All, I got my CV Cyclone 1800LH today and have seen other users mention issues with fit and finish..... Any Tips on assembly?
Thanks in advance
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All, I got my CV Cyclone 1800LH today and have seen other users mention issues with fit and finish..... Any Tips on assembly?
Thanks in advance
The cone points down.
Just thought I'd get the ball rolling.
Do you have any special space issues or anything? Are you wall mounting it? Stand?
Tell us more and maybe someone will be more helpful than I.
Well that clears up a few things.... the pointy thingy goes down.....got..it. :)
No space issues. I will be wall mounting. I have the filter kits. I have lots of room. Will be using PVC for the ducting.
Ground your PVC, unless you like hair raising experiences and the occasional love zap.
hmmm I have experienced that before.... Worked at a plastics extruder that used PVC for the cutoff scrap and had a static spark jump about a foot (lots of voltage). Copper tinsel was soon purchased for that area. :)
When folks say this they are usually saying provide a path to ground that looks better electrically than you do. I to a piece of insulated 14 ga. wire and ran it about one turn per foot along the ducting from the closest grounding point (the outlet) to the farthest point. At the far end I stuck some foil tape to the concrete in an out of the way spot and clipped the end of the wire to this. No static issues since.Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin Ludwig
I don't want to get started on the grounded or not grounded thread. I am mostly ungrounded with PVC everywhere. The only minor issue was a section of flex pipe was arcing between my band saw and the wire inside the flex pipe. I simply bent the wire so it touches the bandsaw. No more sparks anywhere.
Advice:
Put up the CV, then build a closet around it. It is much easier than trying to install the CV inside a small closet. You only need one easy to access door for the drum. The rest can be semi-permanent walls. You rarely need to get to the filters to clean them. I have never needed to access the motor compartment.
If you have tall ceilings, put the motor mount close to the ceiling. This leaves room for a 55 gallon plastic barrel on caster wheels.
Steve
I have my CV1800 in my walk-out basement shop area (our house is in suburbia hell), and I installed the remote control box from CV. For the second time I came home from work to find it had turned itself on! I suspect a rogue garage door opener from a neighbor. Now I switch it off at the subpanel in the shop. Just an FYI.
Brad, If the remote control unit used for your ClearVue CV1800 is like most they have provided, the units have DIP switches that allow you to change the transmitter and receiver codes so an offending neighbor's garage door remote won't activate your cyclone. DAMHIKT ;-). Of course, the panel option also works, but is easily forgotten.
Thank you for the input Steve. Right now it will be installed inside my shop. Future plans will be to install it in an outside location adjacent to the shop (enclosed). I have 10' 6" ceilings so it will be mounted high (within 1-2" of the ceiling).
Brad, that is good to know. I plan on making my own remote control box using a cheap remote outdoor light system($15) and other components I have I hand. But I live way out in the county and the shop is 200' from the house. I am hoping I will not get any interference. I have had my overhead dust filter turn on from the house. But that is on a switched circuit in the shop so once I leave it is off.
I wired my own remote controller using 2 light switches. One switch provides power to the remote receiver. The cyclone cannot be turned on by any remote without this switch turned on. Other people tie this to their shop lights, so the cyclone is always powered off if the shop lights are off. I have never had issues with stray RF, so I usually leave this switch on unless I am going on vacation.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Swanson
The 2nd switch provides power directly to the relay. It allows me to turn on the cyclone without tracking down any key fobs. I have 2 or 3 key fobs, but sometimes they get moved around from their normal locations.
Steve
I have a magnetic starter that I built for my present system. I will just be upgrading this to allow a RF Remote control to start the DC. I presently have a button that will allow me to turn on and off the DC. My present system has a 3 phase motor on it (Power for the motor is provided by a VFD) the VFD is single phase. So I have all the components so far. I may use your idea of tying it to my shop lights, so it can only be powered when the lights are on. (yes I know. Just because the lights are on.......does not mean anyone is home).