TS alignment outcome

Well after getting a micrometer as a gift I built a holder to use the micrometer in the miter slot. Well first was to check the relation of the table to the blade, this went pretty well. I was able to see that the blade/table was out by about .006 and was able to correct to about .001 using the trunnion mounts. Not to mention they were not very tight, I should have found this earlier.

On to the fence alignment. This saw is a Craftsmen about 5 years old I can't remember the model off hand, but I know it's not the quality of a good cabinet saw. Well I tried everything I could on the fence but could not get it too good, it would vary anywhere from .005 to .018 based on different tests. I made maybe 15 to 20 attempts to get it perfect but no luck. Based on the way the fence clamps it's hard to see how I can improve, as the cam tightens the far end of the fence is prone to moving as it tightens so I guess with this fence that is all I can do.

Is there anything else I can do?
Is this variance on the fence way out of line?

I'm not thinking of getting a new fence right now just want ot make the most of what I've got. So far the work I've been able to produce has been pretty good quality with patience and care.

Thanks,

You have discovered exactly why I replaced my original Craftsman fence with a Beismeyer! I have no regrets.

I read someplace that the Beismeyer is rated to a tolerance of 1/64th of an inch. At first that sounds good but that does translate to .0156 so is that really that much better?

I saw the Incra fence and those seem very accurate but the cost is high, what was the cost of the Beismeyer you went with?

I think I'll have to begin to keep my eye open for alternatives, maybe on sale, and make due for now.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Michael Merrill

I read someplace that the Beismeyer is rated to a tolerance of 1/64th of an inch. At first that sounds good but that does translate to .0156 so is that really that much better?

I saw the Incra fence and those seem very accurate but the cost is high, what was the cost of the Beismeyer you went with?

I think I'll have to begin to keep my eye open for alternatives, maybe on sale, and make due for now.

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Sounds like you are getting along so far. The fence moving as tightened can be quite frustrating. My Bies has some waves along its length and I am considering replacing the factory face as others have done. It has not caused me enough grief to warrant my time yet and those sorts of things will bring me to a halt until resolved if they are impacting quality. That said, I would forge ahead and keep an eye out for a good fence opportunity.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Michael Merrill

I read someplace that the Beismeyer is rated to a tolerance of 1/64th of an inch. At first that sounds good but that does translate to .0156 so is that really that much better?

I saw the Incra fence and those seem very accurate but the cost is high, what was the cost of the Beismeyer you went with?

I think I'll have to begin to keep my eye open for alternatives, maybe on sale, and make due for now.

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I bought my fence over 12 years ago when Biesmeyer wasn't owned by Delta. My fence is flat within .005" along its length. Remember you are working with wood so tolerances aren't nearly as important. +/- 1/64" is normally satisfactory for wood assembly. Alignment of the blade to the miter slot is the most critical and if the fence is within .010" over the length you should be good for most cutting operations as long as the fence is consistent every time it is used. However, you'll probably never see that consistency with your Craftsman fence at least I never did. I had to check every adjustment which got to be a major part of what I was doing when making projects.

With the Biesmeyer I can move it a little closer or farther from the blade, lock it down and be assured it is still aligned parallel to the blade.

You didn't say, is the variance in the fence such that the back end is FARTHER from the blade or closer? If its closer thats a big no-no, if farther out I have read that some people actually prefer that it be out .005 or as much as .01, but .018 is probably too much.

Next question is is the fence straight, ie the variance linear? A bowed fence *might* be straightened with a sacrificial face. The face could also be shimmed to correct the toe-in or toe out... Rockler sells some special clamps for sacrificial fences that I bought. They are similar to the clamps on the Delta unit and they seem to work well.

Is this the Ryobi made saw? I had the Ryobi BT3000 for many years and the fence and slop in the sliding table were the primary reasons I upgraded to a Jet.

With the Biese clone that came on my General TS, I found it was more functional with the fence running out just a tad from parallel (.015'ish) with the blade. It was rock solid when locked in position (ie little or no deflection), but always seemed to want to pinch & left nasty burn marks.
Anywho, the Biese clone is gathering dust since the Incra TS & RT system followed me home from a show a year or so ago.
Save your pennies for a good fence system regardless of brand. Some like the incremental style positioners like Incra or Jointech.... I know I like mine and won't be without it now. If the General saw goes down the road, the Incra stays & the clone goes back on.

