Finish for pyrography project with colored pencil

Finally, I found a place to get some answers instead of having to derive them from various sites. Let's just say I'm tired of googling.

As a fun project I created a pyrography design on a wooden TV tray and then colored it with colored pencils. Now I need to protect the design and leave it usable as a TV tray. I have no clue what kind of wood it is, we'll just have to say it came from a Wal-Mart tree. I think, from various articles read, I need to spray acrylic to protect the colored pencil. The issue is that I also need to put on an additional finish that will render a clear flat glassy surface so food won't get caught in the pyrography lines and won't interact with the acrylic spray. I would like a matte or satin surface as I am not a fan of glossy. This is a first-time simple project but, I do not want it ruined due to an improper finish. Does anyone have any suggestions as what I should use to protect the colored pencil and provide a flat eating surface?

Krylon and others make spray cans clear acrylic finish in matte, satin, etc. sheen. That will seal and protect the surface of your tray; no need for anything additional. You may want to start out with the gloss sheen and then switch to matte or satin for the last one or two coats. That approach will give you the sheen you want as well as maximum clarity.

John

Thank you John. But, since the woodburning creates grooves in the wood, I really need an additional finish that will fill in the grooves and create a smooth glass-like surface. I've used the acrylic spray on other types of projects and I don't think it will fill in the grooves without many, many applications. It could be that I don't need the acrylic spray to protect the colored pencil. Acrylic was recommended on other websites over colored pencil art. I am unaware of a pourable acrylic and am concerned about interactions if I use a different chemical base.

Kimberly,

First, I recommend that you spray the work with shellac (the Zinsser spray can is dewaxed shellac, which is what you need.) The shellac should adhere well to the colored pencil but definitely try this first on scrap. Filling with clear finish sounds to me like a job for two-part epoxy. I have used West System and Max Clr to finish wooden drinking mugs. Since the epoxy cures chemically, thick places cure well, unlike varnishes. Max Clr is advertised as food safe, although I doubt that matters much for a tray. Both Max Clr and West System dry to a high gloss, but normally they are not completely self-levelling. You will have to level and polish the surface. They work really well after they have cured, however. You can scrape it and sand it and polish it to as high a gloss as you like. There are also products sold for decoupage, which I think are epoxies. They may level better. Theoretically, you can thin the resin with acetone to make it flow better, but I have not tried that.

Doug

Thank you for your suggestions. I actually hadn't considered using shellac. I used it many decades ago on decoupage and it turned yellow when it dried. Hopefully, things have improved since then. I have also used the two-part epoxy. I wasn't sure what to use to protect the colored pencil and not get a cloudy finish from a chemical reaction to a leveling finish. I did some research online and couldn't find a non-glossy epoxy finish. Guess I'll have to settle for protecting the art with a glossy finish.

Kimberly,

You are welcome. The Zinsser shellac in the spray can is as blond as it gets (pretty much). You will not need a very thick coat to act as a barrier, so I don't expect it to change the color of the work noticeably. You can get as much or as little gloss as you want with epoxy, depending on the grit of the abrasive you finish with. I strongly recommend that you test the finish schedule on scrap.

Doug

I'm going to cross my fingers and give it a try. I'll let you know how it goes. It may be awhile since I've started another project for my sister.

~kimberly

Clear grain filler, one brand is Crystalac, might be a good thing to try. I would do tests over samples prepared the same as your project. I would lightly seal with blonde shellac or a clear acyrlic coat.