Durable Finish for Pool Cue Case?

I'm working on a quilted maple and jatoba pool cue carrying case, and am looking for clear coat finish advice. It's already got a couple coats of wet-sanded BLO just out of general principal, but I'm undecided about what to follow the BLO with. I'm looking for a golssy finish, similar to a well-made cue stick. I have available Arm-R-Seal (wipe-on poly), clear gloss lacquer, and water-based Polycrylic at my disposal, and I'm thinking between the three of these, I should have something that'll work.

This is a case I'll be taking to the pool halls, and it'll likely get a few minor bumps and such in the back seat of the car, so I'd like a finish that's relatively durable. I'd like it to look good, since I'll be using it as a "demo model" in the hopes of maybe selling a few to some of the guys on my pool league who spend as much on a cue stick as we would a cabinet saw. (One of the guys on my team shoots with a $3,000 stick. I shoot just as badly with a $100 stick as I do with a $1,000 one...but I'll have the nicest cue case in the league.) ;)

Suggestions?

- Vaughn

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Originally Posted by Vaughn McMillan

Suggestions?
Vaughn

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I don’t have suggestions for the finishing of your pool cue case beyond the BLO base you have already decided upon, but I will suggest that you be cautious in league pool if your opponent does not drink alcohol, ‘cuz *those* guys are really scary.
Best Wishes,
Frank

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Originally Posted by Frank Chaffee

I don’t have suggestions for the finishing of your pool cue case beyond the BLO base you have already decided upon, but I will suggest that you be cautious in league pool if your opponent does not drink alcohol, ‘cuz *those* guys are really scary.
Best Wishes,
Frank

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I quit drinking a few years ago myself, so I guess I'm one of *those* guys too. ;) My pool shooting ranges from scary good to scary bad. :rolleyes:

I should have mentioned that I was also considering just staying with BLO and wax to shine it up. At least the finish would be easy to repair if it got dinged up. So I guess that's another option added to the list. Thanks, Frank. Any more takers?

- Vaughn

I'd think a cue case ought to be like a journeyman's tool case. Paint with grey porch enamel on the outside, and leave the fine woods and inlays and silk velvet lining for the inside.

Vaugh, IMHO, I think I'd one to go one better than just oil/wax, mainly due to the environment you speak of. Once the wax gets worn a bit, the case would be more prone to moisture damage. That being the case, I think I'd opt for the Arm-R-Seal. You can still end up with a real nice looking finish (w/o the "plastic" look) and give it protection. Yes, it will get scratches and such, but unless they go all the way through to the wood, you can still sand it down a bit and give it a fresh coat or two later down the line. :) The other option, which you don't show as "available", would be lacquer. For something the size of a pool cue case, one or two spray bombs of the stuff would do and you have ultimate control of finish, as well as relatively easy and renewable recoats later on. The lacquer would probably give you the best of all worlds, with protection, maintenance and looks. Just my $00.01 (I'm cheap!). :D :cool:

i would like to see the pic of the case when you get done!:D

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Originally Posted by Steve Schoene

I'd think a cue case ought to be like a journeyman's tool case. Paint with grey porch enamel on the outside, and leave the fine woods and inlays and silk velvet lining for the inside.
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Unfortunately, all the nice wood inside will be covered in velvet, felt, or foam padding. This case will fit two or three cues, so it'll be completely lined and have dividers for each of the cue pieces.

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Originally Posted by John Miliunas

The other option, which you don't show as "available", would be lacquer. For something the size of a pool cue case, one or two spray bombs of the stuff would do and you have ultimate control of finish, as well as relatively easy and renewable recoats later on. The lacquer would probably give you the best of all worlds, with protection, maintenance and looks. Just my $00.01 (I'm cheap!). :D :cool:

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John, I've got brush-on lacquer, but hadn't though of spray bombs. Will a spray lacquer get a glass-smooth finish, or does it need to be rubbed out? I'm also assuming a brush-on lacquer can be rubbed out and buffed to get it super-smooth. Is this correct?

