Printable View
I got my new table saw together and generally well lined up.
- Fence to miter-slot +- 0.0025 (mostly variation in fence face)
- Blade @ 90* to miter-slot +-0.001 or 0.002 overall
- Blade @ 45* to miter-slot 0.0 at Front +0.004 at rear.
My question is; what is a reasonable spec for the Blade @ 45*. As you can see the blade is high at the rear by 0.004 is that reasonable or too much?
Shimming the trunnion is a unique (but completely possible) prospect when you add the 45 degree check into it.
You know that you twist the trunnion clock-counter clockwise to adjust the blade at 90 degrees. To make adjustments at 45 is to shim the front or back of the trunnion down. On a TS where the alignment tool is in the right slot and the top of the blade tips to the left, I believe that you shim the front down if the front is too close to the right slot and shim the rear down if the rear is too close to the right hand slot.
Wow - after what that saw went through, those are pretty impressive numbers :)
As Anthony said, you can start shimming, but that's a tedious, no-fun project. I'd use it like it is and see if you have any problems with it before messing with that.
Personally, I wouldn't worry about .004 over the exposed length of the blade. But if you want to try to chase it out, shims between the trunnion and the table (or between the cabinet and the table on a cabinet saw) will move the blade in the direction of tilt.Quote:
Originally Posted by James Combs
On a left tilt saw, adding shims at the front of the table will shift the front of the blade to the left (away from the right miter slot) and shimming the back will shift the back of the blade to the left.
On a right tilt saw, adding shims at the front will shift the front of the blade toward the right miter slot and shimming the rear will shift the rear of the blade toward the right slot.
I'd do some test cuts at 45 and see what happens. If it doesn't meet your requirements, shim it up.
You need alter the relationship of the top to the trunnion. On a saw with cabinet mounted trunnions the process is a little easier. On saws with the trunnion mounted to the underside of the table, it is a little trickier, but still possible.
What saw did you get?
Could I get you to toss my old Delta off the back of your truck next?
Nice work.
That is completely resonable, even not considering what your saw went through. I would like to see slightly better numbers BUT I would do some test cuts before I tried to do ANYTHING. No problem with the cuts and I wouldn't touch it.
Another for test cut first.. then make the call. If you can't distinquish any noticeable variance in the cut.. forget the numbers and put the saw to work. ;)
Check you results and then decide. I realigned mine during a shop re-org recently and it has been a real pleasure to use now. I have no idea what it was number-wise before but I got saw marks galore and now don't. I did find it much easier to do the shim deal without the fence and wings on. Once the other iron was added back on it need just tweak to make up for the load. Much easier than fighting the weight and access restrictions.
QUOTE=Anthony Whitesell;1391136]Shimming the trunnion is a unique (but completely possible) prospect when you add the 45 degree check into it...[/QUOTE]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Friedrichs
Quote:
Originally Posted by glenn bradley
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony Whitesell
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Veatch
It is the G0690 or the one folks are calling the flying Grizzly:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Peterson
The LOML said she would be going along on the next pickup.(to make sure I tie things down:rolleyes:)Quote:
Originally Posted by John Coloccia
Quote:
Originally Posted by Van Huskey
Guys I appreciate all your input. Most of you suggested trying it out first and see how it does so that is what I will do. However if it appears that adjustment is needed I will make the adjustment but shims will not be needed. For any of you that may have a G0690 or G0691 the rear trunnion has two adjustments for height of the rear trunnion slide. These adjustments will perform the same function as shimming the rear trunnion mountings. Take a look at the attached photo for future reference. The only negative with the adjustment is that you need a very thin(~3/16") 17mm open end wrench. The 18mm that comes with the saw will work but is pretty sloppy and therefore slow in making the adjustments but it will do in a pinch.Quote:
Originally Posted by John Thompson
The Green arrows point to the adjustment, the red arrows point to a locking nut that locks the adjustment in place once it is correct.
Sweet. You should be able to get adjusted in a very short time with that feature.Quote:
Originally Posted by James Combs
James, It Ain't BROKE anymore, so don't fix it! You may end up with other issues if you loosen everything to add shims. IMO, don't do anything, unless your test cuts are unacceptable.