Finishing a wooden bicycle ... spar varnish?

Hi guys, I'm at the final stages of my wooden balance bikes project (I had to make two for my twins).

I bought some "spar" varnish at Lowes for UV protection. Would normal polyurethane or Polycrylic work just as well or better? The bikes would, of course be used outside, but they would be stored in a garage, not outside. I want water protection (since they are bikes!). I don't want the wood to turn silver either, but I don't think they'll be outside for days on end in the sun either. Should I return the spar varnish and just use polyurethane/polycrylic?

The bikes are made with "hardwood" plywood. I think the other veneer is birch.

Thanks!

Vince

Spar varnish is built to be flexible in service, which means it is a little softer against skratches than other varnishes. But maybe that flexibility is exactly what you need on a wooden bike.

Spar varnish also has UV protection, for longer life in the sun. That makes it a little yellower than other varnish. Dunno if that is a concern for your application.

Spar varnishes are flexible and made for outdoors; MARINE varnishes have UV inhibitors added to them.

FYI Urethane resins don't do well outside, they are HIGHLY susceptible to UV damage.

Best option is to go to a marina or boat supply and get a QUALITY NON-POLY marine varnish.

Don't let the $45+ per quart fool you, it is worth EVERY PENNY or more.

Poly will deteriorate very quickly in the sun; then it MUST be stripped. Not so with a good marine varnish, slight scuff sand and recoat every few years.

OK, so I went to "West Marine" and picked up some "Epiphany" (I think) varnish that said "Extra UV Protection". The lady warned me that it goes on very clear, in case I wanted some of that warmer yellow colour. And gave me the choice of the "cheap" brush or the "better brush". I've spent too much time and money to cheap out at this stage!

Thanks for the tips, I'll return my "spar varnish" to Lowes tomorrow!

Vince

Tip for using a good brush...

Dip the brush up to the ferrule in the thinner for the finish you are using BEFORE you start to use the brush. Shake it, so no thinner is dripping from the brush; NOW you are ready to use the brush for finishing.. Clean up will be much easier too.

This might be a great place for West system epoxy. Check out there web site. The epoxy would soak into the wood and give it more strength. Many people use it on cedar strip canoes and bent lamination canoe paddles. I believe they say on the web site to use the 207 hardner for best results on wood. A friend built a few canoes with it and had great success. I use it for making bent laminations for sailboat tiller handles. They do mention using a good UV resuistant spar varnish over the epoxy.

Don't get shell shock when you see the price. It is worth every penny. They have great tech support too.

I hope thathelps.

Make sure you post some pictures it sounds like a uique project.

Quinn

Marine varnish is the way to go, but it can be difficult to get it to go on smoothly. We'd love to see some pictures when you're done.

I'll post pics when they're done. They are knock-offs of the "Like-a-Bike" German running bikes.Or in the US, they are like the "Skuut" bike. My wife was talking to her friend about it and she said to me "You can make some, right?" The answer is "yes, I can make them, but with a full time job and twin two year olds, I can only work on them if you take the kids out to the park and after work when I'm exhausted".

So it's taken quite a while to make them!

Vince

>>>> and picked up some "Epiphany" (I think) varnish that said "Extra UV Protection"

I think you mean "Epifanes". It is arguably the best marine varnish. It should work very well for your application.

Keep in mind that, like all oil based finishes, it takes 3-4 weeks to develop full protective qualities. Try to be gentle with it for the first few weeks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Howard Acheson

>>>> and picked up some "Epiphany" (I think) varnish that said "Extra UV Protection"

I think you mean "Epifanes". It is arguably the best marine varnish. It should work very well for your application.

Keep in mind that, like all oil based finishes, it takes 3-4 weeks to develop full protective qualities. Try to be gentle with it for the first few weeks.

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Heh heh. I don't think a pair of two and half year olds are gonna listen when I tell them to be careful with their new bikes!
I predict having to fix up a lot of scuffs, particularly at the front for when the bikes are laid down.

I was considering adding a wood screw or something at that point so the screw hits the pavement and not the wood, or maybe just using some self-adhesive pad (like under chair leg pads) at those "hard touch down" points.

Vince

OK! The finished products! I did a terrible job on the finish, the final coat had some voids in it and some drip/runs...but I don't think it matters. Also, I worked on it a bit after only 2 days and the finish was still a touch sticky.

In the end, I did 50/50 "sealer coat", then 75/25, then full strength.

http://picasaweb.google.com/Vinceram...eat=directlink

Vince

Happy children are much more important than a perfect finish. Looks like you've done well!

John, I agree. They love the bikes and haven't complained about all the lint in the finish!

I learned a lot in the building process. My brother has hinted that his son might need one (well, he's 6 months at the moment) so I think I can make another bike in much much less time than it took to make these.

Vince

Vince,

We are still waiting for the pictures.

Pictures! Pictures!

Quinn