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Originally Posted by josh goldsmith

i would like to see the pic of the case when you get done!:D

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Heck, half the reason I'm making the silly thing is to show it off on the Creek. :rolleyes: It's looking pretty nice so far. :D

- Vaughn

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Originally Posted by Vaughn McMillan

John, I've got brush-on lacquer, but hadn't though of spray bombs. Will a spray lacquer get a glass-smooth finish, or does it need to be rubbed out? I'm also assuming a brush-on lacquer can be rubbed out and buffed to get it super-smooth. Is this correct?


- Vaughn

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Vaughn, I'm of the belief that any finish, which is sprayed on, will need to be rubbed out. OTOH, that's the beauty of lacquer; You can really control the amount of sheen you end up with and do so quite easily. Rubbing out lac is probably one of the easiest things you can do. I use the buffing compound (Behlen's I think) from Woodcraft. It's quick, easy and does a wonderful job, even without the use of a powered buffer! Rub it out, a quick wipe and a couple coats of Renaissance wax and it's a thing of beauty!:) Also, FWIW, I've personally had terrible luck with brush-on lacquer for anything past the first coat. It does make for a good build coat but, I usually squirt any/all subsequent coats.:) :cool:

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Originally Posted by John Miliunas

...:) Also, FWIW, I've personally had terrible luck with brush-on lacquer for anything past the first coat. It does make for a good build coat but, I usually squirt any/all subsequent coats.:) :cool:

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That sounds like a plan. I want a pretty substantial build, so I'll start with a brush and end with spray. I'm gonna give the BLO a couple days to settle down before I go to the next step. (I did a second wet-sanded coat last night.)

It dawned on me that back in my mispent youth, I rubbed out lots of lacquer finishes on the fretboards of Fender gutars. I used to do fret leveling jobs (big flat file), and I always crowned the frets by hand-sanding with 600 grit. First time I did a job on a maple Fender fingerboard, I freaked, because the 600 grit left the fingerboard clouded. A quick call to my mentor (the guy whose repairman job I was thrust into suddenly, after he quit) and an introduction to automotive polishing compound, and all was right with the world. (And the guy who owned the Fender.)

Thanks for the help, John.

- Vaughn

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Originally Posted by Vaughn McMillan

That sounds like a plan. I want a pretty substantial build, so I'll start with a brush and end with spray. I'm gonna give the BLO a couple days to settle down before I go to the next step. (I did a second wet-sanded coat last night.)

It dawned on me that back in my mispent youth, I rubbed out lots of lacquer finishes on the fretboards of Fender gutars. I used to do fret leveling jobs (big flat file), and I always crowned the frets by hand-sanding with 600 grit. First time I did a job on a maple Fender fingerboard, I freaked, because the 600 grit left the fingerboard clouded. A quick call to my mentor (the guy whose repairman job I was trust into suddenly, after he quit) and an introduction to automotive polishing compound, and all was right with the world. (And the guy who owned the Fender.)

Thanks for the help, John.

- Vaughn

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No prob, Vaughn! Yup, lacquer is lacquer is lacquer! :) I've used my share of good old Dupont Rubbing Compound "borrowed" from the garage on more than one wood project! :rolleyes: Just be sure to keep the compound relatively wet and you're OK. Looking forward to the pics!!!:) :cool:

If you are not opposed to picking up a new kind of finish you could opt for waterlox original. It will give you a deep, almost wet look with three foam brush coats. It is super durable as well because it was originally (and still is) used for flooring.

Going with what you have I would opt for a rubbed out lacquer because it looks great and repairs are easy. A good rubbed out lacquer finish is just like a mirror. It isn't as durable but people would be IMPRESSED.

Joe

Thanks for the suggestion, Joe. I've never used Waterlox, but the deep, wet look is what I'm after. (Like a pool cue.) I'll make it a point to get some next time I have a chance.

For this particular project, I've already got a few coats of brushed-on lacquer, and it's already looking pretty sweet. I also learned tonight that a very soft touch with the extra-thin cabinet scraper from Lee Valley works great for knocking down the nubbies (and removing a couple errant brush bristles that got embedded). The scraper also speeds up leveling out the build. I think I'll continue with the lacquer for this project...I agree once it's built up and rubbed out properly it should look like glass. Still, I suspect I'll be making more of these in the future, and I'll give the Waterlox a try.

Thanks again -

- Vaughn