I just bought the Knew Concept fret saw, and I don't like it.

I am teaching myself to cut dovetails by hand and it is a slow progress. I am at the point where the glue will hide some imperfections.
My problem is that I am slow, even in a good day I am slow.

I decided to buy the fret saw to speed up the process. I got it this wednesday and I went to try.

I didn't see a major improvement from my regular coping saw. The fret blade flexes a lot more than ⅜" making my cut difficult.

Well, I did the logical thing. I increased the tension and went to cut, it cut better the first pin, the second pin was flexing a lot and the tension mechanism got loose. No, not the blade, the blade was tight.

I went back to the instructions, videos, etc same problem. The lever still engaged in the top position, but there is no tension.
I had to go to the whole process to install the blade, even it is the same blade. I make it ping really good with my finger so I know it is good tension. 2 cuts later is loose again.

It is going back to Highland. I know it is a defect and it doesn't mean all of the saws are the same, but first impression counts a lot.

Do you guys have a similar experience?

No problems here, and I can't figure what would cause your problem.

It probably works for some and doesn't for others!

I like my $15.00 Olson (I think) from Tools for Working Wood. I like it so much in fact I bought a second one, so one can have the blade cast off to the right on one and the other to the left, so I never have to adjust when I wasting DT's with it. The blades (can't remember which I have, but they were the recommended blades) work just fine. This style of saw has been around forever and has served craftsmen very well for the same length of time, which is many decades.

Fortunately for you, since your saw has been talked up up sufficiently by bloggers, you can either return or sell it without much loss. But if you get a replacement, please try one of the saws that have been serving the rest of us for ever and post here if there difference was really worth it.

I had one for a while, just an aluminum fretsaw (5" type), and it seemed like an expensive solution to a cheap problem.

I went back to a $20 german style fretsaw and two coping saws that total $25 (one push and one pull).

Never had any problem.

Oh, yeah, I use a chisel. :p

https://www.flickr.com/photos/chevy_...57607001006126

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Originally Posted by Tony Zaffuto

I like my $15.00 Olson (I think) from Tools for Working Wood.

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Same here. Personally, I've had no reason to or desire to use anything else.

Hi Fidel

I have used a few - slight variations in design over the years as a few years ago now I had helped get the fretsaw off the ground. However my experience has been limited to titanium, and I cannot comment outside this type. None of the ones I have flexed in use. All the KC fretsaws have been an advance on the vintage types I used in past years.

It would be easier to comment if you explained how you used the fretsaw, and whether you have used any fretsaw before. Notwithstanding the stiff frame, the KC fretsaw is still able to flex if used with a heavy hand. Everything has proper technique. And then you may indeed have a dud.

A year ago I completed a combined review/test of the latest version of the KC. This looked at technique, but also at the frame stiffness. It is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...geFretsaw.html


Regards from Perth

Derek

Paul Sellers also questions the need for a high end coping saw
https://paulsellers.com/2014/11/copi...ws-and-blades/

(I realize not everyone is a fan of PS)

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Originally Posted by Sean Hughto

Never had any problem.

Oh, yeah, I use a chisel. :p

https://www.flickr.com/photos/chevy_...57607001006126

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For some reason the video stops after a few seconds. I guess the server is busy, I will try later.

Fidel, don't waste your time. The video is just a trifle. I posted a link cause for a few seconds in it, I'm chopping out some DT waste. Sorry to distract.

I used a fret saw before, but I have used a coping saw more often.
I let the saw to make the cut, I am used to my japanese saws and with them you don't have to make any effort they just make the cut.

The frame doesn't bend at all, I thought the blade was flexing, but it is the tension mechanism that disengage.
I tried to move the lever up and down to see if it engages again, but no, it doesn't happen.

I have to start like I am installing a new blade. I notice that when I release the lever and release the knobs that hold the blade, something springs back and the blade comes back straight. It likes there is something stuck internally then when I release everything it goes into position.

I bought a jig saw, and couldn't get it tight enough. So I made a bowsaw. The 12" gramercy one. Works great.
I had considered the knew concepts, but couldn't justify it. A bowsaw is a little more multipurpose. YMMV

Quote:

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The frame doesn't bend at all, I thought the blade was flexing, but it is the tension mechanism that disengage.
I tried to move the lever up and down to see if it engages again, but no, it doesn't happen.

I have to start like I am installing a new blade. I notice that when I release the lever and release the knobs that hold the blade, something springs back and the blade comes back straight. It likes there is something stuck internally then when I release everything it goes into position.

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Hi Fidel

Something wrong there. It sounds like the blade end is not held securely/fully within the blade clamp/holder and then the blade pulls out when the release leaver is tightened. Either the blade has not been fully inserted into the holder before tightening the knob (this can happen), or the blade you are using is too short to provide enough grip area (this can happen as well). Are you using the supplied blade, or another?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sean Hughto

Never had any problem.

Oh, yeah, I use a chisel. :p

https://www.flickr.com/photos/chevy_...57607001006126

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Man, Sean, you are FAST! That went by in the blink of an eye! http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/icons/icon10.png

Regards from Perth

Derek

I have filed teeth into regular jeweler's saw blade chucks with a checkering file to increase the grip. Should not be necessary with an expensive saw,though.