Since I had so much fun doing my first hollow form I ended up doing a few. All were cut from the same log. This one is approximately 11X6" Finished with sprayed on lacquer.
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Since I had so much fun doing my first hollow form I ended up doing a few. All were cut from the same log. This one is approximately 11X6" Finished with sprayed on lacquer.
That log is giving you some nice wood and you are doing it justice. I like the form of this one. I am not sold yet on the bead around the top. In the smaller picture I like it but when I enlargen it I think it looks off. Probably just my view. Your finish is really nice looking. You should post a pic of your home made hollower too!
Thanks Adam. I went back and forth on the bead around the top myself. I'm also not really pleased with the larger opening on this one. Main reason the opening is larger is because while drilling out the center I didn't have an extension long enough on my Forstner bit to reach the bottom. I improvised by hollowing out the first few inches by hand making the opening large enough for the Jacobs chuck to enter then I was able to insert the entire quill on the tail stock to reach the desired depth.Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Petersen
I've got plenty of log left to do several more forms so I will attempt doing one without the bead next time.
I will try later on to take some pics of my hollowing system. It's basically a modification of the Jameison system but uses the original banjo to hold the trap. I had an extra banjo off of another lathe that I use for the rest at the front of the system.
I, too, like the shape, Daryl. I have to agree, though, that it would improve by losing the bead. :-)
That said, I can relate to making the opening large enough to accommodate the drill chuck.
Thanks for the critique Grant I appreciate it. I thought about putting it back on the lathe and turning the bead off but figured I better leave it the way it is. There's always next time!Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant Wilkinson
Daryl, I struggled with my forstner bit extension for drilling deep holes for depth and to get the hollowing started. I recently purchased an 18" long wood bit from Menards that is made for running wire. They have several sizes with I think 1/2" being the largest. These are on Amazon too, pretty common. I turned a handle for the bit and put a depth collar on it. Drilling out by hand to depth is really easy and you don't have to worry about the extension slipping or not being long enough. It's much quicker too. With the captured or articulated system making hollowing so much easier, the starter hole to depth is really all you need. Free-hand I see making the pre-drill hole the largest you can to hog out as much hollowing misery as you can. Just a thought. Not my own, I saw it on youtube I think.
Daryl, a couple of things from my perspective. I am not the best turner so take this as just my thinking. I agree that the bead my not be needed and the form seems to flatten out near the bottom. It appears that the flow would have made the base smaller which I think would have added to the overall shape. Drilling. I use modified 'speed' bits and when needed I can drill quite deep by adding extensions. The bits I use leave a round bottom hole, this allows me to drill to final depth and not have a sharp shoulder to contend with. Sure the wobble a little the deeper I go but I find them really a joy to use. Here's a link if you are interested.
https://woodbowlsandthings.wordpress...d-lathe-drill/
Thanks Adam and Peter. I definitely need a way to drill deeper and I will check out both of your suggestions. I did try a spade bit with extension but got way too much vibration.
I agree Peter, the base does "flare" out a bit which does take away from the flow. I was a little afraid to make the base smaller as I thought it would make it a bit top heavy.
Thanks again to you both for the tips and perspectives!
Daryl, a couple of suggestions to consider as you explore hollow forms. Ideally, you want the external surface to be flowing - with no flat spots or breaks in the curve. When creating the external curve - keep the rule of thirds in mind. While the rule of thirds is not absolute, it is a really good guide line. Example would be that the widest part of your vase should be at the 2/3s height position. The foot should be close to 1/3 the diameter of the form but you want to be sure to not match the size of the opening. If you notice - the foot and opening appear to be close to the same size because of the bead.
Using a bead to highlight the opening is a personal choice - some like them, some do not. In this case, the reason the bead doesn't work well is because it is not part of the curve. You have the bead sitting on top of a flat area which makes it appear separate and not part of the outside curve.
Using a drill bit to start a blank before hollowing is also a matter of choice, however, it should not be the determining factor in the design of your form. If you choose to drill, create the form first, then use a smaller drill bit.
I look forward to seeing your progression! Have fun!
Daryl, I do a lot of hollow forms and never use a drill bit to drill the center hole. I have a long 3/8" bowl gouge with a fingernail grind, and I start a small hole where I want it. With the tool rest just below center I push the gouge in and use it for a drill, usually turning the tool with the flute to about the 1 o'clock position. Works very well, and the hole is always straight and true. I do measure the depth first and make a mark on the tool for the stopping point - this works for up to 12".
Thanks Steve and Tom for the advice and tips.
I will try to remember the rule of thirds Steve it makes sense!
It's hard for me to visualize what I am working on in a horizontal plane. It always looks good until I take it off the lathe but when i stand it upright [vertical] it sure looks different. I suppose I could return a piece to the lathe after taking it off but i've never had much luck doing so. I may cheat next time and take a pic while its still on the lathe and rotate it.
I have several projects in varying stages of completion that I need to finish before starting a new project but I am chomping at the bit to try another hollow form. Bowls are fun and I enjoy turning them but hollow forms are so much fun!!
Tom, thanks for the tips, I will try doing it your way on the next round!