Greg

Good point about the fence being out in what direction? It is out at the blade away from the blade, so it isn't creating the binding that would be prone to burn and kickbacks. The idea of a secondary fence to make up for the standard fence is a good idea I may play with in time.

for now given the blade to miter slots are now on, I'll give it a bit of a work out to see how things are then make some assessment. From what people re saying here maybe my variance isn't too bad and acceptable for most work.

This is my opinion. The ultimate combination when cutting wood is to joint one side, then cut the board at least 1/4" oversized, then let it sit and settle, or go right back in and joint one edge again, after the tensions in the board at the new thickness have revealed themselves, and then go back and make your final cut to size.

That final cut can be set perfectly and can be cut with a blade that does not leave saw tooth marks in the wood. The enables you to get a perfectly even, mirror smooth finish, ready to be mounted on an exposed surface, with only a light sanding with lets say 220 grit.

The alternative is to overcut your piece by a 32nd or so, and rejointer it to a smooth surface. The problem is that jointers do not take off wood evenly. Sometimes the leading edge removes material more aggresively than the trailing edge. So you could have a board that is a little, and I emphasize a little, wider on one end then the other. The other problem is that it is harder to maintain even pressure on a jointer then it is to get an even cut on the table saw, not to mention that featherboards are an option, although not neccessary. Additionally marking a line on a board to joint is difficult to get it just right with a jointer. So the first way I mentioned, by getting your saw right is the ultimate solution.
The other alternative is to take out deeper saw tooth marks with a sanding block and something rougher than 220 grit. The possibility of changing the angle of the cut ever so slightly, or rounding over an edge, or creating a slight belly in the wood edge becomes apparent. Depending on the application, that may or may not matter, but it does change the thickness of the wood. So once again, getting the saw just right not only makes the cut go easier, it is a time saver in the sanding department.

I am not going to mention products for a change, but rather only reflect on the requirements to get the result.

You need a perfectly flat fence, by whatever means is neccessary to get a perfectly level surface.

Then you need a motor with sufficient power so you can use a blade with more teeth to produce a glass smooth cut. Plus with the additional power you do not have to concentrate on your feed rate, to compensate for the motor slowing down. You have the freedom of adjusting your feed rate to take away material fast enough so as not to go too slow and burn the surface, and yet slow enough to get a really smooth edge.
There is nothing quite so beautiful then to go from table saw to glue up with a perfectly smooth, saw tooth markless cut, that is perfectly straight, and even its entire width.

Getting the fence perfectly straight and aligned with the blade/miter slot is super critical as well. Without it you are in danger of hurting yourself, because you are either having to force the wood through the cut, because 1) The back end of the blade is fighting to accomodate the expanded size being created from the wider trough of the front edge of the blade, or 2) You are fighting the workpiece from drifting away from the fence, because the leading edge of the blade is closer to the fence than the trailing edge, and that is creating a wedge that will slide across the blade, pulling the workpiece away from the fence. Then you are at war with the workpiece, burning the wood, and worse yet, you are fighting to keep the drifting workpiece tight to the fence, then combine that with a slippery push stick, and fingers can go missing.

I know this doesn't exactly answer your question about what to do with your fence, but it sheds some light on just how important it is to get it right.

I had an old Craftsman fence, and I noticed that when you tightened it to the table, as in lowering the locking arm, it would shift the setting. So what you need to do is push the fence tight against the table, measure the difference, front and back of the blade, get exact measurements with your new toy, and then tighten the fence with the locking arm, and take those measurements again. Then deduct the difference from your result, and you will know exactly how to set the fence by just holding it against the table to eliminate play again. In plain words, this is a method to figure out how much of a change the fence makes when locking it, and adjusting it to compensate for the shift.

Sorry for talking so much, I just haven't figured out how to say a few words, and explain so much. Not that everyone doesn't instantly know what I am talking about. As a matter of fact, they already know what I am talking about, and recognize it. I love to write. A long time ago the phrase came into my head, "Only the expressions are original, the thoughts lie within us all".

Well using the TS yesterday for some rips and cross cuts the saw did seem easier to feed, not tough material but no burn or binding. I think getting the blade to table set was a good thing that will help to translate into my cross cut sled working better.

Amazon and Lowes both sell a Delta fence (Bies knock off) for $150. The fence consistently gets rave reviews. That might be the best solution for the OP.

Lets all hope that Delta does not come to their senses and raise the price on this gem.