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Has anyone had any experience with the Alaskan Chainsaw Mill? Right now I have 5 logs to be sawed,and it seems there is almost always something available for free or almost free. I just thought it would be as easy to saw on the spot as it is to take to a sawmill.I know I would need a bigger chainsaw than I have now(Stihl 029),but I think I can trade for a used 066 for $300-$350. Thanks in advance for any information you can give me.
I used one for a while. It is one way to mill logs and get some good wood, but it is wasteful of the wood because of the thick kurf. Look for a skip tooth ripping chain made especially for milling wood. It speeds up the process but is still slow. If you can get lots of prime logs you would be much better off to find someone with a portable mill who will cut on the shares.
I have used one owned by a friend.
Know this before you start...
1) a rip chain is essential. Make that two, as one will be dull after about 5 logs.
2) you need the largest saw the mill allows.
3) the hardest part is determining the depth of the first cut. The mill that a friend owns requires two 2x4's placed vertically on the edges of the top of the log. The mill is run along the top of the 2x4's to make the first cut, then you have a flat surface to run it on for the rest of the log.
4) you need two people to run the thing at all times. One runs the saw, the other hangs onto the mill and helps guide it along. The saw will bog down, and will require frequent oiling.
5) with 2 people, you should expect to do one log about every 2 hours.
6) as has already been said, there is a lot of waste in the kerf.
I am not trying to discourage you, but it is a lot of work. If you can find someone who owns a woodmizer, you might have better luck with that.
Jim,Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Kilburg
I asked about chain saws and mini-mills a few weeks ago and got lots of good info. Here's the link to the thread. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=11951
HTH,
Tom
The only thing I would add to the above, is most chain saws are not made for the type of use these mills put them through, i.e. running full bore all the time. Just be aware and factor that into your cost.
hey jim - must admit that in my younger days i cut 1000's of bf with a chainsaw mill - it is LABOR INSTENSIVE - but we got some great lumber.
our unit was a 36" bar with a stihl 090 on each end. suggest you have a spare ripping chain and a sharpener that can run off a car battery (we were way out in the woods) - it seemed that there was just miles of chain to sharpen.
we developed a pretty slick way to set up the 1st cut - no matter how long the log is. if you want more infor you can e-mail me and i'll try to xplain.
happy sawing
jerry
Here's another one you should look at:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...highlight=beam
A huge amount of work!! I own one as well as a Stihl 066. The second largest saw they made at the time purchased. I use a 36" bar and rip chain. Keep in mind the weight of saw as well as the working height of your log. Bent over all day working on one or two logs wears me out. I run the mill by myself so some help might remedy some of that problem. Smaller hardwood logs and pine etc are "do-able". Large hardwoods are better taken to a bandsaw mill. Keep in mind you lose 3/8" with the saw kerf then up to another 3/16" to 1/4" off each side of the board to get it flat. It is almost a two for one ratio compared to BS mill by the time you finish. Questions: How much is your time worth? How much is your back worth? How much is the lumber worth? How much of an investment are you willing to make? (the saw can run $1000 or better)
Hope this helps.
Martin Is thethe Martin Lutz that lived in the Tyler, Texas area and was a member of the NTWA. If it is it is good to know you are still cutting wood.
Dan Henry still in Texas and going to the NTWA meetings
HI Dan. I do miss NTWA a lot. I am starting an association here shortly. Not that the Creek doesnt give enough mental stim. I am still milling lumber occasionally but not like I did in Tyler. Colorado is long on mountains and short on hardwoods. I am trying some Cottonwood. It will be interesting to see how that comes out. Tell NTWA hi for me.
Martin,
What do you think of Aspen wood? I've seen some big ones there.
Jim,
One other thing to save you time...seal the ends of the log first before cutting and you may wish to mark it so that you can put the log back together at the end.
I agree with Martin that it is brutal, earsplitting work...and also hard on those expensive saws. But I wouldn't hesitate to do 5 logs.
A handle on the bar tip helps a whole bunch so a helper can assist.
You'll also need a couple ripping chains....and the bigger the bar and saw....I run a 36" bar on a Stihl 046....the better.
But you can hump it all in to sites you can't get the sawmill to for those few pieces of expensive "music" wood....that's one of the reasons so many are out there among the pros.
There is no shortage of these used on Ebay and other places after folks find out their homeowner-model Poulan, their back, and their ears can't stand the gaff....so look around.
Chris, Aspen is beautiful and you are right, there are some big ones. I paneled my shop with Aspen 1 X 6 Tand G. It looks awesome. Pics to follow when I get the whole picture thing figured out. Also, I use a lot of it for firewood. I havent used any for furniture yet. I think it will make nice panels but I plan to stay away from anything structural. I have seen some beautiful turnings out of Aspen. --- BTW I think it would be a tree I would do with the Alaskan Mill.
newbie sawyer here from Durango CO... I'm learning loads reading through these threads but have not seen the question addressed that I'm trying to answer.
First, the details: got some ponderosa pine sections to mill... 12'x36" is the widest of about 5 sections of the 100'+ tree. My Timbery mill will handle 24" max. I got an alaskan guide used from a buddy a long while back, though never used it. Got a Stihl MS290 (3.8HP/56cc) chainsaw w/ 20" bar, just ordered (3) WoodlandPRO ripping chains for it.
Since my bar is only 20" (and I understand that I will actually get less than that using the alaskan guide, right?), can I make a cut from either side of the log to complete the slab cut to make a total cut of about 28"?
this is how I figure it might go:
Use shims on side of first cut, that won't get in way of second cut (width of chain cut).
Since I have only a few of these width logs to cut, and seeing as I'll never haul these size longs again on my trailer (that was scary!), I do not want to buy a new chainsaw or hire someone to do it. I called around, No one rents a saw bigger than mine around my town, let alone w/ a ripping chain on it. So, I'd like to do this with my Stihl MS290.
I suppose I'm asking for advice, thoughts, and ideas on this proposed method, OR a better way to go about getting these logs down to size?
well after more thought I answered my own question... DUH! I realize bar must go through entire log b/c end of bar IS attached to other end of alaskan mill. so I guess a few diagonal cuts might work. Any other ideas?