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OK, Before you all think that I have completely lost it. I know that I have turned lots of pens over the years. At one time I even sent some to the Freedom pen project but now that I have left and then returned to turning I can't seem to get that really nice high gloss long lasting shine back.
Currently I sand to 600 grit, apply CA and let harden then resand to 12000 grit. Apply heat active wax until it shines.
Would you share your secret pen finish with me?
That is the same I do when using CA. I just recently tried using deft sprayed onto the blanks. This is built up in layers, let harden, micro meshed to 12,000. Leaves a nice glossy finish and less fingers stuck together. John
I'll post some pics of the Deft finished pens in a few days.
Couple of things.
When you ask a question like this you already know that you're going to get at least one answer per each respondant, right? :cool:
A hint that I think I picked up here at the creek is to use plastic packing foam to apply the CA glue. Smoother application, less waste due to absorption.
When I do a Freedom Pen Project or a public demo, I've come to highly respect the Mylands Friction Polish. I can get pens to a pretty hard finish pretty quickly so that they are handle-able. Not all friction polishes work so well, I assure you! You can imagine how I know that. :)
Quick two coats of carnauba wax and buffed to gloss to finish.
My major finishing secret is actually to go through my sanding grit regime and to stop the lathe and sand with the grain on every other grit, especially with the final sanding.
And my latest secret is that I've taken to wet sanding my first coat of finish with my final sandpaper grit (I usually do not go beyond 400 or 500 grit). Works really great with porous woods like oak and walnut. Smooooooooooth finishes. Lots of ooohs and aaahs from this little trick. Except from the woodturners. They don't ooh or aah, but they ask "How'd you do that???!!??" Now you know, but, don't tell anybody. ;)
It can vary from wood to wood. With open grained woods, I fill the grain first. I sand to 400.
Most of the time, I start w/ BLO and then medium CA. I alternate thru five or six layers. I try to make sure it is dry to the touch before I put a new layer on. I use the papertowel method. I let it cure overnight before sanding. I run thru all the MM grades.
On light colored woods, I skip the BLO and just use CA. The same with antler.
I recently saw a demo with a different technique that I am trying out. So far, so good but I am slow to change.
Of course, the next twelve responses will have twelve different techniques. I have had it be cloudy when I tried to put it on too thick or too fast. Moisture can make it cloudy too.
Then Beall buffed. As per "woodturner Russ.com tutorial fir CA. I never sand beyound 600 wet or dry, and use White diamond as the final buff. The trick is to make sure you have enough finish to fill the pores, sand lightly with the 600, wet and then buff. If you can see pores you need more finish. most times two coats will do it. Good luck. :)
Bob
I go one step past White Diamond and finish with an Automotive "swirl remover". Perfect glass smooth finish every time.
GK
I do what Greg does...Once you get done with MM to 12000, you have to polish...I use a cheap one from Auto Zone and finish up with Novus 2 and they are spectacular.
John G
I never thought about using the beall buff. How do you hold on to those small pen parts while buffing? It's difficult enough trying to hold on to a bowl.Quote:
Originally Posted by robert hainstock
I buff mine before I take it off the mandrel and hold it almost straight up and down.
Thanks for all the suggestions. You have been a lot of help. I wanted a lot of different ideas and I got them.