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I was REMINDED that most of my mistakes happen at the end of day, especially when I'm in the mindset of " I'll just get this much more done today, so I'll be ahead tomorrow."
On this project I was cutting window stools. I used test pieces to figure the offset of the casing, the wing of the stool beyond the casing and then added that x2 to my window width measurement. Cut one, did the returns, and happy with the way it looked and fit, measured the other windows and started my cut list as I went. Problem was that I put the width and a +, but forgot to add the trim x2 before I cut . . . . Even though I kept looking at my cut list for each length before sawing . . . . . This, of course, was at the end of the day. Why the "+" sign didn't jump out at me I do not know, but doubt it is because my ADD suddenly went away . . . .
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I haven't picked up any new bits of sage old shop wisdom lately, but my latest projects are introducing me to new techniques that I'm hoping to make more regular use of. Based on what I was able to glean from a number of videos and written instructions, I recently built a router jig for creating ellipses. In addition to building the jig itself, I've learned that a 1/4" shank, 1/4" upcut spiral bit works a lot better for routing out a shape than a 1/2" shank, 1/4" straight cutting bit. I'm not sure why yet, other than the obvious application of too much force, but the straight bit broke after nearly completing my third 22" x 12" cutout (the bit was one of four in a Rockler straight bit set). I was hesitant to use the 1/4" shank upcut bit as an alternative, thinking that it would snap off even faster. But maybe I was more cautious the second time around, or that upcut bit (a Freud) was just better quality because it worked out just fine.
I'm also going to be doing a little steam bending over the coming weekend, creating a solid banding/rim using either ash or Doug fir to wrap around the outside of the ellipse cutouts (I'm using them as shelves for a cat tree). I recently purchased an Earlex steamer and am going to build a box for it this weekend along with a couple of forms and then give it a try. If that works out, then I've got a few other projects lined up that will help me learn my way up to bending parts for a couple of kitchen counter stools that I've been wanting to build.
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I just learned today to wait till it stops snowing to plow it off or you will have it to do over. About 8" of new plus 3or4" of old and 6 degrees this AM
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Never to say "sure, I can do that"
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Always use enough glue. Too much wipes off, not enough causes the project to fall apart.
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. . . . and, given my skill level (or lack thereof), that it would be foolish to give up my day job.
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I learned about pocket holes! Not fine woodworking, but they have a place. I needed a shelf in the shop and made a nice looking one in 1/2 the time I normally would have spent. No need for clamping and waiting for glue to dry was the real time saver. Admittedly, I could have moved on to another project and come back after glue dried, but I didn't have to wait. The immediate gratification was a bit like woodturning.
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I learned there is a reason why electricians say to keep your bends in a run of conduit to 360 degrees or less...
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The undermount drawer slides I used require a 1/2" gap between the bottom of the plywood and the bottom of the drawer side. This is a the first time I used undermount slides. I always used side mount slides and a 1/4" gap. It cost me some time and material but I won't make that mistake again.
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Using thin CA leaves a stain much wider that the crack that is next to imposible to remove.
What do others use for external cracks?
I bought my glue on Klingspor, so I do not suspect a quality issue.
Am I waiting too long to resand?
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This is an excellent thread! Actually a good tutorial.
If you find yourself rushing to complete a project, especially one that is detailed, has involved a lot of work & includes expensive materials, STOP! Take a breath then take your time. Otherwise, you'll only increase the chances of mistakes or failure. Not a good feeling when/if this happens.
When installing splines to reinforce miter joints, make the fit too tight can be detrimental. Allow adequate clearance for a glue film on each side and be sure the spline is seated all the way to the bottom of the kerf during/after gluing. There is a tendency for the spline to resist seating all the way & spring back out. This can be helped by not gluing the internal edge of the spline and/or mating surface. Clamping the splines in place with a large rubber band is helpful.
Use a palm router for mortising hinges.
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If I have not done a particular task in wile. I need to do a few practice runs before the real one.
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...that I am allergic to epoxy!! :eek: