking such that resawing the birch was square, so the fence must be ok. About the cherry I meant planks.

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Originally Posted by Ron Hitchcock

Also, the blade is tracking such that resawing the birch was square, so the fence must be ok. .

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Are you resawing with a rough sawn face (non-flat) against the fence? This can also steer the blade as the position of the board changes with any warp or twist in the board.

Before you spend more money shortening the other blade, I would try a smaller blade to see if it makes a difference. A 1" blade takes a LOT to tension properly and even if your saw can handle it, it is probably going to be maxed out. Pick up a decent blade for $30 or so and see how that works. FWIW I run a 20" Delta and the biggest blade I use is 3/4" and have never needed anything more for re-sawing up to 13".

good luck,
JeffD

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Originally Posted by Jeff Duncan

Before you spend more money shortening the other blade, I would try a smaller blade to see if it makes a difference. A 1" blade takes a LOT to tension properly and even if your saw can handle it, it is probably going to be maxed out. Pick up a decent blade for $30 or so and see how that works. FWIW I run a 20" Delta and the biggest blade I use is 3/4" and have never needed anything more for re-sawing up to 13".

good luck,
JeffD

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I agree. A wider blade can be useful for resawing BUT you are always better off with a more narrow blade that is properly tensioned, bottom line proper tension is always more important than width. Certainly the best saws for resawing are those that give the ability to properly tension a wide blade, however those are not cheap when bought new.