Troubleshooting a Jointer Plane

Hi Folks:

I'm getting some puzzling behavior from a Stanley Bailey #8, type 11, that I'm fixing up. The plane had been painted a handsome shade of gold, with maroon accents, so it was only $30 :). That was quickly remedied, and otherwise it is in great shape. I wonder if the larger numbers didn't see much use?

At any rate, I'm a novice, but I have fixed up quite a few similar planes; I'm not a great sharpener, but I can get a blade sharp. Here is the issue:

* blade almost instantly gets a burr on the flat side of the blade; I'm planing some soft midwestern spalted mystery-wood for table legs; after 6-7 passes, I start getting a burr
* plane can function well: I've gotten it to take fine shavings that are 2 to 3 feet long
* plane contains a stock blade, sharpened at 30 degree bevel, with a 35 degree micro bevel
* this happens with my #8, but not with my #5 or #6 (which are set up basically the same way)

I'm puzzled where to check. Of course the blade, but I sharpen this the same as my other tools. Would you suspect:

* sharpening problem?
* physical blade problem
* plane problem?
* something else?

Thanks for your help!

The blade has soft steel. At 35 degrees it is getting all the help it can, and this is still not enough.

The wire edge reveals that it is bending as it is used. It remains sharp enough for long enough to make a few decent shavings, then it is done.

Either re-temper the blade, or get a replacement.

Regards from Perth

Derek

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* this happens with my #8, but not with my #5 or #6 (which are set up basically the same way)

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If your #5 and #6 act different in this particular wood, then I am with Derek and suggest the blade is the problem.

Some woods can be murder on a blade, but it will be equally murderous on all blades of the same type.

jtk

Derek's diagnosis is spot on, but retempering the iron won't help at all. Tempering softens tool steel that has just been hardened, or is too hard.
If you are set up to reharden the iron, that would be worth a try; you certainly have nothing to lose. After that, you can progressively temper it, starting around 300° and working up until it's just right.
If you're not set up for hardening, just buy a new iron.

Hi Everyone:

Thanks for your help, it will prevent me from going around in circles trying to fix things....

Just to clarify: is this softness a general characteristic of vintage irons, or rather is the suggestion that this particular vintage iron is too soft, or has developed a defect.

Thanks again, your all's experience is always helpful.

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Just to clarify: is this softness a general characteristic of vintage irons, or rather is the suggestion that this particular vintage iron is too soft, or has developed a defect.

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It is most likely "this particular vintage iron."

The quality control was not at its best in the early part of the 20th century. I have a pair of blades from the type 11 time period. One is easy to hone and get back to work. The other is extremely hard and takes a bit more time to hone.

jtk

Before chasing a replacement - have you stropped the blade you have after sharpening?

I would suggest grinding it back a bit too before getting a new blade. Granted this sounds like an old iron but I would give that a shot first

Please don't take this the wrong way, but is the bevel on the right side? Logo facing out/up? If it is a laminated iron this is extremely important.

But I agree it's probably a dud iron.

I certainly would not attempt to re harden the blade without first completely grinding away the bevel. If you do not,the blade will definitely warp across its width. This is because there is a difference in surface area between the beveled side and the flat side of the blade. One side will cool more quickly in the quench and suck the iron into a curve.

In fact,re hardening the blade and re tempering it may do no good if the blade was not made from good steel to begin with.

Unless you are very familiar with hardening tool steel,know the right colors to heat it to,etc.,I think the best thing to do would be to just get another iron. Another Stanley,or an upgrade iron from a current maker.

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Originally Posted by Judson Green

Logo facing out/up? If it is a laminated iron this is extremely important.

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Good catch. An elemental question, which escaped me.

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Please don't take this the wrong way, but is the bevel on the right side? Logo facing out/up? If it is a laminated iron this is extremely important.

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Like Jim M. this slipped by. It also might not be the first time the logo was stamped on the wrong side of the iron.

jtk

I suppose you could have a factory bad blade, but it might just as easily be the case that some previous user got it too hot while grinding it. If it were mine, I'd check the hardness of the flat face or non-bevel side with a fresh file. If the iron is properly hard, the file should just skitter off - or at best only barely bite. Check at 1/8 and 1/4 inch away from the edge. If you should decide to re-harden and temper the blade, you would be well advised to anneal it first.

Jim

He who welds steel with flaming pine cones may accomplish anything!​

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Originally Posted by Judson Green

Please don't take this the wrong way, but is the bevel on the right side? Logo facing out/up?

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Yes, but thanks for asking, no offense taken!

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Originally Posted by Jim Matthews

Before chasing a replacement - have you stropped the blade you have after sharpening?

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I do strop on a piece of MDF with green stuff on it. Could that be causing issues?

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Originally Posted by george wilson

Unless you are very familiar with hardening tool steel,know the right colors to heat it to,etc.,I think the best thing to do would be to just get another iron. Another Stanley,or an upgrade iron from a current maker.

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I think you are certainly right here; for an amateur (me) this would be way over my head to try and save the $20 for an iron.... "Honey, what happened to our kitchen?" "Well, you see...."

If a previous owner used a grinder to bevel the iron, they may have overheated it and ruined the temper. If the iron is long, you may be able to remove material to get to good steel. Google this so you don't repeat the overheating. I would buy an iron.