I have several pieces of spalted silver maple. I sell everything I make and have found that just plain lacquer finish on spalted silver maple is like a sign that says "DON'T BUY ME." I like the subtleties of the grain, as it seems do most turners. But my customers are not usually wood turners.
So any ideas on making these more saleable. Thanks for your input.
I like oil on maple far more than lacquer. I use the Watch "danish" oil but have also used others. The oils do darken a bit but that helps to bring out the figure. I prefer the multiple application method and apply 6-10 coats over weeks, letting dry between each coat.
I like to sand a sample of the wood and try the finish before putting it on the piece. Sometimes I'll try 3-4 different finishes on the scrap before deciding.
I have no idea about selling. That sounds too much like work.
JKJ
This will take some research and experimenting on your part, but pipemakers, as in the smoking kind of pipes have been using leather dye for quite a few years to change the look of briar. Double and triple dye with using different colors has been perfected by them. First read what you can find, buy a few bottles of leather dye, and see what you can create.
I usually use one coat of watco natural on everything but holly. It comes in several colors--pops the grain and I shoot lacquer the next day.
Gary,
I've been experimenting with the alcohol based Angelus leather dyes. I'll sand to 220 and then apply a coat, let it soak in for 30 seconds or so, wipe off any excess. I use paper towels to apply and wipe off. After it dries (just a few minutes or less with heat) I'll sand lightly with 220 or finer paper to let some of the grain show through. You can then repeat this process a time or two if desired to get the look you want. You can also start with one color and then finish with another. The Angelus dyes are inexpensive and they frequently have sales at the Angelus website and they work well. I've found that sometimes if I sand finer than 220 to start that it can kind of burnish the wood and the dye doesn't absorb as well in some woods. All kinds of creative things you can do with dyes.
Jim
I've just started toying with aniline dyes, water or alcohol based and also colored stabilizing resin. I like the unpredictable results of wood stabilization. Spalted wood really is unpredictable..... The aniline dyes, the results are predictable. Sort of. It's like working with a stain. More color, more coats. The good thing about dye, you can wipe it off, and get less color. Also, you can blend/change/layer colors. Lots of artistic means there. Good luck!
If you decide to use dye, I would suggest only Transtint metal acid dyes or Procion MX cellulose reactive dyes. I believe you will find them to be superior to the aniline dyes in light fastness.
I also like to use lacquer on spalted woods, especially maple. What do you do to the lacquered piece after it's cured? A plain lacquered piece can look sort of plastic and I know from experience how people sort of shun those.
You could try cutting back the cured lacquer finish with very fine abrasive. The micro mesh sanding pads make that easy and you can take down the glassy appearance to any level you want.
It's still a film finish and doesn't feel as nice IMO as an oil finish. But it seems a good trade-off for appearance with some woods.
Scott
There is a gunsmith that uses homemade finish using boiled linseed oil that he treats again and adds Grumbacher's Oil Painting Medium III to the retreated BLO. It leaves a nice satin look. With this finish you can also have artists oils added for color. I haven't experimented with it yet, but I probably will sometimes in the future.
I use Chestnut Spirit Stain. If the grain is highly figured I start with the black dye and stain the outside of the turning. I then sand it back to where the black is only in the opened grained areas. I then pick the color that I want to use and dye it that color. I have used it on several of my turnings quite successfully. This is the method that Jimmy Clewes uses. I've attached a picture to show you the results.
Attachment 372810
What does it do to holly?Quote:
Originally Posted by robert baccus
I learned not to use it on cocobolo. I tried some once on cocobolo with beautlful gold, tan, and black. It turned the whole thing black as ebony in a short time (within a year.)
JKJ
Thank you all for the info. When I get to that point, I'll try to post a photo.
That's a really beautiful finish. I can't stop looking at it. Well done.
Is it lacquer over the top or something else?
Thanks Gary. It's a CA finish, about 20 coats.
I do as does steve Doerr! Quite a mouthful. if you feel like experimenting use red or blue or purple for your first coat, the different is subtle but always interesting!